Okay can anyone tell me how to adjust the side stays on my Mac 25.. If i put them in the slot that reaches the chain plate it seems too loose. The next slot won't reach and I am afraid to put it in the next slot with the mast down and then try and raise it if it is too short or too tight.
Side Stays
- Thread starter Capt Strapfoots
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I use a couple of nailsets or small screwdrivers to advance the adjusters.
Have you read the manual?
Have you read the manual?
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I'll try this one.
The basic rig of our fractional boats is the forestay and upper sidestays. There are wire tension figures for these wires published for your boat in particular, and also maximum usable tensions by wire diameter. For example, if you wish to use a higher tension for competition, your overall tensions will exceed what a family outing tension would be....
After the upper 3 wires are tensioned correctly, the 2 lower sidestays are next. These wires serve to straighten the mast, as the upper 3 wires may have compressed and bowed the mast forward between the deck and the hounds (where the forestay attaches to the mast). The lower sidestays allow the mast to be straightened. No particular tension is used here- if the mast happened to be straight after tuning the upper 3 wires, the lower sidestays would have zero tension.
Finally we reach the backstay. One intent of a fractional rig is to be able to bend the mast aft with the backstay (which flattens the main). If you do not have the ability to adjust the backstay tension while sailing (with a block and tackle), then the approximate backstay tension should leave the mast straight ABOVE the hounds, with the least amount of slack.
When I say the mast should be straight, I mean that one should lie on deck and sight up the mast along the aft slot in the mast. Of course, on the initial tensioning of the rig, the mast should be equal in the side-to-side dimension.
The mast is strongest when it is straight. The stresses on our rigs tend to drive the mast down into the deck. The rake of our masts are pretty much determined by the length of our forestay, once it is cut to length. The forestay turnbuckle determines the rake adjustment (if any), and then only if the sidestays can accommodate the extra length or shortening.
The basic rig of our fractional boats is the forestay and upper sidestays. There are wire tension figures for these wires published for your boat in particular, and also maximum usable tensions by wire diameter. For example, if you wish to use a higher tension for competition, your overall tensions will exceed what a family outing tension would be....
After the upper 3 wires are tensioned correctly, the 2 lower sidestays are next. These wires serve to straighten the mast, as the upper 3 wires may have compressed and bowed the mast forward between the deck and the hounds (where the forestay attaches to the mast). The lower sidestays allow the mast to be straightened. No particular tension is used here- if the mast happened to be straight after tuning the upper 3 wires, the lower sidestays would have zero tension.
Finally we reach the backstay. One intent of a fractional rig is to be able to bend the mast aft with the backstay (which flattens the main). If you do not have the ability to adjust the backstay tension while sailing (with a block and tackle), then the approximate backstay tension should leave the mast straight ABOVE the hounds, with the least amount of slack.
When I say the mast should be straight, I mean that one should lie on deck and sight up the mast along the aft slot in the mast. Of course, on the initial tensioning of the rig, the mast should be equal in the side-to-side dimension.
The mast is strongest when it is straight. The stresses on our rigs tend to drive the mast down into the deck. The rake of our masts are pretty much determined by the length of our forestay, once it is cut to length. The forestay turnbuckle determines the rake adjustment (if any), and then only if the sidestays can accommodate the extra length or shortening.
They're right here on this very site:
http://macgregor.sailboatowners.com...&Itemid=272&brand=4&id=155&model=25&page=list
http://macgregor.sailboatowners.com...&Itemid=272&brand=4&id=155&model=25&page=list
Actually the adjustments on the plate are what they call vernier. They can be adjusted pretty fine. They are made so the next hole up will align with just a small adjustment. It is a pain and the cannot be tightened at the side stays. They are tightened by adjusting the fore stay turn buckle. It is more easily done if you have a Johnson Leaver that tightens the fore stay by camming over the leaver arm. You can more easily and quickly release the tension so you can adjust the side stay verniers and the retighten just as easily. The leaver runs about $50 and is worth every penny.
For a little more money you can replace the verniers with turnbuckles. Then you can adjust side stays without having to release and retension fore stay Johnson Leaver. You can find the 1/4" turnbuckles on Ebay and they too are worth every penny.
To get a precise adjustment you will want to buy a Loos Gauge Model A. The gauge accommodates two cable sizes match the Mac 25. I use to set it to the lowest setting on the chart and it was way tighter than I used to guestimated with out it.
Johnson Leaver
Loos Gauge http://www.ebay.com/itm/Loos-Tensio...t-91-tune-your-sailboat-rigging-/230828960335
For a little more money you can replace the verniers with turnbuckles. Then you can adjust side stays without having to release and retension fore stay Johnson Leaver. You can find the 1/4" turnbuckles on Ebay and they too are worth every penny.
To get a precise adjustment you will want to buy a Loos Gauge Model A. The gauge accommodates two cable sizes match the Mac 25. I use to set it to the lowest setting on the chart and it was way tighter than I used to guestimated with out it.
Johnson Leaver
Loos Gauge http://www.ebay.com/itm/Loos-Tensio...t-91-tune-your-sailboat-rigging-/230828960335
Like Justsomeguy says, his link will get you to the Mac 25 owners manual. This manual assumes you know alot about the boat. I found that the owners manuals for the newer Mac 26s are alot more informative. I reccommend the 26C manual. Go to the top of this pag tool bar and open tab" Boat Info". Then you can select all sorts of boat manuals. Select the 26 and look it over. Stay adjustments comes just after the raising the mast section. You can read about the channels are designed as "verniers" with 1/8" increments. Move your pin up or down to find the closest matching holes.
Problem I have the most difficulty with is getting the locking rings started through the pin hole.
Problem I have the most difficulty with is getting the locking rings started through the pin hole.
Well, I'm led to believe that Capt. Strapfoots has owned his Mac for approximately 8 years...!
Yup I don't usually unhook the bottom of the stays when I lower the mast my son helped last time and unhooked it...
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