I'm looking to see if anyone knows what tension should be on my shrouds. I have a 1996 Hunter 23.5 and would like to tune my rig in. I looked in the owners manual and can't find it,I also called hunter service but that's a joke.
Shroud tension
- Thread starter nbabic
- Start date
- Status
If you have any issues with Hunter service, I would suggest that you send an email. I have never failed to get a response from them, but I realize that they do not have 12 operators standing by to answer my call. I have left messages or sent emails.
You may also let the operator know that you have tried to contact them and see if that may expedite the call.
You may also let the operator know that you have tried to contact them and see if that may expedite the call.
Your owner's manual will say something like with the mast centered, adjust the uppers until "tight" ,then adjust the lowers until "snug" and that the lowers should be less tight than the uppers. Below is a pretty good description of mast tuning, and the method I use for mine:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityou...ing/tuning.htm
Keep in mind, you don't have a backstay, so the rake will be set by the forestay only. You may want to check with Hunter to see what the rake is supposed to be. I seem to remember 6-10" being about right.
I've also never had any issues with Hunter service. Last time I sent an email, I had an answer within an hour or 2.
Note: the above link seems to be broken. You may have to go here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
At bottom of sidebar under "more" you will find a tab for "tuning tips" and you can follow that to "tuning the mast".
I noticed a discrepancy between the link I posted and the one that Mike referenced below as far as how tight the leeward side stays should be when sailing. Do we have a tie-breaker??
Scott
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityou...ing/tuning.htm
Keep in mind, you don't have a backstay, so the rake will be set by the forestay only. You may want to check with Hunter to see what the rake is supposed to be. I seem to remember 6-10" being about right.
I've also never had any issues with Hunter service. Last time I sent an email, I had an answer within an hour or 2.
Note: the above link seems to be broken. You may have to go here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
At bottom of sidebar under "more" you will find a tab for "tuning tips" and you can follow that to "tuning the mast".
I noticed a discrepancy between the link I posted and the one that Mike referenced below as far as how tight the leeward side stays should be when sailing. Do we have a tie-breaker??
Scott
Last edited:
The basic guideline is to keep tightening the stays just enough that there is no slack in the leeward stays when you're on a reach in a stiff wind.
A Loos gauge removes all doubt that everything is equally tensioned but it's not a tool that you can't live without if your just daysailing. The Loos gauge site explains it better. Look under each of the 3 main tabs for a good explanation here:
http://www.loosnaples.com/tension-gauges/91-model-a
Mike
A Loos gauge removes all doubt that everything is equally tensioned but it's not a tool that you can't live without if your just daysailing. The Loos gauge site explains it better. Look under each of the 3 main tabs for a good explanation here:
http://www.loosnaples.com/tension-gauges/91-model-a
Mike
I'll go with Soling42 here-- and the Loos people are the best. A few comments though--
Being a guitar player, I tune rigs harmonically. As long as there is sufficient tension, make corresponding sides sound the same. Is one side flat? --bring it up.
The Beaufort Scale says that rigging will whistle and hum at 22-27 knots of wind. If the rigging makes much vibrating or noise before that, it's too loose. A person should not be able to deflect much more than an inch or so by grabbing it for support.
The headstay should not sag. With a furler this tautness is hard to attain. Make sure the forestay is tight enough to facilitate headsail tension and match the rest to it.
Do not fight against anything-- nothing should seem impossible to move. If you can't get the mast to move back with the aft lowers, maybe the forward lowers are too tight. Look around. Make everything match.
Tune lowers before uppers. Tune the headstays before backstays.
Know the designed rake ratio and strive for it. (Headstays with furlers often foil you in this.)
Do the tuning in the water with the boat lightly loaded and level.
Make exposed threads of turnbuckles match. Don't have too much showing on one and not enough on another.
Eyeball it regularly, for column, lean, and rake. Don't ever go too far without looking up.
A compression post or deck structure in poor shape will make all these efforts only a disaster. Ditto for chainplates. Inspect all this stuff first. Living in denial (i.e., impatience to go sailing) will not ameliorate it.
I do work as a professional rigger and have never had an overly-loose or overly-tight rig to my credit and have never seen one go by the board... and this is how I do it. Take care and good luck.
Being a guitar player, I tune rigs harmonically. As long as there is sufficient tension, make corresponding sides sound the same. Is one side flat? --bring it up.
The Beaufort Scale says that rigging will whistle and hum at 22-27 knots of wind. If the rigging makes much vibrating or noise before that, it's too loose. A person should not be able to deflect much more than an inch or so by grabbing it for support.
The headstay should not sag. With a furler this tautness is hard to attain. Make sure the forestay is tight enough to facilitate headsail tension and match the rest to it.
Do not fight against anything-- nothing should seem impossible to move. If you can't get the mast to move back with the aft lowers, maybe the forward lowers are too tight. Look around. Make everything match.
Tune lowers before uppers. Tune the headstays before backstays.
Know the designed rake ratio and strive for it. (Headstays with furlers often foil you in this.)
Do the tuning in the water with the boat lightly loaded and level.
Make exposed threads of turnbuckles match. Don't have too much showing on one and not enough on another.
Eyeball it regularly, for column, lean, and rake. Don't ever go too far without looking up.
A compression post or deck structure in poor shape will make all these efforts only a disaster. Ditto for chainplates. Inspect all this stuff first. Living in denial (i.e., impatience to go sailing) will not ameliorate it.
I do work as a professional rigger and have never had an overly-loose or overly-tight rig to my credit and have never seen one go by the board... and this is how I do it. Take care and good luck.
- Status