Hi All: My 376 shower drains into a sump, which is pumped out by manually turning on the pump. I have 2 problems........ First, the sump dosen't hold a full showers worth of water, which means I have to lean out, turn on the pump, wait until the sump is empty, then turn the pump off. Then do a repeat performance if the sump fills up again. Second, the hole in the side of the sump where the wires and the pump discharge come through and attach to the pump cannot be adequately sealed to prevent shower water from leaking through and into the bilge. Not good ! Has anyone devised an alternative to disposing of the shower water ? I was considering using the "wire hole" as a simple drain somehow draining directly into a container that I would place in the bilge, then pumping out from there. Bit not sure exactly how to accomplish this as underneath the shower area is virtually inaccesable. Anyway, any thoughts ???? Jeff
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Arthur Boas
Easy answer
Install a Bilge Buddy electronic water sensing switch in the sump collector, and it will turn on the pump automatically when water is present.
Install a Bilge Buddy electronic water sensing switch in the sump collector, and it will turn on the pump automatically when water is present.
get a shower sump.
Jeff: Not familiar with your shower arrangement but there are some shower sumps and special pumps that can be attached to the shower drain. They can be setup to pump the water into the sump and then discharged overboard based on the float switch (just like your regular bilge)
Jeff: Not familiar with your shower arrangement but there are some shower sumps and special pumps that can be attached to the shower drain. They can be setup to pump the water into the sump and then discharged overboard based on the float switch (just like your regular bilge)
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Ed Schenck
One more thought.
Hi Jeff. If that is the original setup then it is probable the pump is the kind that can run dry. So you turn it on before you start to shower. Best bet as Steve and Arthur have pointed out is an automatic switch. Just like on my "old" H37C.
Hi Jeff. If that is the original setup then it is probable the pump is the kind that can run dry. So you turn it on before you start to shower. Best bet as Steve and Arthur have pointed out is an automatic switch. Just like on my "old" H37C.
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Russell Egge
We have a switch in the head on our 376
On our 376 there is a shower pump switch above the sink. Through the breaker, take a shower, and when you need it, turn on the switch to activate the pump. Long story about how I found it (almost rewired the pump) Russell S/V Allie Kat
On our 376 there is a shower pump switch above the sink. Through the breaker, take a shower, and when you need it, turn on the switch to activate the pump. Long story about how I found it (almost rewired the pump) Russell S/V Allie Kat
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Fred McNulty
repair or replace the float switch
Our 1998 376 has a float switch in the shower sump and the pump is wired directly to the electrical panel. We have routed the A/C condensation to this sump to keep the bilge dry, so the switch is on all the time, but it only pumps when necessary. It is hard to believe a shower sump pump would be designed to be operated only manually. We had problems after about one year of liveaboard use and had to replace the float switch but have had no further problems.
Our 1998 376 has a float switch in the shower sump and the pump is wired directly to the electrical panel. We have routed the A/C condensation to this sump to keep the bilge dry, so the switch is on all the time, but it only pumps when necessary. It is hard to believe a shower sump pump would be designed to be operated only manually. We had problems after about one year of liveaboard use and had to replace the float switch but have had no further problems.
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Greg aboard 'BlueBerry'
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Jeff Bacon
Compilation of all responses
Thanks to all who responded. I appreciate it. Seems like the consensus is to utilize a float switch, which, I suppose, only makes sense. My original thought was that the sump was too shallow to utilize a switch. Either it would be cycling on/off all the time, or the water would fill to the "Hole where the wires run through" and empty in to the bilge because the float could not be adjusted to come on soon enough. More measureing will be needed. Thanks again.......Jeff
Thanks to all who responded. I appreciate it. Seems like the consensus is to utilize a float switch, which, I suppose, only makes sense. My original thought was that the sump was too shallow to utilize a switch. Either it would be cycling on/off all the time, or the water would fill to the "Hole where the wires run through" and empty in to the bilge because the float could not be adjusted to come on soon enough. More measureing will be needed. Thanks again.......Jeff
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Bill Sizemore
Another option
Sounds like your shower sump is similar to our's on our '87 L37. We have a dedicated sump pump with a float switch activated pump under the shower grate. However, our pump switch is wired to the fresh water breaker on the electric panel. When we switch on our water pump breaker, the shower sump pump is connected to power. But, the pump can only be activated by the float switch when water is in the shower sump well. Works great so far, and the water never reaches the level of the wire hole you referenced. If you choose this route, all you'll need to do is wire your float switch to the fresh water breaker. If you have only a fresh water pump and a dedicated shower sump pump on one breaker, it shouldn't be so much to overload the breaker. When not in use... no different than switching on your fresh water pump.
Sounds like your shower sump is similar to our's on our '87 L37. We have a dedicated sump pump with a float switch activated pump under the shower grate. However, our pump switch is wired to the fresh water breaker on the electric panel. When we switch on our water pump breaker, the shower sump pump is connected to power. But, the pump can only be activated by the float switch when water is in the shower sump well. Works great so far, and the water never reaches the level of the wire hole you referenced. If you choose this route, all you'll need to do is wire your float switch to the fresh water breaker. If you have only a fresh water pump and a dedicated shower sump pump on one breaker, it shouldn't be so much to overload the breaker. When not in use... no different than switching on your fresh water pump.
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Dakota Jim
Don't use bilge
Suggest you use the Beneteau solution and install a pump from the shower drain directly outside (vacuum breaker loop or above water line). Unless your shower drains better than mine, such a solution makes draining much faster, and keeps body oils out of the bilge (smell). Requires water proof toggle switch installed in the shower.
Suggest you use the Beneteau solution and install a pump from the shower drain directly outside (vacuum breaker loop or above water line). Unless your shower drains better than mine, such a solution makes draining much faster, and keeps body oils out of the bilge (smell). Requires water proof toggle switch installed in the shower.
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Russell Egge
Our 376 came with a toggle switch, check yours!!!
Not sure if all 376's came this way, but ours has a water proof toggle switch in the head above the sink to control the shower sump pump. Last year I couldn't get the shower pump to work after spring cleaning. Was on Block Island and ready to replace the pump. When I traced the wires up behind the sink they came to the back of a switch I had never noticed (although very visable when using the sink). Sure enough there was a swithch for the shower sump and it had been turned off during spring cleaning. My kids laughed at me for the rest of the trip. Take a look before you start replacing the pump. I like the idea of not having the shower sump empty into the bilge. Another project on the list. RRegge S/V Allie Kat
Not sure if all 376's came this way, but ours has a water proof toggle switch in the head above the sink to control the shower sump pump. Last year I couldn't get the shower pump to work after spring cleaning. Was on Block Island and ready to replace the pump. When I traced the wires up behind the sink they came to the back of a switch I had never noticed (although very visable when using the sink). Sure enough there was a swithch for the shower sump and it had been turned off during spring cleaning. My kids laughed at me for the rest of the trip. Take a look before you start replacing the pump. I like the idea of not having the shower sump empty into the bilge. Another project on the list. RRegge S/V Allie Kat
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P Kelly
sump water
Interesting post about the shower sump, especially since our "96/376 has the switch over sink. Never knew it could pump dry, thanks for that infor, now will check to see if ours is a "dry pump model" (how can I tell?). My problem has been that after pumping a good amount of water back flushes back into the sump well. It is that portion that is below waterline exit thru hull. I now sponge out this excess but know there must be a better way. Any help will be greatly apprecisted. P Kelly/Orion/376
Interesting post about the shower sump, especially since our "96/376 has the switch over sink. Never knew it could pump dry, thanks for that infor, now will check to see if ours is a "dry pump model" (how can I tell?). My problem has been that after pumping a good amount of water back flushes back into the sump well. It is that portion that is below waterline exit thru hull. I now sponge out this excess but know there must be a better way. Any help will be greatly apprecisted. P Kelly/Orion/376
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Mike D
376 has a float
Jeff, WOW. I didn't know there are so many different arrangements of the shower sump on a 376. Ours has a swith on the main 12 volt panel located at the NAV station labeled "Shower Sump". The shower sump has an automatic float switch built in that pumps the water on demand. We are in a marina. The only problem is to remember to treat the water in the sump or flush it out occasionally if the onboard shower is not utilized. It can get really gross! good luck afloat, (I couldn't resist) Mike D
Jeff, WOW. I didn't know there are so many different arrangements of the shower sump on a 376. Ours has a swith on the main 12 volt panel located at the NAV station labeled "Shower Sump". The shower sump has an automatic float switch built in that pumps the water on demand. We are in a marina. The only problem is to remember to treat the water in the sump or flush it out occasionally if the onboard shower is not utilized. It can get really gross! good luck afloat, (I couldn't resist) Mike D
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