My wife and I are completely refurbishing a 1979 Hunter 30, including all interior wood. Nothing had been done to the boat for at least two years prior to our purchasing it in September, so there was quite a bit of rot and mildew due to leaking chainplates, etc. After plenty of Simple Green, bleach, TSP and a couple of full dumpsters, we are ready to start rebuilding the interior and are interested in other people's experience. This may be an old topic for others, but it's new for us. Any thoughts? Jim Arthur
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Sean Herron...herrons@telus.net
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Bob Howie
Great Project!!
Jim, Marine ply is a good way to go and it's fairly stable. I have photos of my 79h30 I'd be glad to send on stuff I've done inside and I would be glad to offer any advice I can to help your project go along. My regular email is bhowie@txucom.net and it's easier to use for sending files. Let me know if I can help. You've got a great boat and it's gonna be a fun project. Best regards, Bob
Jim, Marine ply is a good way to go and it's fairly stable. I have photos of my 79h30 I'd be glad to send on stuff I've done inside and I would be glad to offer any advice I can to help your project go along. My regular email is bhowie@txucom.net and it's easier to use for sending files. Let me know if I can help. You've got a great boat and it's gonna be a fun project. Best regards, Bob
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tom
marine grade.....
definitely go with the marine grade. you should be able to get something with a veneer of some sort, but you really should be good with wood using veneer..and try to use stainless hardware whenever possible..amazing how fast that rusty stuff shows up...
definitely go with the marine grade. you should be able to get something with a veneer of some sort, but you really should be good with wood using veneer..and try to use stainless hardware whenever possible..amazing how fast that rusty stuff shows up...
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David Guthridge
5/8 marine ply is the best weight.
I am completely remodeling the interior of my '78 Pearson 26. Use 5/8 marine grade plywood finished on both sides for most pieces, Mahogany stain, and 4 coats of gloss or satin gloss varnish. The first coat light and subsequent coats heavier. Wet sand between coats. Also use all brass screws with gromets to give it a finished nautical look. The edge of the plywood can be covered with an iron-on veneer. Does very well. For grab rails and trim work use solid mahogany or teak. Many parts can be bought ready made.
I am completely remodeling the interior of my '78 Pearson 26. Use 5/8 marine grade plywood finished on both sides for most pieces, Mahogany stain, and 4 coats of gloss or satin gloss varnish. The first coat light and subsequent coats heavier. Wet sand between coats. Also use all brass screws with gromets to give it a finished nautical look. The edge of the plywood can be covered with an iron-on veneer. Does very well. For grab rails and trim work use solid mahogany or teak. Many parts can be bought ready made.
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christopher
the best proven material
ten coats of old style creosote has always proved to be successful in my experience. prevents rot.
ten coats of old style creosote has always proved to be successful in my experience. prevents rot.
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Gerry
Another alternitave
There are several things to consider when choosing a material. What are you using it for and is it going to be seen are just two of the major items. The difference between marine plywood and regular plywood is that there are no air gaps in marine plywood where regular plywood may have a gap where a knothole in the inner layers of wood may be. These gaps make the plywood weaker in that area and if you are using it for support bulkheads or decking I wouldn’t recommend regular plywood for those applications where strength is a consideration. However, if the plywood is mainly cosmetic or superior strength is not a consideration is not a issue then regular plywood will do just fine and keep your cost down. For cosmetic applications, use “good 2 sides” plywood. Its more expensive but saves you a lot of work to make it look good. To finish the edges where it can be seen, buy a board of the same material as the plywood ( oak for oak, pine for pine etc.) and cut a thin strip, approximately ¼ inch and nail it to the edge of the plywood. This will hide the fact that it is plywood. Then all you have to do is finish sand it flush. There are many stains that will make the wood look however you want it to look. For example red oak stain and pine looks like teak. Look at your local hardware store. They usually have in the stain isle a board showing how stains will look on different woods. Polyurethane is a godsend. Several coats of polyurethane will protect any wood you choose and prevent warping and other water related damage to wood. Think of it like plastic coating your wood. I have done extensive changes to every boat I have owned, my wife says its because I buy junk, I prefer to think of it as a jewel in the rough. I hope this helps you.
There are several things to consider when choosing a material. What are you using it for and is it going to be seen are just two of the major items. The difference between marine plywood and regular plywood is that there are no air gaps in marine plywood where regular plywood may have a gap where a knothole in the inner layers of wood may be. These gaps make the plywood weaker in that area and if you are using it for support bulkheads or decking I wouldn’t recommend regular plywood for those applications where strength is a consideration. However, if the plywood is mainly cosmetic or superior strength is not a consideration is not a issue then regular plywood will do just fine and keep your cost down. For cosmetic applications, use “good 2 sides” plywood. Its more expensive but saves you a lot of work to make it look good. To finish the edges where it can be seen, buy a board of the same material as the plywood ( oak for oak, pine for pine etc.) and cut a thin strip, approximately ¼ inch and nail it to the edge of the plywood. This will hide the fact that it is plywood. Then all you have to do is finish sand it flush. There are many stains that will make the wood look however you want it to look. For example red oak stain and pine looks like teak. Look at your local hardware store. They usually have in the stain isle a board showing how stains will look on different woods. Polyurethane is a godsend. Several coats of polyurethane will protect any wood you choose and prevent warping and other water related damage to wood. Think of it like plastic coating your wood. I have done extensive changes to every boat I have owned, my wife says its because I buy junk, I prefer to think of it as a jewel in the rough. I hope this helps you.
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Bob Howie
Creosote?!
C'mon, Chris! Creosote?!...for a sailboat interior? Besides, it's pretty dadgum hard to find creosote anymore given its environmental problems. But, really...creosote? Glad I don't crew on your boat!!
C'mon, Chris! Creosote?!...for a sailboat interior? Besides, it's pretty dadgum hard to find creosote anymore given its environmental problems. But, really...creosote? Glad I don't crew on your boat!!
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jack bolen
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George
Knowledge
Looks like Gerry is the only one who knows anything about plywood. I would follow his advise.
Looks like Gerry is the only one who knows anything about plywood. I would follow his advise.
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Bob
David makes good points,
but I have found that if you want to finish with a satin polyurethane varnish, you want to build the previous coats with gloss - satin on satin doesn't finish as well and often will look "streaky." Teak veneer is available, and if you have the means to apply it, could make marine plywood look like the high-priced stuff.
but I have found that if you want to finish with a satin polyurethane varnish, you want to build the previous coats with gloss - satin on satin doesn't finish as well and often will look "streaky." Teak veneer is available, and if you have the means to apply it, could make marine plywood look like the high-priced stuff.
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ted
yeaaaaah - creosote
wonderful stuff. kills all known bugs and diseases including ringworm. used it for killing the latter on myself. ever seen a rotted telegraph/power pole. think about it.
wonderful stuff. kills all known bugs and diseases including ringworm. used it for killing the latter on myself. ever seen a rotted telegraph/power pole. think about it.
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Jim Arthur
Great Ideas - Thanks for your response
Well, I've made my decision. Creosote would have probably worked well in the old "Jack Tar" British Navy, but somehow, I don't think my wife would tolerate it! My marina, Coan River Marina, is able to get 5/8" 4 x 8 marine grade plywood for about $67 a sheet. Since I'm planning to laminate most surfaces, I felt this was the best way to go. Although the cost is slightly higher than standard exterior grade plywood, I feel it's probably worth it in the long run. Thanks again for everybody's comments. They really help. Jim
Well, I've made my decision. Creosote would have probably worked well in the old "Jack Tar" British Navy, but somehow, I don't think my wife would tolerate it! My marina, Coan River Marina, is able to get 5/8" 4 x 8 marine grade plywood for about $67 a sheet. Since I'm planning to laminate most surfaces, I felt this was the best way to go. Although the cost is slightly higher than standard exterior grade plywood, I feel it's probably worth it in the long run. Thanks again for everybody's comments. They really help. Jim
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