There's more
There's always more than one way to skin the cat. With the 1/2" Catalina vent stanchions you can make them into a 1" but it takes a little work.
1) Remove stanchion and flip upside down. Cut the 1/2" od vent tube off the stanchion base & flush.
2) Make a jig out of plywwod and bolt it to the base of the stanchion using the four bolt holes.
3) Take a 7/8" hole saw and when it is perfectly centered over the 1" stanchion drill through the wood jig and into the stanchion base plate. The jig will keep the hole saw centered and is required because you won't have a pilot hole to keep the hole saw from wandering. This MUST be perfectly centered so as not to affect the welds on the 1" stanchions base plate.
4) Go to your nearest marine canvas shop and ask for a 4" long scrap piece of 1" OD stainless tube.
5) Take the entire unit to your local welder, who does stainless, and have him weld the 4" long by 1" OD tube to the bottom of the stanchion.
6) Drill a couple of strategically placed vent holes in the stanchion the same diameter as the original vent hole but NOT so near it as to weaken the stanchion by removing too much material in one plane.
7) Drill the 1/2" deck hole to a 1 1/8" OD, seal the core with epoxy and re-install the stanchion with 1" tubing.
While this does nothing to increase the tapping on your holding tank it does get you to a 1" ID vent tube. Personally I do not like any vents near the max beam of the vessel on the hull sides as they tend to take on water when heeled and waves lash the hull.
I have had 5/8" vents on most all my boats and they are certainly borderline at best for air exchange and venting purposes especially if one accidentally over fills a holding tank..
Ron's assertion that builders know what they are doing and Peggy does not is one we all know to be way off base. I have seen sooooo many cut corners on boats over the years it's tough to put trust into much of what I see these days. While the ABYC standards have recently made things better there are still many corners cut in the name of savings..
Plywood in keel stubs, hollow rudder stock, incorrect rudder stock, screwed in bulkheads, balsa core under high load fittings, portlights held in by nothing more than silicone, ribbed bilge pump hose with LONG runs and high head pressure, no sea strainers, 2 micron primary fuel filters, ball valves threaded directly to a thru-hull, lack of limber holes in areas where water can become trapped, lack of sufficiently sized limber holes, cored stringers with un-sealed limber holes, lack of mast grounding, bow cleats with very thin fender washers used as backing plates, lead acid batteries without a battery box, lack of any sort of real rudder bearing on boats over 30 feet, no siphon breaks on heads, no siphon breaks on bilge discharge hoses, cockpit drains to small to effectively empty the cockpit in short order, non-below water rated hose connected directly to thru-hulls, cast iron keels on 250k+ boats etc. etc. etc.. These are all things I have seen, and there are many more examples out there Most of them that I listed were on boats newer than 2000....
Peggy, like Calder, Steve D'Antonio, and a few others, push the indusrty to do what's right but the cost factors force builders to cut corners. Something like a 5/8" arguably undersized vent hose will never come back to bite the builder in the butt because there are too many other variables involved in the stink factor to which the builder can point fingers at and try to shift blame. If my tank was tapped for 1" I'd increase my vent hose in a heart beat..
There's always more than one way to skin the cat. With the 1/2" Catalina vent stanchions you can make them into a 1" but it takes a little work.
1) Remove stanchion and flip upside down. Cut the 1/2" od vent tube off the stanchion base & flush.
2) Make a jig out of plywwod and bolt it to the base of the stanchion using the four bolt holes.
3) Take a 7/8" hole saw and when it is perfectly centered over the 1" stanchion drill through the wood jig and into the stanchion base plate. The jig will keep the hole saw centered and is required because you won't have a pilot hole to keep the hole saw from wandering. This MUST be perfectly centered so as not to affect the welds on the 1" stanchions base plate.
4) Go to your nearest marine canvas shop and ask for a 4" long scrap piece of 1" OD stainless tube.
5) Take the entire unit to your local welder, who does stainless, and have him weld the 4" long by 1" OD tube to the bottom of the stanchion.
6) Drill a couple of strategically placed vent holes in the stanchion the same diameter as the original vent hole but NOT so near it as to weaken the stanchion by removing too much material in one plane.
7) Drill the 1/2" deck hole to a 1 1/8" OD, seal the core with epoxy and re-install the stanchion with 1" tubing.
While this does nothing to increase the tapping on your holding tank it does get you to a 1" ID vent tube. Personally I do not like any vents near the max beam of the vessel on the hull sides as they tend to take on water when heeled and waves lash the hull.
I have had 5/8" vents on most all my boats and they are certainly borderline at best for air exchange and venting purposes especially if one accidentally over fills a holding tank..
Ron's assertion that builders know what they are doing and Peggy does not is one we all know to be way off base. I have seen sooooo many cut corners on boats over the years it's tough to put trust into much of what I see these days. While the ABYC standards have recently made things better there are still many corners cut in the name of savings..
Plywood in keel stubs, hollow rudder stock, incorrect rudder stock, screwed in bulkheads, balsa core under high load fittings, portlights held in by nothing more than silicone, ribbed bilge pump hose with LONG runs and high head pressure, no sea strainers, 2 micron primary fuel filters, ball valves threaded directly to a thru-hull, lack of limber holes in areas where water can become trapped, lack of sufficiently sized limber holes, cored stringers with un-sealed limber holes, lack of mast grounding, bow cleats with very thin fender washers used as backing plates, lead acid batteries without a battery box, lack of any sort of real rudder bearing on boats over 30 feet, no siphon breaks on heads, no siphon breaks on bilge discharge hoses, cockpit drains to small to effectively empty the cockpit in short order, non-below water rated hose connected directly to thru-hulls, cast iron keels on 250k+ boats etc. etc. etc.. These are all things I have seen, and there are many more examples out there Most of them that I listed were on boats newer than 2000....
Peggy, like Calder, Steve D'Antonio, and a few others, push the indusrty to do what's right but the cost factors force builders to cut corners. Something like a 5/8" arguably undersized vent hose will never come back to bite the builder in the butt because there are too many other variables involved in the stink factor to which the builder can point fingers at and try to shift blame. If my tank was tapped for 1" I'd increase my vent hose in a heart beat..
