Should 23.5 bow touch trailer roller?

[waterman30]

Hi - I just bought a 93 h23.5 and I have a bow roller on the trailer but it doesn't come close to contacting the boat. Looking on Google I see some 23.5 trailers with no roller at all and most with rollers do not make contact. It does make contact with the bow pad. Thanks!

 

[Sailavie1]

I have a H25 (2008) and pull my bow up the the front roller. I also added a roller under the bow which helps support (lift) and guide the bow during loading. On steep ramps, the bow is lower than the front roller due to the angle of the trailer vs level boat.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

When you put the boat on the trailer, get it as close you can to the roller. You will not be able to get it all the way up but pull the boat out, drop the mast and secure it. Then do the bump by pulling forward and brake. The boat moves on the bunk boards which you may have to do several times. Then when up to the winch stand bow roller , secure the boat. After 10-20 miles down the road recheck the boat being lashed down to the trailer as things have loosened up particularly at the winch stand. Otherwise you may not have enough tongue weight on the trailer allowing the boat and trailer to sway which can be serious if there are no trailer brakes.
Take a picture of the roller on the trailer so I know what you have. Former Hunter dealer.

 

[Daveinet]

The first thing you need to do is load the boat and then measure your tongue weight. It should be around 10% of your total trailer weight. If it is too light, then move the boat forward till it is correct. Once it is correct, then move the arm back to the boat so the bow rests on the roller and bolt it down. Make sure the weight of the boat is resting on the keel rollers. Bunks are there only to stabilize the boat, not to support weight.

 

[Rick Webb]

Yes, and you'll be amazed at what a difference it makes.

Lots of info in the archives here on how to get it up there. Easiest is to bump the brakes and let it slide up there. I have tensioned the strap then pushed and wiggled the boat from the stern to move it up an inch. Lather, rinse, repeat until you get it all the way up into the chock. Ivory liquid on the bunks before you load the boat helps to let it slide forward. I've now put the plastic bunk covers on my trailer and that makes it doable quickly.

Please make sure you secure the boat to the trailer when you realize how easy the boat moves on the trailer you begin to understand how easy it is for the boat to come off the trailer.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@Daveinet

The Hunter water ballast along with others for example MacGregor water ballast do not have keels which rest on a keel tray. There is a tray to support the center board which weighs appx 105-110 lbs The weight of the boats are supported by longer bunk boards with added supports. Rollers to support theses type of boats are not recommended for two reasons. First the hull will become indented. Second the water tank attachment to the hull will be broken.

suggest using the term winch stand vs arm as it will be confusing to new sailors. You are absolutely correct about 10% of total weight of boat motor and trailer be on the tongue particularly if you do not have any trailer brakes.

@Rick Webb
Good advice on securing the boat. If you do not have a secondary safety chain attached to the bow eye from the winch stand , suggest putting one on if in the event the winch strap breaks. Make sure the chain is twisted to shorten the length so it cannot slap and damage the bow during transport.

One yellow two inch strap over the cockpit down to the trailer. If new pad it when going over the top of cockpit to avoid any damage till it is worn but pliable. Also, twist the strap to prevent wind slap against the hull.

AFTER TRAVELING 10-20 MM ILES PULL OVER AND CHECK TO SEE IF ANYTHING IS LOOSE.

I NEVER RECOMMEND ANY STRAP OVER TGE FORWARD DECK. YOU WILL CAUSE THE HULL TO DEPRESS IN DUE TO THE FORWARD PORTION OF THE BUNK BOARD PATICULARLY WHEN THE END OF THAT BOARD TIPS UPWARD INTO THE HULL. IT CAN AND WILL BREAK THE WATER BALLAST TANK SEAL TO THE HULL. EXPERIENCE TELLS ME SO
ALSO SECURE THE RUDDER TO THE STERN RAIL SEATS AND IF NONE, to the nearest cleat. Twice I forgot to do so and replaced two rudders as the roadway is a good sandpaper.

for what it is worth The foremost sailboat trailer designer, Ron Frisosky, assisted me designing the Hunter water ballast trailers.

 

[Rick Webb]

Use ratchet straps with caution. If'n a feller cranks too hard on the ratchet he can crack the hull of his boat.

Easier to do than you think. I've done some damage not to boats but to other less fragile cargo.

 

[waterman30]

This brings up the centerboard tray. It looks like half of mine is missing - is it made of 2 boards about 6" wide or is it one piece? I think I can make a new one before launching. I would think it's main purpose is to assist in retrieving in case cb is not fully in up position and to keep cb from slamming on trailer beam when on road. Any thoughts or suggestions on how to fix? Thanks!

As I go thru this old but new to me boat I am pretty impressed by the little design features of both the boat and trailer. This is my first open transom boat and so nice to have easy entry from stern while working in the yard. And built in bow ladder is a plus.

 

[Rick Webb]

This brings up the centerboard tray. It looks like half of mine is missing - is it made of 2 boards about 6" wide or is it one piece? I think I can make a new one before launching. I would think it's main purpose is to assist in retrieving in case cb is not fully in up position and to keep cb from slamming on trailer beam when on road. Any thoughts or suggestions on how to fix? Thanks!

As I go thru this old but new to me boat I am pretty impressed by the little design features of both the boat and trailer. This is my first open transom boat and so nice to have easy entry from stern while working in the yard. And built in bow ladder is a plus.

It is ( or at least mine was) two pieces of plywood about 8" across.
I replaced mine with three pieces of PT 1 X 6 with the middle piece ripped down to fill the void after I put the 6" pieces on either side. Originally there were two self tapping screws securing the inside corners with welded channel holding down the outside. I screwed a piece of the 1 X 6 laterally close to the frame so that it can not move fore and aft.

It'll make more sense when you take the old one out

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Take a photo of the swing centerboard tray and post it. I will advise as I was involved with the trailer design

 

[waterman30]

Will do that. Since boat is on the trailer I fixed up what I have adding another half. Once launched I will completely redo. I can see that this could be important launching too in case cb came down while still on trailer. Can you recall if the tray was 2 boards or one piece? I am thinking 2 since there is an angle on each side.

 

[waterman30]

Here is what I have now for tray. Will be replacing after upcoming launch.

 

[GL-WindPower]

The bottom board came on my 2003 Magic Tilt Trailer. I had problems getting the boat centered on the trailer in high winds, waves or currents. I added the side boards and guide board shown in the pics. Now the boat goes on the trailer centered every time. One of the best DYI improvements.

I have a roller but once the boat is out of the water, the boat is about 1" above the roller. The boat is just resting on the bunks. The swing keel is just resting on the bottom board. I Have a Hunter H240, 2004.

 

[waterman30]

That looks like a nice setup. I just finished work on my trailer with new tray, bunkboards and bunkboard supports. The tray on my hunter trailer does form somewhat of a v. It will be my first time loading her back on trailer come winter.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

When loading up the boat after sailing season, make sure the centerboard is not jammed between the hull and centerboard plate. If it is the bunk boards need to be raised by the same length all way round on the supports