How do you shorten sail in heavy weather? Do you shorten or furl the genoa (for you non-furlers, do you switch to a storm jib)... or do you reef the main first and attend to the headsail later? Share your weather techniques here in the Quick Quiz, now in progress.
- Status
I always start with one reef in the main first at about 15-17 knts of wind. Then I go to the roller furler for about 110% down from the 135%. Then the 2nd reef in the main. If it still blows pretty hard I will go with a double reefed main or a partially furled Genoa only. After than it's time to crank up the diesel and come on home.
Heavy air
When the wind starts blowing, I just drop the main, rarely do I reef it. Then I furl the jib as necessary. I have found I can sail in some pretty heavy air (20-30 kts) at or near hull speed (7-8 kts), and keep the boat flat and comfortable. The Catalina 36 helm remains balanced even with just the jib, while our Newport 30 did not. The Newport was happier with the main reefed and no jib, but I still dropped the main and just put up with the unbalanced helm on the Newport. Above 30 kts of wind I am looking for shelter or getting off the water, dropping all sails and motoring if necessary. I have been caught in 40-45 mph winds with gusts to 60 mph and no place to hide so I used just a small piece of my jib unfurled to be able to maintain helm, but I did not like it. If I were going to places that had winds higher than 30 kts, I would look into a storm jib. Bob
When the wind starts blowing, I just drop the main, rarely do I reef it. Then I furl the jib as necessary. I have found I can sail in some pretty heavy air (20-30 kts) at or near hull speed (7-8 kts), and keep the boat flat and comfortable. The Catalina 36 helm remains balanced even with just the jib, while our Newport 30 did not. The Newport was happier with the main reefed and no jib, but I still dropped the main and just put up with the unbalanced helm on the Newport. Above 30 kts of wind I am looking for shelter or getting off the water, dropping all sails and motoring if necessary. I have been caught in 40-45 mph winds with gusts to 60 mph and no place to hide so I used just a small piece of my jib unfurled to be able to maintain helm, but I did not like it. If I were going to places that had winds higher than 30 kts, I would look into a storm jib. Bob
In 15 to 20 knots I usually reef my 150% to about 135%. I then go for a reef in the main. At about 25 Knots I break out the storm jib and keep the reef in the main. At 30 plus I take a second reef. When it blows arround 35 to 40 it's usually just the storm jib
reefing sequence 4 me
I have a 36 tall rig (1986). I have an eclipical luff sewn into the jib. I reduce the jib at about 22-25 knots and it keeps its shape. The main gets one reef in it at 28-30 knots. After 35 knots I eliminate the jib. I use the sheets to tie my wife down and stuff my ears with cotton to stop from hearing her screams!!!
I have a 36 tall rig (1986). I have an eclipical luff sewn into the jib. I reduce the jib at about 22-25 knots and it keeps its shape. The main gets one reef in it at 28-30 knots. After 35 knots I eliminate the jib. I use the sheets to tie my wife down and stuff my ears with cotton to stop from hearing her screams!!!
maintain balance
I normally furl the 150% genoa to approx 125%, next the main gets a single reef. If the wind continues to pick up the main gets a double reef. I have in extreme conditions furled the genoa to 75%, but it is not recommended as it puts extreme pressure on the furled foot of the sail. I dont have a wind speed indicator, but I know when it's time to shorten sail
I normally furl the 150% genoa to approx 125%, next the main gets a single reef. If the wind continues to pick up the main gets a double reef. I have in extreme conditions furled the genoa to 75%, but it is not recommended as it puts extreme pressure on the furled foot of the sail. I dont have a wind speed indicator, but I know when it's time to shorten sail
Matching Sails to Wind
On my Cat 22, starting with light wind we sail with full mainsail and genoa jib. As wind increases, in theory we switch to full main + working jib; then reefed main (mine only has one reef possible but I wish I had 2)plus working jib; then reefed main + storm jib; then just reefed main; then only storm jib; then bare poles. However, our winds tend not to increase steadily but rather are erratic so the we often skip a lot of steps. Big trick is staying ahead of the wind changes while keeping good control and reasonable speed.
On my Cat 22, starting with light wind we sail with full mainsail and genoa jib. As wind increases, in theory we switch to full main + working jib; then reefed main (mine only has one reef possible but I wish I had 2)plus working jib; then reefed main + storm jib; then just reefed main; then only storm jib; then bare poles. However, our winds tend not to increase steadily but rather are erratic so the we often skip a lot of steps. Big trick is staying ahead of the wind changes while keeping good control and reasonable speed.
I hoped you could tell me
I am never sure which to adjust first. It seems I do it one way then the next time i will do it the otherway. After looking at the responses here I was hopeing the results would tell me something I didn't know. But I guess the answer is what ever makes you feel comfortable or what ever is easiest..
I am never sure which to adjust first. It seems I do it one way then the next time i will do it the otherway. After looking at the responses here I was hopeing the results would tell me something I didn't know. But I guess the answer is what ever makes you feel comfortable or what ever is easiest..
balanced boat
I wrote the sequence that I reef my salis in an earlier response. this is applied to my 36 foot Catalina. It would be different for a very small boat (20-24). I v used several diferent ways on my ODay 27, which was a hanked on jib. On that I reefed the main first. On a 22 I drop the jib first.... Gary
I wrote the sequence that I reef my salis in an earlier response. this is applied to my 36 foot Catalina. It would be different for a very small boat (20-24). I v used several diferent ways on my ODay 27, which was a hanked on jib. On that I reefed the main first. On a 22 I drop the jib first.... Gary
Chapmans says..
I was reading "Chapmans" last night. Yes somepeople really read it! and it said adjust head sail first! The more I think about it that makes sense. after all if you have a furler it would be the easiest and fastest. wouldn't it?
I was reading "Chapmans" last night. Yes somepeople really read it! and it said adjust head sail first! The more I think about it that makes sense. after all if you have a furler it would be the easiest and fastest. wouldn't it?
Reefing/reducing...It depends
Seems that everyone has a technique that works in general. However, another dimension to the question would have to do with your "point of sail." If you must go to windward to reach safe harbor then you need that slot between the main and the jib in order to generate sufficient lift in order to point up. In that case, you need a smaller but tightly strapped -in jib working in concert with the main which shouild be more heavily reefed. This is due to the fact that the r.f.jib probably has to be kept a little too big in order to keep its foil shape if you expect any drive out of it. As you get off the wind, the proportions are less critical and doing it "right " isn't that important. Motoring home, if to windward, in 20 to 30 kts. and 4 to 6 foot seas just isn't an option for smaller boats. You've got to sail to windward and that is a more fussy business. gjh
Seems that everyone has a technique that works in general. However, another dimension to the question would have to do with your "point of sail." If you must go to windward to reach safe harbor then you need that slot between the main and the jib in order to generate sufficient lift in order to point up. In that case, you need a smaller but tightly strapped -in jib working in concert with the main which shouild be more heavily reefed. This is due to the fact that the r.f.jib probably has to be kept a little too big in order to keep its foil shape if you expect any drive out of it. As you get off the wind, the proportions are less critical and doing it "right " isn't that important. Motoring home, if to windward, in 20 to 30 kts. and 4 to 6 foot seas just isn't an option for smaller boats. You've got to sail to windward and that is a more fussy business. gjh
It Depends
If prior to leaving port, the winds are 15 Kts or better, I'll go ahead and tuck a single reef in the main. It's always easier to shake a reef out of the main when underway the to put one in. If I'm already out and the winds start piping up, I'll start rolling in the genoa. It's safer and quicker. With my Catalina 30 (tall rig), I have no problem balancing the helm with either a full main and reefed genoa or reefed main and full genoa. As always the trick is to reef before you have to! Roy
If prior to leaving port, the winds are 15 Kts or better, I'll go ahead and tuck a single reef in the main. It's always easier to shake a reef out of the main when underway the to put one in. If I'm already out and the winds start piping up, I'll start rolling in the genoa. It's safer and quicker. With my Catalina 30 (tall rig), I have no problem balancing the helm with either a full main and reefed genoa or reefed main and full genoa. As always the trick is to reef before you have to! Roy
Final results
Final results for the Quick Quiz ending 2/7/00: When the wind kicks up which do you shorten first? 52% Head sail (221) 48% Main sail (200)
Final results for the Quick Quiz ending 2/7/00: When the wind kicks up which do you shorten first? 52% Head sail (221) 48% Main sail (200)
DO THE EASIEST THINGS FIRST
When the wind pipes up I follow a progression of steps beginning with the easiest to the most difficult thing to do as the wind builds. These steps are based on short handed sailing of a properly rigged boat. 1. Get rid of the draft in the main by flattening. This includes letting the traveler down and tightening the main sheet, cunningham, and outhaul. If you have a backstay adjuster make sure it is tightened to the max. Sail the boat so there is a bubble in the leading 1/3 to 1/2 of the main, you are actually only powering off the backend of the main. Don't flog it. 2. Move the headsail cars aft so wind can begin to spell out of the top of the headsail. 3. Feather up to windward enough to keep th boat moving, without flogging the sails. 4. If these de-powering tactics aren't enough to get the boat to stand up, then it's time to put the first or second reef in the main. 5. With all this done and you are still over powered it is time to begin reducing headsail. I developed this process while single-handed racing a 44'-0 IOR boat without roller furling. The last thing you want to do on a boat of this size is to start schlepping huge headsails around. I've used these tactics when caught at night in 20-22 knot rain squals with a huge deck-sweeping #1 genoa up. I was able to keep racing with the boat on her feet till the squals passed. Good Luck.
When the wind pipes up I follow a progression of steps beginning with the easiest to the most difficult thing to do as the wind builds. These steps are based on short handed sailing of a properly rigged boat. 1. Get rid of the draft in the main by flattening. This includes letting the traveler down and tightening the main sheet, cunningham, and outhaul. If you have a backstay adjuster make sure it is tightened to the max. Sail the boat so there is a bubble in the leading 1/3 to 1/2 of the main, you are actually only powering off the backend of the main. Don't flog it. 2. Move the headsail cars aft so wind can begin to spell out of the top of the headsail. 3. Feather up to windward enough to keep th boat moving, without flogging the sails. 4. If these de-powering tactics aren't enough to get the boat to stand up, then it's time to put the first or second reef in the main. 5. With all this done and you are still over powered it is time to begin reducing headsail. I developed this process while single-handed racing a 44'-0 IOR boat without roller furling. The last thing you want to do on a boat of this size is to start schlepping huge headsails around. I've used these tactics when caught at night in 20-22 knot rain squals with a huge deck-sweeping #1 genoa up. I was able to keep racing with the boat on her feet till the squals passed. Good Luck.
general high wind trim
I think that, in general, Catalina's use the genoa/jib for power and the main for steering trim (the opposite of fractional rigs). My trim sequence as wind increases: flatten main and lower on traveller, if the jib backs wind onto the main, reduce jib size and MOVE JIB BLOCKS further forward. If wind increases further, reef main. Do not let the main flog. The amount of effort on the helm is a good indicator of trim. I advise against using jib only as a raised main helps to balance the boat and spread the loads on the rig. My C-30 has following jibs for cruising: 140 genoa, 110 jib and 80(storm); for racing add 160 genoa and 120 blade. C-30 tall rig handles well, faster than motoring, nearly neutral helm with 120 blade and full reefed main in 40 knots upwind.
I think that, in general, Catalina's use the genoa/jib for power and the main for steering trim (the opposite of fractional rigs). My trim sequence as wind increases: flatten main and lower on traveller, if the jib backs wind onto the main, reduce jib size and MOVE JIB BLOCKS further forward. If wind increases further, reef main. Do not let the main flog. The amount of effort on the helm is a good indicator of trim. I advise against using jib only as a raised main helps to balance the boat and spread the loads on the rig. My C-30 has following jibs for cruising: 140 genoa, 110 jib and 80(storm); for racing add 160 genoa and 120 blade. C-30 tall rig handles well, faster than motoring, nearly neutral helm with 120 blade and full reefed main in 40 knots upwind.
- Status