Shore power battery charger isn't charging?

[SoSound]

Hi, Gang! It's time for my biennial electrical problem and troubleshooting questions. Grab yourself a beverage and enjoy...

I stopped by the marina a little more than a week ago, to find a completely dead house battery bank displaying only 9.7V on my DC panel volt meter. Both of the house batteries have now been replaced with new ones, but it appears that my AC battery charger is not charging at all. The charger is a Sterling Power ProCharge Ultra Lite, it powers on when shore power is connected (makes a sound when it comes on), the "Unit Active" light comes on, as well as the "Battery Charge Progress" light ("Fast charge", "Absorption", etc.), but the voltage LEDs indicate only 12.4 or 12.8V and never any higher. In fact, I think the indicated charge voltage gets lower over time. The DC power panel voltage display is similar to what is shown on the charger. I have reset the charger to factory default settings. It was all default settings anyway, but the manual suggests resetting the unit if it begins to behave "bizarrely" and I think this qualifies.

I have reconnected my two solar panels and switched off the ProChage - Lite, and the solar panels do charge the batteries. After connecting and turning on the solar panels, yesterday afternoon, and with clearing skies today, the Victron Solar controller app tells me that the voltage is up to 14.4 (similar display on DC panel) and it has changed over from Bulk to Absorption mode.

There is a batter isolator, but I think that it is only used when charging from the alternator, it's wired to a relay and the documentation indicates that this is only necessary when the alternator needs to sense battery voltage...

I have replaced a blown fuse in one positive charger lead. I get voltage readings and all of my terminals and fuses. I haven't been able to get a current reading, so I'd appreciate a tutorial on where and how to read charging amps.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Is the meter actual voltage, or rate of charge, like many chargers? If it is a rate of charge, as the battery charges to the top, the rate of charge will drop. Also, make sure the distilled water level is up and connections are clean and tight. You can always call the manufacturer of the charger too to get expert trouble-shooting advice.

 

[FastOlson]

How old is it? Might want to invoke the warranty. This company has a pretty good rep. Local dealer may be able to help you out even if it is just beyond warranty date.

 

[Brian D]

Is it also possible that the charger has "reset" and is no longer looking at your batteries as either Lead Acid or AGM? Or maybe your charging current is using low current (<5 amps) or standard current (~12 amps). I know that if my charger loses shore power it reverts back to "safe mode". Just a thought.

 

[SoSound]

Thanks for the replies! I am waiting for some sort of reply from Sterling-Power USA.

Warranty is a possibility, depending on whether they believe that my problem occurred within the two year warranty period for this model (it's a matter of just a few days +/- based on date on the payment receipt for my purchase). I know that I didn't get it installed for about another month after my payment. The U.S. distributor no longer sells the "Lite" charger, although it is possible that they still have a few of them for warranty replacement.

@Brian D, I did perform a reset to factory defaults on the charger, which seemed to have no effect on its lack of charging. Advise on how to manually measure and confirm charging current is one of the things that I was asking about in my original post. I was hoping for a quick "how-to" tip or two from someone... but, that low current should still be at the appropriate voltage for the charging mode, shouldn't it? Which should be more than the 12.3V that was the same as the resting battery bank voltage at that time. I can see the charging current from my Victron solar controller, when that is on, but at the time that I first posted on this, I had not yet reinstalled the solar panels, and my only attempt at measuring current gave me a reading of zero amps. MAYBE it read 0.01A, but I just assumed that I didn't know what I was doing when trying to measure current, that would be at least the second incorrect assumption that I've made in trying to troubleshoot this problem.

 

[jssailem]

Dave you indicate you have a DMM. Is it designed to measure DC amps?

Here ia a link to Fluke meters. It describes how to get AMP measurements using the clamp attachment.

Using Accessory Current Clamps with Digital Multimeters | Fluke

Accessory current clamps expand a multimeter's flexibility and measurement capabilities by allowing it to measure up to thousands of amps.

www.fluke.com

AC/DC clamps: Fluke 80i-110s

80i-110s is also an ac/dc Hall Effect Type clamp. This is a dual range clamp with an output of either 10 millivolts or 100 millivolts per amp ac for ac current measurements or 10 millivolts or 100 millivolts per amp dc for dc current measurements. Use the 100 millivolt per amp position for accurate current measurements up to 10 amps and the 10 millivolt per amp position for current measurements exceeding 10 amps but less than 100 amps​

This clamp was originally designed for use with an oscillioscope and terminates with a BNC style connector. To use it with a Digital multimeter, add a PM9081/001 BNC to dual banana adapter. For best results, the Digital multimeter should have a millivolt range for either ac or dc voltage, depending on the current to be measured.​

For dc current measurements, plug the black output connector into the meter's common jack and the red output connector into the meter's V/? input jack. Set the meter's function switch to read dc millivolts or dc voltage. Turn the probe ON by sliding the switch from "Off" to the appropriate range position depending upon the current to be measured.​

For the most accurate dc measurements, with the jaws closed use the "zero"adjust to zero the displayed reading before clamping around the current to be measured. This zero adjust is only required for dc measurements. Place the clamp jaws around only one conductor of the circuit to be tested. If there is current flowing in the circuit the millivolt reading in the display can be converted to the actual current flow in amps based on the above examples.​