Found a broken sheave (pulley wheel) where the lines pass thru under the dorade box on my 376. I bought a new sheave at West Marine. My question is to remove
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Caulking on the screw!
Bob: They probably got some caulking on the screw threads. IF you can find a larger screw driver with a square or hex shank you may be able to put a large wrench on the screw driver to help you break it loose. So they real answer to your problem is a stronger person with a bigger screw driver. (PS: I hope they didn't use 5200 for caulking). Be sure to caulk the new one when you put it down. Use Life Caulk or 4200.
Bob: They probably got some caulking on the screw threads. IF you can find a larger screw driver with a square or hex shank you may be able to put a large wrench on the screw driver to help you break it loose. So they real answer to your problem is a stronger person with a bigger screw driver. (PS: I hope they didn't use 5200 for caulking). Be sure to caulk the new one when you put it down. Use Life Caulk or 4200.
Been there Done that
Bob, I replaced two sheaves with ball race types on my deck organisers some years ago when I was trying to reduce main halyard friction. I have a 1996 376 and expect your units are the same as mine. Like you I found the central bolts very stiff but persisted with the crosspoint bits one finds in small socket spanner sets which can be driven with a ratchet handle. If you don't have a set they are very inexpensive from car accessories suppliers and are very handy. From memory my screws just undid. Hope this helps. PS I also removed the horizontal bar plus rollers under the black perspex just in front of the organisers. This was because there is a condition where the mainsheet could jam between the support bracket and the roller when the boom was way out and this prevented the sheet from being released or pulled in - quite frightening and a real nuisance. In place of rollers I formed a piece of stainless steel sheet as a guard over the edge of the perspex so that the rope would not spoil the perspex (plexiglass to you!) This also overcame another problem in that a tight halyard would hold a roller stationary and then it would cause friction to the next rope bearing on the same roller. Hard to describe but you will see what I mean when you are aboard. I undid the screws holding this roller bar by simply pushing my screwdriver into the black sealant covering the screwheads. Having removed the screws I only put sealant into the holes in the deck as the others were not at all unsightly. Regards, Don.
Bob, I replaced two sheaves with ball race types on my deck organisers some years ago when I was trying to reduce main halyard friction. I have a 1996 376 and expect your units are the same as mine. Like you I found the central bolts very stiff but persisted with the crosspoint bits one finds in small socket spanner sets which can be driven with a ratchet handle. If you don't have a set they are very inexpensive from car accessories suppliers and are very handy. From memory my screws just undid. Hope this helps. PS I also removed the horizontal bar plus rollers under the black perspex just in front of the organisers. This was because there is a condition where the mainsheet could jam between the support bracket and the roller when the boom was way out and this prevented the sheet from being released or pulled in - quite frightening and a real nuisance. In place of rollers I formed a piece of stainless steel sheet as a guard over the edge of the perspex so that the rope would not spoil the perspex (plexiglass to you!) This also overcame another problem in that a tight halyard would hold a roller stationary and then it would cause friction to the next rope bearing on the same roller. Hard to describe but you will see what I mean when you are aboard. I undid the screws holding this roller bar by simply pushing my screwdriver into the black sealant covering the screwheads. Having removed the screws I only put sealant into the holes in the deck as the others were not at all unsightly. Regards, Don.
Stainless Screws in Aluminum Backing Plate
I'm positive the problem is the stainless screws are sized in the aluminum backing plate. If you can get them out without shearing them off, when you replace them recommend using some anti-sieze compound or Lanocote. http://www.forespar.com/catalog/misc/lanocote.htm
I'm positive the problem is the stainless screws are sized in the aluminum backing plate. If you can get them out without shearing them off, when you replace them recommend using some anti-sieze compound or Lanocote. http://www.forespar.com/catalog/misc/lanocote.htm
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