When hauled out this fall I noticed that the prop shaft is wearing at the hull opening the cutlas bearing and strut is fine. Inside the shaft coupling and packing look great. Could the YSM 12 mounts be bad and have let the engine drop down to where the shaft is now rubbing on the thru hull plates lower portion. It seems to have rubbed enough that the diamiter of the shaft is getting a deep cut down of size at the opening as it exits the the hull plate. Has any Cheribini owners ever had this problem.
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Eric C Lindstrom
Thank goodness, no ...
Ours looks good this season (1978 H30), please keep us posted on what you find out. Do you haul out the boat every Fall? Did this happen over the course of one season?
Ours looks good this season (1978 H30), please keep us posted on what you find out. Do you haul out the boat every Fall? Did this happen over the course of one season?
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Ed Schenck
Hull plate?
Is the "hull plate" the small plate with two bolts at the shaft exit? How were you able to see the groove in the shaft? Your explanation sounds feasible. But it seems the engine mounts would have to deteriorate a lot to change the shaft angle that much. Seems more likely that the shaft was whipping, maybe due to a loose coupling at the tranny. In either case I thought you would have a vibration and lots of noise. The mounts are hard to examine but that is what is called for.
Is the "hull plate" the small plate with two bolts at the shaft exit? How were you able to see the groove in the shaft? Your explanation sounds feasible. But it seems the engine mounts would have to deteriorate a lot to change the shaft angle that much. Seems more likely that the shaft was whipping, maybe due to a loose coupling at the tranny. In either case I thought you would have a vibration and lots of noise. The mounts are hard to examine but that is what is called for.
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A.J, Wortelboer
2 bolt shaft plate
Yes the shaft is laying on the lower diamiter of the shaft plate. At this point it looks that it is wearing against the the lower portion of the plate. Clearance at the top of the opening is what caught my eye, after a closer look I can see a groove wearing into the shaft. The opening is not worn ecentric at this time as the shaft is getting chewed up instead. Having the 1 lung ysm12 who would know what is excessive viberation. I have owned the boat for 7 years and pull out every fall and have not noticed it in the past. As a matter of fact I sandblasted and did the west system to the entire hull last spring to repair any blisters and crazing that 23 years developed. Then went over with the epoxy barrier coats and vc17. Bottom looks better than the wife's.
Yes the shaft is laying on the lower diamiter of the shaft plate. At this point it looks that it is wearing against the the lower portion of the plate. Clearance at the top of the opening is what caught my eye, after a closer look I can see a groove wearing into the shaft. The opening is not worn ecentric at this time as the shaft is getting chewed up instead. Having the 1 lung ysm12 who would know what is excessive viberation. I have owned the boat for 7 years and pull out every fall and have not noticed it in the past. As a matter of fact I sandblasted and did the west system to the entire hull last spring to repair any blisters and crazing that 23 years developed. Then went over with the epoxy barrier coats and vc17. Bottom looks better than the wife's.
A
A.J, Wortelboer
2 bolt shaft plate
Yes the shaft is laying on the lower diamiter of the shaft plate. At this point it looks that it is wearing against the the lower portion of the plate. Clearance at the top of the opening is what caught my eye, after a closer look I can see a groove wearing into the shaft. The opening is not worn ecentric at this time as the shaft is getting chewed up instead. Having the 1 lung ysm12 who would know what is excessive viberation. I have owned the boat for 7 years and pull out every fall and have not noticed it in the past. As a matter of fact I sandblasted and did the west system to the entire hull last spring to repair any blisters and crazing that 23 years developed. Then went over with the epoxy barrier coats and vc17. Bottom looks better than the wife's.
Yes the shaft is laying on the lower diamiter of the shaft plate. At this point it looks that it is wearing against the the lower portion of the plate. Clearance at the top of the opening is what caught my eye, after a closer look I can see a groove wearing into the shaft. The opening is not worn ecentric at this time as the shaft is getting chewed up instead. Having the 1 lung ysm12 who would know what is excessive viberation. I have owned the boat for 7 years and pull out every fall and have not noticed it in the past. As a matter of fact I sandblasted and did the west system to the entire hull last spring to repair any blisters and crazing that 23 years developed. Then went over with the epoxy barrier coats and vc17. Bottom looks better than the wife's.
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steven f.
possible
I'm concerned that I have a similar problem on my 1981 H33. We replaced the engine mounts last year (original mounts)and since than our shaft rap has worstned. I'm now concerned that we have an area on our shaft that is wearing at the shaft log. We are hauling in Jan. and will pull the shaft at that time. I've written numerous letters and posted a bunch of stuff on shaft rap and learned a lot. We are hoping that this shaft rap is not something we just have to live with. By the way, the cutless is new, new PSS dripless shaft seal and new engine mounts. From some letters and articles I've read, these are sometimes the reason for the shaft rapping, man, I'll be glad to solve this one.... I'm looking foward to hearing about how you solve this one also.
I'm concerned that I have a similar problem on my 1981 H33. We replaced the engine mounts last year (original mounts)and since than our shaft rap has worstned. I'm now concerned that we have an area on our shaft that is wearing at the shaft log. We are hauling in Jan. and will pull the shaft at that time. I've written numerous letters and posted a bunch of stuff on shaft rap and learned a lot. We are hoping that this shaft rap is not something we just have to live with. By the way, the cutless is new, new PSS dripless shaft seal and new engine mounts. From some letters and articles I've read, these are sometimes the reason for the shaft rapping, man, I'll be glad to solve this one.... I'm looking foward to hearing about how you solve this one also.
S
steven f.
possible
I'm concerned that I have a similar problem on my 1981 H33. We replaced the engine mounts last year (original mounts)and since than our shaft rap has worstned. I'm now concerned that we have an area on our shaft that is wearing at the shaft log. We are hauling in Jan. and will pull the shaft at that time. I've written numerous letters and posted a bunch of stuff on shaft rap and learned a lot. We are hoping that this shaft rap is not something we just have to live with. By the way, the cutless is new, new PSS dripless shaft seal and new engine mounts. From some letters and articles I've read, these are sometimes the reason for the shaft rapping, man, I'll be glad to solve this one.... I'm looking foward to hearing about how you solve this one also.
I'm concerned that I have a similar problem on my 1981 H33. We replaced the engine mounts last year (original mounts)and since than our shaft rap has worstned. I'm now concerned that we have an area on our shaft that is wearing at the shaft log. We are hauling in Jan. and will pull the shaft at that time. I've written numerous letters and posted a bunch of stuff on shaft rap and learned a lot. We are hoping that this shaft rap is not something we just have to live with. By the way, the cutless is new, new PSS dripless shaft seal and new engine mounts. From some letters and articles I've read, these are sometimes the reason for the shaft rapping, man, I'll be glad to solve this one.... I'm looking foward to hearing about how you solve this one also.
C
Chuck Fort
All my vibration went away
Last year I had engine vibration at several speeds with my 1983 H 27 with a Yanmar 1GM. Last winter I slid the engine forward to get the prop shaft out (the coupling just would not come off). With the shaft out I was able to change the cutlass bearing, the motor mounts, and the stuffing box and packing. I used the Teflon packing with some dripless lubricant. I tightened to no drip and have not had any dripping. The shaft and stuffing box do not get hot. I did not rebed the stern tube (the thing that bolts to the boat and the stuffing box mounts to).Unfortunateluy it leaked when the boat went in the water. An overnight haulout and quick rebed solved that problem. Before the boat went into the water I spent three hours carefully aligned the engine and prop shaft. I had to raise the engine some using the motor mounts, to get it aligned. All season this year the vibration has gone away and a check after the boat had been in the water a few weeks, showed the engine still aligned. The moral of all this is replace everything if they have not been done recently, and carefully align the engine.
Last year I had engine vibration at several speeds with my 1983 H 27 with a Yanmar 1GM. Last winter I slid the engine forward to get the prop shaft out (the coupling just would not come off). With the shaft out I was able to change the cutlass bearing, the motor mounts, and the stuffing box and packing. I used the Teflon packing with some dripless lubricant. I tightened to no drip and have not had any dripping. The shaft and stuffing box do not get hot. I did not rebed the stern tube (the thing that bolts to the boat and the stuffing box mounts to).Unfortunateluy it leaked when the boat went in the water. An overnight haulout and quick rebed solved that problem. Before the boat went into the water I spent three hours carefully aligned the engine and prop shaft. I had to raise the engine some using the motor mounts, to get it aligned. All season this year the vibration has gone away and a check after the boat had been in the water a few weeks, showed the engine still aligned. The moral of all this is replace everything if they have not been done recently, and carefully align the engine.
C
Chuck Fort
All my vibration went away
Last year I had engine vibration at several speeds with my 1983 H 27 with a Yanmar 1GM. Last winter I slid the engine forward to get the prop shaft out (the coupling just would not come off). With the shaft out I was able to change the cutlass bearing, the motor mounts, and the stuffing box and packing. I used the Teflon packing with some dripless lubricant. I tightened to no drip and have not had any dripping. The shaft and stuffing box do not get hot. I did not rebed the stern tube (the thing that bolts to the boat and the stuffing box mounts to).Unfortunateluy it leaked when the boat went in the water. An overnight haulout and quick rebed solved that problem. Before the boat went into the water I spent three hours carefully aligned the engine and prop shaft. I had to raise the engine some using the motor mounts, to get it aligned. All season this year the vibration has gone away and a check after the boat had been in the water a few weeks, showed the engine still aligned. The moral of all this is replace everything if they have not been done recently, and carefully align the engine.
Last year I had engine vibration at several speeds with my 1983 H 27 with a Yanmar 1GM. Last winter I slid the engine forward to get the prop shaft out (the coupling just would not come off). With the shaft out I was able to change the cutlass bearing, the motor mounts, and the stuffing box and packing. I used the Teflon packing with some dripless lubricant. I tightened to no drip and have not had any dripping. The shaft and stuffing box do not get hot. I did not rebed the stern tube (the thing that bolts to the boat and the stuffing box mounts to).Unfortunateluy it leaked when the boat went in the water. An overnight haulout and quick rebed solved that problem. Before the boat went into the water I spent three hours carefully aligned the engine and prop shaft. I had to raise the engine some using the motor mounts, to get it aligned. All season this year the vibration has gone away and a check after the boat had been in the water a few weeks, showed the engine still aligned. The moral of all this is replace everything if they have not been done recently, and carefully align the engine.
J
J. Tesoriero
There is more to align than the engine!
Over the course of the past two years we had some serious alignment problems. I had the motor mounts changed on my 1980 Hunter 30 and the yard also changed the shaft, ebgine coupling, cutlass bearing, and installed a dripless stufing box. Even with the engine aligned, the prop and shaft could hardly be turnedby hand. After consultations, surveys and trial and error, it was determined that the prop strut and stern tube had to be realigned so that the new shaft would turn. Then the engine could be aligned to the shaft. The original factory alignment of the prop strut was no longer plumb and square with the rest of the boat - when changing all of the other components.
Over the course of the past two years we had some serious alignment problems. I had the motor mounts changed on my 1980 Hunter 30 and the yard also changed the shaft, ebgine coupling, cutlass bearing, and installed a dripless stufing box. Even with the engine aligned, the prop and shaft could hardly be turnedby hand. After consultations, surveys and trial and error, it was determined that the prop strut and stern tube had to be realigned so that the new shaft would turn. Then the engine could be aligned to the shaft. The original factory alignment of the prop strut was no longer plumb and square with the rest of the boat - when changing all of the other components.
J
J. Tesoriero
There is more to align than the engine!
Over the course of the past two years we had some serious alignment problems. I had the motor mounts changed on my 1980 Hunter 30 and the yard also changed the shaft, ebgine coupling, cutlass bearing, and installed a dripless stufing box. Even with the engine aligned, the prop and shaft could hardly be turnedby hand. After consultations, surveys and trial and error, it was determined that the prop strut and stern tube had to be realigned so that the new shaft would turn. Then the engine could be aligned to the shaft. The original factory alignment of the prop strut was no longer plumb and square with the rest of the boat - when changing all of the other components.
Over the course of the past two years we had some serious alignment problems. I had the motor mounts changed on my 1980 Hunter 30 and the yard also changed the shaft, ebgine coupling, cutlass bearing, and installed a dripless stufing box. Even with the engine aligned, the prop and shaft could hardly be turnedby hand. After consultations, surveys and trial and error, it was determined that the prop strut and stern tube had to be realigned so that the new shaft would turn. Then the engine could be aligned to the shaft. The original factory alignment of the prop strut was no longer plumb and square with the rest of the boat - when changing all of the other components.
R
Royce
Strut to stuffing box alignment
I had a bent strut and the yard who did the initial haulout just bent it back to where it looked good to them. The next haul out I aligned it by removing the prop shaft and cutluss bearing and found some round stock that fit fairly tight in the strut and extended it into the stuffing box. At first it would not go, and after some more bending of the strut I was able to get it alligned. Hope this helps.
I had a bent strut and the yard who did the initial haulout just bent it back to where it looked good to them. The next haul out I aligned it by removing the prop shaft and cutluss bearing and found some round stock that fit fairly tight in the strut and extended it into the stuffing box. At first it would not go, and after some more bending of the strut I was able to get it alligned. Hope this helps.
R
Royce
Strut to stuffing box alignment
I had a bent strut and the yard who did the initial haulout just bent it back to where it looked good to them. The next haul out I aligned it by removing the prop shaft and cutluss bearing and found some round stock that fit fairly tight in the strut and extended it into the stuffing box. At first it would not go, and after some more bending of the strut I was able to get it alligned. Hope this helps.
I had a bent strut and the yard who did the initial haulout just bent it back to where it looked good to them. The next haul out I aligned it by removing the prop shaft and cutluss bearing and found some round stock that fit fairly tight in the strut and extended it into the stuffing box. At first it would not go, and after some more bending of the strut I was able to get it alligned. Hope this helps.
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