Sailors.... Problem: i think i have barnikles growing on my shaft inside my stuffing box...everytime the motor is moving the box has a leak big enough to worry about....Im getting the boat hauled next week. The boat 1983 27ft hunter with a 1gm yanmar engine.... The shaft needs replace its in bad shape...... Questions: What should i do? Where can i get a new shaft for this engine.... What do i use to repack the stuffing box.... Where can i get a replacement stuffing box....?????? Rough cost of material... Thanks
shaft+stuffing box replacement
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Rcent rebuild
This winter I had my marina service department replace my shaft, cutlass bearing, and stuffing box on my 1985 H-31. I went with a PSS dripless to replace the stock stuffing box. Final cost- $1400 which included the cost of rebedding the strut. My marina is located in Willsboro N.Y. which is upstate near Plattsburg so you would have to factor in NYC escallation costs.
This winter I had my marina service department replace my shaft, cutlass bearing, and stuffing box on my 1985 H-31. I went with a PSS dripless to replace the stock stuffing box. Final cost- $1400 which included the cost of rebedding the strut. My marina is located in Willsboro N.Y. which is upstate near Plattsburg so you would have to factor in NYC escallation costs.
How do you know the shaft is bad??
Seems like your jumping to conclusions but I cant tell. If your shaft is straight, its good. Do you have a vibration? Maybe your problem is the cutlass bearing - not the shaft. You may need to just clean off the shaft when you lift her out. I've heard great things about the new teflon style packing- you can get that at West Marine. You may only be looking at a cutlass bearing and packing material and labor to remove the shaft and clean it all up. That shouldn't be too bad - 1/2 day labor and less than 50-75 bucks material.
Seems like your jumping to conclusions but I cant tell. If your shaft is straight, its good. Do you have a vibration? Maybe your problem is the cutlass bearing - not the shaft. You may need to just clean off the shaft when you lift her out. I've heard great things about the new teflon style packing- you can get that at West Marine. You may only be looking at a cutlass bearing and packing material and labor to remove the shaft and clean it all up. That shouldn't be too bad - 1/2 day labor and less than 50-75 bucks material.
They can be turned.
The shaft can be turned. Otherwise you are probably looking at something like $100/ft installed (this probably would not include the pull/splash).
The shaft can be turned. Otherwise you are probably looking at something like $100/ft installed (this probably would not include the pull/splash).
shaft, cutlass and packing
The cutlass has some rubber components that do vulcanize and disintegrate over time. In my case several years back...I heard a thunk..thunk when the shaft turned and knocked on the strut housing. I used 3M5200 on the strut to hull/boltholes. And check the condition of your thru hull bolts on that strut plate- replace them - as one of mine had taken to rust(galvantic action)in a SS soft spot and began to bleed thru (read as" slow leak")- SS bolts are not created of equal quality. Repacking box- I've used the teflon packing and had been very happy with it...get the right diameter "engineered fabric". Pick out( I used a dentist's pick) the old packing from the housing, insert three rings of the new fabric - ring seam inserted to a 1/3 offset from the prior ring. You may not need a new box but if you do, there are 2 diameter measurements you need(especially the aft side)where theres a hose & clamps to the hull/shaft receiver (which may be part of the assembly from Hunter). Contact Hunter for details. Careful -Don't over tighten the packing box. When you spash-in, hold the boat in the sling for a while, watch the box for leaks, run the engine (while in sling)a little while and then adjust the tightness again once the box has "juiced" itself up with seawater. Check again periodically as the material takes a set.
The cutlass has some rubber components that do vulcanize and disintegrate over time. In my case several years back...I heard a thunk..thunk when the shaft turned and knocked on the strut housing. I used 3M5200 on the strut to hull/boltholes. And check the condition of your thru hull bolts on that strut plate- replace them - as one of mine had taken to rust(galvantic action)in a SS soft spot and began to bleed thru (read as" slow leak")- SS bolts are not created of equal quality. Repacking box- I've used the teflon packing and had been very happy with it...get the right diameter "engineered fabric". Pick out( I used a dentist's pick) the old packing from the housing, insert three rings of the new fabric - ring seam inserted to a 1/3 offset from the prior ring. You may not need a new box but if you do, there are 2 diameter measurements you need(especially the aft side)where theres a hose & clamps to the hull/shaft receiver (which may be part of the assembly from Hunter). Contact Hunter for details. Careful -Don't over tighten the packing box. When you spash-in, hold the boat in the sling for a while, watch the box for leaks, run the engine (while in sling)a little while and then adjust the tightness again once the box has "juiced" itself up with seawater. Check again periodically as the material takes a set.
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