Can I get some feedback on shaft strut movement. Pullout at the end of the season revealed some play in the shaft strut < 1/4" side to side, is this within reason or should the strut be reset? The cutless bearing also show some wear and again shows some movement/play within the strut shaft. I'm looking into the Strut Pro tool to remove and install the bearing, has anyone had good luck using one? Does anyone know how the rudder post is designed to prevent water from entering the hull? This does not seem to be a problem on my boat, but from reading repair manuals, I see examples of a stuffing box around the rudder post to prevent water from entering. I'm just wondering if a coastal cruiser does not merit one? Thanks Larry
shaft strut/ rudder post
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Stephen Parfet
Rudder and strut
Larry- The shaft strut should be firm, otherwise you will wear out your cutlass bearing and stuffing box much quicker. There have been a number of rudder post posting on this site. There have been a lot of good ideas but whatever you do, you will have to open the system up. Also, instead of buying a tool you will only use once or twice, have the yard mechanic replace the cutlass bearing for you.
Larry- The shaft strut should be firm, otherwise you will wear out your cutlass bearing and stuffing box much quicker. There have been a number of rudder post posting on this site. There have been a lot of good ideas but whatever you do, you will have to open the system up. Also, instead of buying a tool you will only use once or twice, have the yard mechanic replace the cutlass bearing for you.
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Stephen Parfet
Strut
Larry, I do not believe you have to remove your shaft to work on your strut. Someone out there though may have a better idea after doing the job. I would think that you could grind out the strut base and reset everything with the shaft being your guide on location and angle.
Larry, I do not believe you have to remove your shaft to work on your strut. Someone out there though may have a better idea after doing the job. I would think that you could grind out the strut base and reset everything with the shaft being your guide on location and angle.
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Larry Connolly
follow up
Hi Stephen Thanks for your input. In researching the strut issue, I think that pulling the rudder may not be necessary, as you say, and I’ll give it a try without removing the rudder. I’m planning on grinding down the epoxy/resin that it’s embedded in as soon as I get the prop off. I’ll probably drill the screw holes out and inject West epoxy into them; I’m trying to decide if I want to epoxy the strut base to the skeg as well before screwing it back onto the skeg? I’m planning on taking the shaft strut to a shop to have a new cutless bearing pressed in. Right now I’m replacing a 12” X 12” section of the cabin top under the mast plate that had water damage. My plate was attached with 1 ¾ “ lag screws, I’ll replace them with thru hull bolts with locking nuts and add a stainless steel backing plate on the inner cabin top. Water damage was from penetration through the electrical fittings next to the mast. On my boat none the drilled deck openings had a solid epoxy plug within the core. Generally, my deck is sound, but given this discovery I may pull all the deck hardware off and reset it properly. I’m interested in getting a better look at my shaft stuffing box; right now the clamps are visible rusted, and I have some concern it needs replacement/work. Though, I never noticed water coming in under sail or power from the stern, I maintain a constant 2-3 “of water in the bilge. When the boat is at mooring during heavy weather/ or under sail in heavy seas, this amount can increase till the bilge cover lifts. I have installed a new bilge pump with a float switch this summer, which keeps her safe. I’m in the process of checking all the thru hulls. I have one that is hidden on the port side below the locker next the drop down table. In my boat this is a first aid locker with a fire extinguisher, there is a thin panel base inside the locker that I believe has a bilge thru hull below it. I’m not sure if the base is designed to lift up for inspection or not. I’d be interested if you have the same fitting location. On my boat only the raw water intake for the engine, head and the waste outlet have ball valves attached. This is a new boat for me, and my first at that. My window layout is the same as yours, but my hot water heater has long since disappeared along with the refrigeration, and the bi-fold doors in the cabin. I’d really like to rebuild the doors and would appreciate any input or dimensions re may be able to provide me. Thanks for any assistance Larry Connolly
Hi Stephen Thanks for your input. In researching the strut issue, I think that pulling the rudder may not be necessary, as you say, and I’ll give it a try without removing the rudder. I’m planning on grinding down the epoxy/resin that it’s embedded in as soon as I get the prop off. I’ll probably drill the screw holes out and inject West epoxy into them; I’m trying to decide if I want to epoxy the strut base to the skeg as well before screwing it back onto the skeg? I’m planning on taking the shaft strut to a shop to have a new cutless bearing pressed in. Right now I’m replacing a 12” X 12” section of the cabin top under the mast plate that had water damage. My plate was attached with 1 ¾ “ lag screws, I’ll replace them with thru hull bolts with locking nuts and add a stainless steel backing plate on the inner cabin top. Water damage was from penetration through the electrical fittings next to the mast. On my boat none the drilled deck openings had a solid epoxy plug within the core. Generally, my deck is sound, but given this discovery I may pull all the deck hardware off and reset it properly. I’m interested in getting a better look at my shaft stuffing box; right now the clamps are visible rusted, and I have some concern it needs replacement/work. Though, I never noticed water coming in under sail or power from the stern, I maintain a constant 2-3 “of water in the bilge. When the boat is at mooring during heavy weather/ or under sail in heavy seas, this amount can increase till the bilge cover lifts. I have installed a new bilge pump with a float switch this summer, which keeps her safe. I’m in the process of checking all the thru hulls. I have one that is hidden on the port side below the locker next the drop down table. In my boat this is a first aid locker with a fire extinguisher, there is a thin panel base inside the locker that I believe has a bilge thru hull below it. I’m not sure if the base is designed to lift up for inspection or not. I’d be interested if you have the same fitting location. On my boat only the raw water intake for the engine, head and the waste outlet have ball valves attached. This is a new boat for me, and my first at that. My window layout is the same as yours, but my hot water heater has long since disappeared along with the refrigeration, and the bi-fold doors in the cabin. I’d really like to rebuild the doors and would appreciate any input or dimensions re may be able to provide me. Thanks for any assistance Larry Connolly
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Larry
Soft Ground
Hi Red, I'm hoping we get a frost real soon. The ground is soft in the yard I'm storing the boat. It's a commercial yard, and the boat was set by pros, so I'm hoping it stays put. Have you ever checked the bilge thru hull port side? On my boat it's located under a screwed down locker base panel, great access! Just curious if other boats have the same set up. Also do you have any idea what your compression post sits on? I'm in the process of doing some mast deck repairs myself, so I'd be interested in learning what other people have done with beefing up the mast plate connection. Cheers Larry
Hi Red, I'm hoping we get a frost real soon. The ground is soft in the yard I'm storing the boat. It's a commercial yard, and the boat was set by pros, so I'm hoping it stays put. Have you ever checked the bilge thru hull port side? On my boat it's located under a screwed down locker base panel, great access! Just curious if other boats have the same set up. Also do you have any idea what your compression post sits on? I'm in the process of doing some mast deck repairs myself, so I'd be interested in learning what other people have done with beefing up the mast plate connection. Cheers Larry
Strut replacement
Hers is the link for strut replacement. If the strut is loose at all it needs to be reset. I have replaced my cutlass bearing but not had to rest the strut. With the strut removed it should not be necessary to remove the rudder. Just be sure to install the cutlass and shaft before reseting the strut. When replacing my rudder I found that a small jack and a block of wood was needed to hold the rudder in place before making the connections. I assume a similar arrangement would be helpful when replacing the strut.
Hers is the link for strut replacement. If the strut is loose at all it needs to be reset. I have replaced my cutlass bearing but not had to rest the strut. With the strut removed it should not be necessary to remove the rudder. Just be sure to install the cutlass and shaft before reseting the strut. When replacing my rudder I found that a small jack and a block of wood was needed to hold the rudder in place before making the connections. I assume a similar arrangement would be helpful when replacing the strut.
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Larry
strut alignment
Thanks for the link to the strut information. I finally got in touch with my mechanic today. Good news is the engine runs fine, it's the original 2QM15, bad news is the strut needs to be reset, and the stuffing box needs replacement. His opinion is the propeller shaft is coming out one way or another. There seems to be no question the stuffing box is shot, I can see every clamp is rusted over, as for the hose, I don't know what it is, but it's not black. He wants to string align the strut shaft from the coupler, as there is no way of knowing if the current alignment is still valid given the age of the boat, plus the shaft should be inspected for wear. Seems to be pretty valid reasoning, backeed up by closer inspection of the drive train. I'm slowly working my way down into the cockpit hatch, I removed the batteries along with the battery box this weekend, trying to get a better look at the shaft. I'd climb in, but there's some question I'd make it out again (I'm 6-5 and 225 lbs) The shaft coupler is about as rusted over as anything I've ever seen. I soaked it with liquid wrench, but if that shaft slides out it's going be a minor miracle. Anyone come up with a better place to locate a battery bank instead of against the fuel tank? My question to everyone is, can the shaft be removed without removing the rudder, and if not, how deep do you dig the hole? Cheers larry
Thanks for the link to the strut information. I finally got in touch with my mechanic today. Good news is the engine runs fine, it's the original 2QM15, bad news is the strut needs to be reset, and the stuffing box needs replacement. His opinion is the propeller shaft is coming out one way or another. There seems to be no question the stuffing box is shot, I can see every clamp is rusted over, as for the hose, I don't know what it is, but it's not black. He wants to string align the strut shaft from the coupler, as there is no way of knowing if the current alignment is still valid given the age of the boat, plus the shaft should be inspected for wear. Seems to be pretty valid reasoning, backeed up by closer inspection of the drive train. I'm slowly working my way down into the cockpit hatch, I removed the batteries along with the battery box this weekend, trying to get a better look at the shaft. I'd climb in, but there's some question I'd make it out again (I'm 6-5 and 225 lbs) The shaft coupler is about as rusted over as anything I've ever seen. I soaked it with liquid wrench, but if that shaft slides out it's going be a minor miracle. Anyone come up with a better place to locate a battery bank instead of against the fuel tank? My question to everyone is, can the shaft be removed without removing the rudder, and if not, how deep do you dig the hole? Cheers larry
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