Can the Shaft be removed without dropping the rudder? I have viewed posts that say yes and some say no. My plan is to replace the Shaft and Coupler. I am still undecided if I will add a PSS Shaft Seal or replace the traditional Stuffing Box. I need a new Cutlass and have already authorized the yard to replace. I figured if he would pull the prop and remove the existing Cutlass than I could cut the old Shaft out. Bring it to a local Machine/Prop Shop and have a new SS Shaft fabricated. I will only do the work if I know I do not have to drop the Rudder as well. I have installed a new Rudder a few years back so the work does not bother me. It is the cost of having the boat lifted and blocked. If the new Shaft can pass the rudder then the job is a go. My other question is will my Cambell Bronze Propeller be a problem if I use a Stainless Steel Shaft? Obviously, I will continue to have at least 2 Zincs on the Shaft as I currently have in place. The boat is hauled every fall so the zincs are replaced annually.
Shaft Replacement
- Thread starter chief14326
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The answer should be easy and obvious....in that if the rudder is in the way (at all angles after turning the helm back and forth) so that the shaft cannot be slid out without the rudder getting in the way, then the answer is you must remove the rudder. That is a pain and I feel for you. But, it is a fact of life. Sometimes after removing the prop there is enough room to slip the shaft by the rudder when it is turned one way or another, but if that isn't the case, then remove the rudder.
I am in the process of doing this job now, my shaft came out with out removing the rudder (my boat is a 79), and if you are removing the shaft changing the cutlass is easy to do your self, once the shaft is out take a hacksaw blade and cut through the old bearing in a couple of places and then use a screwdriver to tap the parts out. Then use a piece of threaded rod (1/2") 2 nuts 2 thick washers bigger than the bearing, put the rod through the new bearing and cutlass put a washer and nut on each end and tighten until the new bearing is in. A tip is to put the new bearing in the freezer the night before to shrink it slightly then keep it on ice until the last minute.
No, the rudder does not have to be removed. I've done it on my C30 and rudder removal was not necessary.
Thanks for the replies. I am still not sure if I am going to proceed. Does anyone know what the exact length of the Shaft would be on an 89? Also, once the old shaft is cut out is it easy to get a replacement shaft and coupling? I have a local Prop/Machine Shop that I plan on talking to. I am also concerned about re-assembly. Do I go with a Solid Coupling or as some have suggested use a Split model? Also is it easy to reassemble? I will need to make a decision by the weekend.
One more question. If I do not go with the PSS which I most likely will not due to cost. Where can I get a replacement Stuffing Box and does anyone know what size. I know the Shaft is 1", but I am not sure what size connects to the Stern Tube and Log.
You'll need to measure the shaft as they are not all the same length.... Is the shaft in bad shape? I wouldn't bother with cutting and replacing unless it really needed to be replaced.... I recently replaced a failing shaft seal in my 1980 cat 30... Replaced it with a pss.... Also replaced the prop while I was at it. The whole thing took only half a day.... Would have been quicker but I forgot one of my puller sets at home so I had to continue using the progressively longer bolts with washers technique.... Reused the shaft and coupler with no problems... My shaft had plenty of grooves from the old seal... But the design of the pss is extremely forgiving of that problem...
Have fun
Have fun
There should be no need for a new stuffing box, just the hose. Buy a brass wire wheel and install it on your bench grinder and you'll have a like new stuffing box in about 5 minutes..
Chief,
The replies from the guys you can take to the bank. The angle of the shaft is designed to slide free (mine was to the right of the rudder) looking forward from the rear of the boat.
A few things to keep in mind. There is more cost involved but it's the ol "Do it right, do it once". A friend years ago said that since he had a PSS put in, he has dust in his bilge.
Put my first one in 15 years ago. I changed it out about 5 years ago, then found out it was unnecessary. I have to do alot of hard motoring in my area due to current, and have had no problems with the PSS.
Second, a good yard should have a mechanical extractor for removing the cutlass bearing. My bearing housing was installed by cutting a hole thru the hull and my base flange was mudded in from inside the boat. A poor design as during a haulout years ago, the yard beat out the old cutlass bearing, and unknowing to me, cracked the mudded in glass. My first overniter, I heard the bilge pump run constantly. Water was gushing in, hence back to the yard & arguing with those pirates. Give explicit instructions not to bang it out if you have the same design.
Thirdly, I would replace the shaft if going with a PSS. There may be some scoring (from years of packing material) in the area where the PSS would be located. I went with a stainless shaft & have not had problems with the bronze prop.
In conclusion: It would be worth it if keeping the boat, to go with a PSS vs. packing gland. no more changing out flax, no green water in the bilge. Green water belongs on the outside of the boat, not the inside pal.
CR
The replies from the guys you can take to the bank. The angle of the shaft is designed to slide free (mine was to the right of the rudder) looking forward from the rear of the boat.
A few things to keep in mind. There is more cost involved but it's the ol "Do it right, do it once". A friend years ago said that since he had a PSS put in, he has dust in his bilge.
Put my first one in 15 years ago. I changed it out about 5 years ago, then found out it was unnecessary. I have to do alot of hard motoring in my area due to current, and have had no problems with the PSS.
Second, a good yard should have a mechanical extractor for removing the cutlass bearing. My bearing housing was installed by cutting a hole thru the hull and my base flange was mudded in from inside the boat. A poor design as during a haulout years ago, the yard beat out the old cutlass bearing, and unknowing to me, cracked the mudded in glass. My first overniter, I heard the bilge pump run constantly. Water was gushing in, hence back to the yard & arguing with those pirates. Give explicit instructions not to bang it out if you have the same design.
Thirdly, I would replace the shaft if going with a PSS. There may be some scoring (from years of packing material) in the area where the PSS would be located. I went with a stainless shaft & have not had problems with the bronze prop.
In conclusion: It would be worth it if keeping the boat, to go with a PSS vs. packing gland. no more changing out flax, no green water in the bilge. Green water belongs on the outside of the boat, not the inside pal.
CR
Sorry to slightly hijack, but does anyone have pictures of using the PSS in a 1980's Mk1? I did the coupling repack last year and felt there wasn't enough room between the shaft "tube" and the transmission flange to fit a PSS. I didn't even think there was enough room for a flexible coupling on our boat.
Rob
Rob
Rob,
I have the 1980 30C. It was tight room working the old stuffing box, but even when upgrading to the 3M20a from the 5411, after installing the PSS, I have 2" between the PSS shaft seal collar & flange @ the motor. I can take a pic if needed today.
Or, just measure from the back of the shaft tube hose to the flange. Look at the PSS web site for approx. length & that should tell ya if it will fit.
I can put in a tape measure if you want. You, should take a measurement of your area and with mine, we'll know right away.
Also when I put the PSS in, the high polished collar is set screwed in. Never trusting setscrews, I cut a 2" long piece of thick wall 1" PVC pipe. I cut it in half lengthwise and placed them around the shaft using 2 hose clamps to secure them to the shaft. This being between the collar & flange ensures that the collar does not slide forward.
But from what I had & did, and from what you have, you should not have a problem pal.....
CR
I have the 1980 30C. It was tight room working the old stuffing box, but even when upgrading to the 3M20a from the 5411, after installing the PSS, I have 2" between the PSS shaft seal collar & flange @ the motor. I can take a pic if needed today.
Or, just measure from the back of the shaft tube hose to the flange. Look at the PSS web site for approx. length & that should tell ya if it will fit.
I can put in a tape measure if you want. You, should take a measurement of your area and with mine, we'll know right away.
Also when I put the PSS in, the high polished collar is set screwed in. Never trusting setscrews, I cut a 2" long piece of thick wall 1" PVC pipe. I cut it in half lengthwise and placed them around the shaft using 2 hose clamps to secure them to the shaft. This being between the collar & flange ensures that the collar does not slide forward.
But from what I had & did, and from what you have, you should not have a problem pal.....
CR
I replaced my shaft last year (along with the engine, prop, cutlass bearing, coupling, etc.) but couldn't get it past the rudder, even with the prop removed. I have the newer rudder design on a '75 C-30.
There is only one tiny area where the o rings touch the shaft on a pss install.... And even then, the rings are stationary and turn with the shaft... So there is Very few shafts that 'must' be replaced do to scoring... I do all my own work not because I cheap out on things, but because I want to know its done right... And I philosophy has always been " if it breaks, upgrade it" .... And I still don't recommend replacing an otherwise good shaft do to scoring when going to a pss....
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