Hi, I'm about to embark on the dreaded mission of replacing my stuffing box with one of those P.S.S. set ups. Before I tear the old set up apart, I was wondering if anyone else has done this with the 33 and can tell me what the diameter of the tube coming through the hull is so I can get the right size P.S.S. before I remove the old set up. Also, any helpfull suggestions? Thanks, Ernie
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Boat Info
If it helps, the Boat Information tab on the Home Page will tell you the shaft size of the boat. Otherwise, I think your best bet would be to call Hunter in Florida.
If it helps, the Boat Information tab on the Home Page will tell you the shaft size of the boat. Otherwise, I think your best bet would be to call Hunter in Florida.
Helpful suggestion
Is's a few years ago that I installed my PSS. 2" comes to mind as the diameter if the stern fitting, but I could be way off. What is important is to pay very close attention to the bolts that hold in the bronze stern tube. On my 1983 they used bolts about 2" long which would have chafed through the neoprene bellows if I hadn't noticed. The only way I could come up with to cut them was to use an air powered abrasive cutoff tool. Lots of noise. If you want I could probably find the stuffing box I removed and measure it. You might just be better off measuring what's on your boat just to be sure. Oh yeah; the PSS is just dandy! Just don't forget to burp when going into the water!
Is's a few years ago that I installed my PSS. 2" comes to mind as the diameter if the stern fitting, but I could be way off. What is important is to pay very close attention to the bolts that hold in the bronze stern tube. On my 1983 they used bolts about 2" long which would have chafed through the neoprene bellows if I hadn't noticed. The only way I could come up with to cut them was to use an air powered abrasive cutoff tool. Lots of noise. If you want I could probably find the stuffing box I removed and measure it. You might just be better off measuring what's on your boat just to be sure. Oh yeah; the PSS is just dandy! Just don't forget to burp when going into the water!
Just done that.
I replaced the stuffing box on my '81 H-33 this past winter with the PSS from PYI. (Did the same thing on my '81 Watkins 27 three years ago). My Cherubini has a 1" prop shaft, and a 1-3/4" shaft log. Here's a suggestion I took from PYI. The 'low speed' PSS requires you to 'burp' the seal each time you put the boat back into the water, otherwise air remains trapped in the seal, and without water to cool it, it can over heat. The 'high speed' PSS has a fitting for water injection, for us sailors though, double clamp a reinforced hose to the fitting, and lead the hose well above your water line and secure to a bulkhead or whatever. When the boat is put back in the water, the air vents out, water cools the seal and all is right in the world. I purchased my first one direct from PYI, my second one cost a lot less from Defenders $215 without shipping (I live near them). You might consider replacing your cutless bearing too, it's a Morse Bonito 1 x 1.5 x 4 about $60. To do that you have to pull the shaft, which normally means pulling the rudder, I took a different approach. My shaft strut was in need of re-beddding anyway, so I pulled the shaft strut which allowed plenty of room to pull the shaft past the rudder. If you decide to try this route, and run into trouble removing the two screws that hold the strut, hollar. I came up with a technique for that too. By the way, love the PSS. No stream of water running into the bilge constantly. Easy to install, easier if you remove the engine side panel. We can talk about that also. G'luck, hollar if you have any questions or hit any snags. Dale
I replaced the stuffing box on my '81 H-33 this past winter with the PSS from PYI. (Did the same thing on my '81 Watkins 27 three years ago). My Cherubini has a 1" prop shaft, and a 1-3/4" shaft log. Here's a suggestion I took from PYI. The 'low speed' PSS requires you to 'burp' the seal each time you put the boat back into the water, otherwise air remains trapped in the seal, and without water to cool it, it can over heat. The 'high speed' PSS has a fitting for water injection, for us sailors though, double clamp a reinforced hose to the fitting, and lead the hose well above your water line and secure to a bulkhead or whatever. When the boat is put back in the water, the air vents out, water cools the seal and all is right in the world. I purchased my first one direct from PYI, my second one cost a lot less from Defenders $215 without shipping (I live near them). You might consider replacing your cutless bearing too, it's a Morse Bonito 1 x 1.5 x 4 about $60. To do that you have to pull the shaft, which normally means pulling the rudder, I took a different approach. My shaft strut was in need of re-beddding anyway, so I pulled the shaft strut which allowed plenty of room to pull the shaft past the rudder. If you decide to try this route, and run into trouble removing the two screws that hold the strut, hollar. I came up with a technique for that too. By the way, love the PSS. No stream of water running into the bilge constantly. Easy to install, easier if you remove the engine side panel. We can talk about that also. G'luck, hollar if you have any questions or hit any snags. Dale
Me again!
Hey Ernie, I just noticed you're in New London. I'm at the Sub-Base. My friend Joe keeps his '81 Cherubini H-33 at Pine Island, so we've got the river covered. Feel free to hollar if you need help, or have any questions. Dale
Hey Ernie, I just noticed you're in New London. I'm at the Sub-Base. My friend Joe keeps his '81 Cherubini H-33 at Pine Island, so we've got the river covered. Feel free to hollar if you need help, or have any questions. Dale
Thanks Dale ( and Sam and Paul)
I got the coupling separated yesterday, and tomorrow I hope(!!!) to get the shaft loose. I pulled the old "boot" off the shaft log and I get a measurement of 2". BTW, Dale, a long time ago I replaced the engine panel and fitted it with wing bolts so I can quickly and painlessly open it in a hurry if need be. One question remains though. Since the shaft is so hard to remove, am I going to face a headache trying to get it back together? Thanks again for all of your help!!!!! Ernie
I got the coupling separated yesterday, and tomorrow I hope(!!!) to get the shaft loose. I pulled the old "boot" off the shaft log and I get a measurement of 2". BTW, Dale, a long time ago I replaced the engine panel and fitted it with wing bolts so I can quickly and painlessly open it in a hurry if need be. One question remains though. Since the shaft is so hard to remove, am I going to face a headache trying to get it back together? Thanks again for all of your help!!!!! Ernie
Reassembly
My Watkins was hard to get apart, and hard to put back together. The Cherubini wasn't so corroded. What I did with the Watkins was use fine, about 320 grit, wet-dry sandpaper to clean up the end of the shaft, and wrapped some around a dowel to do the inside of the shaft coupling until the two could be slid together easily. When I reassembled both, I put a thin film of anti-sieze on to make sure they come apart next time.
My Watkins was hard to get apart, and hard to put back together. The Cherubini wasn't so corroded. What I did with the Watkins was use fine, about 320 grit, wet-dry sandpaper to clean up the end of the shaft, and wrapped some around a dowel to do the inside of the shaft coupling until the two could be slid together easily. When I reassembled both, I put a thin film of anti-sieze on to make sure they come apart next time.
Sturn Tube OD, Cutlass Bearing
Just about to either change to a PSS or new stuffing box. On my 82 H33 , Stern Tube OD is 1.3/4" - and yes a 1" shaft. Also , has anyone used the strutpro bearing remover , looks slick and claims that removing the cutlas is done in 15 minutes without dropping the rudder.
Just about to either change to a PSS or new stuffing box. On my 82 H33 , Stern Tube OD is 1.3/4" - and yes a 1" shaft. Also , has anyone used the strutpro bearing remover , looks slick and claims that removing the cutlas is done in 15 minutes without dropping the rudder.
Definitive help
While standung at my work bench pondering the pile of fittings that will become the plumbing for my new holding tank I realized I was staring at the label end of the box my PSS shaft seal came in. (NEVER throw ANYTHING away!) The PYI reference (part) number was: 01-100-112. I also found the old packing box (you never know when you might need one). The stub end measured 1.622" and the raised lip, or barb measured 1.732, but I think the number they use is 1 3/4"
While standung at my work bench pondering the pile of fittings that will become the plumbing for my new holding tank I realized I was staring at the label end of the box my PSS shaft seal came in. (NEVER throw ANYTHING away!) The PYI reference (part) number was: 01-100-112. I also found the old packing box (you never know when you might need one). The stub end measured 1.622" and the raised lip, or barb measured 1.732, but I think the number they use is 1 3/4"
Shaft Log
My 1980 H33 had a log that was 1-5/8" The PSS 1-1/2" seal was flexible enough to stretch over and fit.
My 1980 H33 had a log that was 1-5/8" The PSS 1-1/2" seal was flexible enough to stretch over and fit.
WHEW!! I got it!
Hey guys! I got it! It turns out the shaft log was 1 1/2", and the new "stuffing box" went on without a hitch. Everything even went back together painlessly. Thanks to all for your support! Ernie
Hey guys! I got it! It turns out the shaft log was 1 1/2", and the new "stuffing box" went on without a hitch. Everything even went back together painlessly. Thanks to all for your support! Ernie
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