Shaft Coupling

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betzhunter

betzhunter

.
Apr 14, 2010
248
Hunter 34 Slidell, La.
After installing my new strut and replacing my 4 motor mounts on our hunter 34 it appears that my shaft coupling is not round. We couldn't get the .000" - .003" that we needed to align the shaft. We put a dial gauge on it and found it to be out .010" and thus causing a wobble. Since we replaced all the above items I guess I should replace the coupling as well. My only problem is my coupling has the set screws at 12 and 6 the one that looks like it is a match for me shows the set screws at 12 and 3. Unless i am not looking at the correct coupling on our host parts house what should I do. Can I use the new off set set screws and drill a bore in the shaft or is this going to throw the shaft off because of the extra bore. The parts # that fits my coupling is #50mcy00410 (Buck Algonquin) it is a solid coupling.

Just for your info we did have the shaft checked and it is true and the transmission flange is also true.

Also since this is the coupling that is on the boat does it mean this is the correct one??? Any other h34 owners jump in here and let me know if I have the soliid or split coupling ??

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Bub
 
kloudie1

kloudie1

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Nov 6, 2006
10,058
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Bub, my coupling has the setscrews at 12 and 6..I think it is the original one to the boat.. if ya get the bore correct (0.000 TO -.001) on the new one the 12-3 will be OK.. yes ya have to dimple the shaft for the new screw position and it will not mess up the shaft..
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

.
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
betzhunter said:
After installing my new strut and replacing my 4 motor mounts on our hunter 34 it appears that my shaft coupling is not round. We couldn't get the .000" - .003" that we needed to align the shaft. We put a dial gauge on it and found it to be out .010" and thus causing a wobble. Since we replaced all the above items I guess I should replace the coupling as well. My only problem is my coupling has the set screws at 12 and 6 the one that looks like it is a match for me shows the set screws at 12 and 3. Unless i am not looking at the correct coupling on our host parts house what should I do. Can I use the new off set set screws and drill a bore in the shaft or is this going to throw the shaft off because of the extra bore. The parts # that fits my coupling is #50mcy00410 (Buck Algonquin) it is a solid coupling.

Just for your info we did have the shaft checked and it is true and the transmission flange is also true.

This is a freshly faced coupling still in the lathe. It is cut in a similar fashion to a brake rotor..

Also since this is the coupling that is on the boat does it mean this is the correct one??? Any other h34 owners jump in here and let me know if I have the soliid or split coupling ??

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Bub
Click to expand
If the fit of the old coupling to the shaft is good, light press interference fit, then just take it to a machine shop and have it "faced"... .010 is out by a LOT... You are trying to align for .002-.003"...

A new coupling will need to be both "fitted & faced"... This is a freshly faced coupling still in the lathe. It is cut in a similar fashion to a brake rotor..
 
betzhunter

betzhunter

.
Apr 14, 2010
248
Hunter 34 Slidell, La.
kloudie1 said:
Bub, my coupling has the setscrews at 12 and 6..I think it is the original one to the boat.. if ya get the bore correct (0.000 TO -.001) on the new one the 12-3 will be OK.. yes ya have to dimple the shaft for the new screw position and it will not mess up the shaft..
Click to expand
OK thanks Claude
 
betzhunter

betzhunter

.
Apr 14, 2010
248
Hunter 34 Slidell, La.
Maine Sail said:
If the fit of the old coupling to the shaft is good, light press interference fit, then just take it to a machine shop and have it "faced"... .010 is out by a LOT... You are trying to align for .002-.003"...

A new coupling will need to be both "fitted & faced"... This is a freshly faced coupling still in the lathe. It is cut in a similar fashion to a brake rotor..
Click to expand
So if I replace the coupling then I have to take the prop shaft out and have it "fited and faced" otherwise just have a machine shop re face the original one.

Ok thanks
 
kloudie1

kloudie1

.
Nov 6, 2006
10,058
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Someone really good with a micrometer can measure the shaft fit and it should not be necessary to pull the boat and shaft .. When the new flange is bored, the machinist should be able to face it so long as he does not move the flange in the jaws between those two operations.. Explain to him in advance so that he sets up to do that from the beginning if he is not used to doing that ..
EDIT: Ya need to know that your shaft is dead straight to have this come out successfully
 
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