Does anyone know of a website, which explains the proper way to align a shaft without buying a million dollars worth of tool. My new motor is in the cabin on the floor, and the old one out on a pallet on the ground. It looks like I will have to move the new one forawrd a few inches, but the is room to spare. All other things seem fine. Plenty of room for the motor mounts and the height of the shaft, as it relates to the motor seems fine, but time will tell. Is there some type of gauge that one uses. There is no room for a vibration damper, but I am told if the shaft alignment is good then there is no need for one.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
R
Royce
What engine?
Bob, What engine are you repowering with? I repowered my 76 h30 with a Vetus m310. It's a 3 cyclinder 22 hp engine. I had to shorten the prop shaft, but I did use a damper. Good luck, Royce
Bob, What engine are you repowering with? I repowered my 76 h30 with a Vetus m310. It's a 3 cyclinder 22 hp engine. I had to shorten the prop shaft, but I did use a damper. Good luck, Royce
B
Bob
What Engine??
I am putting a Vetus 3.09 in, its 25 HP. The left to right, and front to rear motor mounts are the same dimension as the Yanmar, but the transmission is longer. I need to pick up about 4 1/2" and I am reasonably sure I can just move the motor forward that much, and maybe more. I am hoping I dont have to shorten the shaft. There was a vibration damper on the old motor, but I don't think I will have room for one this time. What vibration damper did You use. Where did you get it. I like the idea, but space is at a premium.
I am putting a Vetus 3.09 in, its 25 HP. The left to right, and front to rear motor mounts are the same dimension as the Yanmar, but the transmission is longer. I need to pick up about 4 1/2" and I am reasonably sure I can just move the motor forward that much, and maybe more. I am hoping I dont have to shorten the shaft. There was a vibration damper on the old motor, but I don't think I will have room for one this time. What vibration damper did You use. Where did you get it. I like the idea, but space is at a premium.
G
Guest
M3.10
are almost identical. You will also need to replace your prop as the YSE12 is a left hand rotation and your new engine is right hand rotation. My shaft was a bronz shaft that came with the boat and I replaced it with a SS shaft. I shortened up the shaft, the stuffing gland, and the hose that attaches the stuffing gland to the thru hull. As far as aligning the engine the only "special" tool you need are a set of feeler gauges.
are almost identical. You will also need to replace your prop as the YSE12 is a left hand rotation and your new engine is right hand rotation. My shaft was a bronz shaft that came with the boat and I replaced it with a SS shaft. I shortened up the shaft, the stuffing gland, and the hose that attaches the stuffing gland to the thru hull. As far as aligning the engine the only "special" tool you need are a set of feeler gauges.
V
V Peterson
Alignment
Here are a couple of sites, there are others: http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/engine.htm http://www.yachtsurvey.com/Alignment2.htm
Here are a couple of sites, there are others: http://www.nsc.ca/techtalk/engine.htm http://www.yachtsurvey.com/Alignment2.htm
E
ed
cheap way
this is the cheap way to get it straight. use the procedure outlined in the link but you can use a dollar bill. pick a pretty new one and the thickness is about right. it will save you about 5 bucks for a feeler gage. this is not a difficult thing to do but you need a lot of patience to do it. make a sketch showing what will happen to the cupling alignment if you adjust a mount. front up makes the bottom open front down the reverse. the key is to start with the shaft in the center of the opening. move the shaft up and down and back and forth untill you find the center. then block it there. carefully adjust till you get it straight.
this is the cheap way to get it straight. use the procedure outlined in the link but you can use a dollar bill. pick a pretty new one and the thickness is about right. it will save you about 5 bucks for a feeler gage. this is not a difficult thing to do but you need a lot of patience to do it. make a sketch showing what will happen to the cupling alignment if you adjust a mount. front up makes the bottom open front down the reverse. the key is to start with the shaft in the center of the opening. move the shaft up and down and back and forth untill you find the center. then block it there. carefully adjust till you get it straight.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.