Just 2 weeks ago I decided to replace my mainsail slugs as part of a successful attempt to make hoisting and dousing smoother. (I also cleaned and lubed the mast track--the difference is amazing!) I then noticed that the four slugs that correspond to the battens are sewn in, and I couldn't replace them. Today one of those broke. I suppose a canvas shop can replace those four, but it seems like the method used (webbing threaded thru the slug and stitched to the batten pocket) creates unneccesary torque. Has anyone else come across this, and is there a better solution short of the expensive car systems I saw at the boat show? In case it matters, my sail is Doyle, and I'm pretty sure it's original to my 1995 H26. Also, when I reinstall the main I'm thinking of installing it loose-footed (i.e. the slug near the clew will go into the boom track, but not the boltrope.) Is this feasable, and is it a good idea?
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David Foster
Get to know a sailmaker
Mine would consult on and fix a problem like this with minimum cost. They provide this kind of service knowing that this is how to be there when you think of replacement. David Lady Lillie '77 h27
Mine would consult on and fix a problem like this with minimum cost. They provide this kind of service knowing that this is how to be there when you think of replacement. David Lady Lillie '77 h27
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Steve O.
options
Coincidentally, I have the same problem. You could get some webbing and sew it yourself, but a sailmaker can do it better, stronger and neater. I don't have a sailmaker near me, so I haven't decided which way I'm going to go. I don't know how much they would charge. I would not rig your sail loose-footed. It is not designed that way, and therefore would not be as efficient.
Coincidentally, I have the same problem. You could get some webbing and sew it yourself, but a sailmaker can do it better, stronger and neater. I don't have a sailmaker near me, so I haven't decided which way I'm going to go. I don't know how much they would charge. I would not rig your sail loose-footed. It is not designed that way, and therefore would not be as efficient.
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Tim S.
Sail Slides
A sailmaker could handle both your questions. From Gainesville, you should just ship it to the Doyle Loft in Clearwater FL. It should not cost much to ship. Loose footed mains are actually more efficient than one with a blolt rope or slides. Notice that racing mains are virtually all loose footed. You could just use the clew slug and remove the foot from the boom. However, if you want to go that route, you should have the sailmaker remove the bolt rope and put a foot line in the sail. Again, this is not a complicated recut and should be reasonably inexpensive.
A sailmaker could handle both your questions. From Gainesville, you should just ship it to the Doyle Loft in Clearwater FL. It should not cost much to ship. Loose footed mains are actually more efficient than one with a blolt rope or slides. Notice that racing mains are virtually all loose footed. You could just use the clew slug and remove the foot from the boom. However, if you want to go that route, you should have the sailmaker remove the bolt rope and put a foot line in the sail. Again, this is not a complicated recut and should be reasonably inexpensive.
Emergency repair for broken webbing
Keep a few of those large nylon electrical cable ties on board (The good ones are about 3 ft long). If a webbing strap breaks while you are out sailing, you can replace it with one of these little goodies in about 10 sec. Just cut off the excess (make sure the cut end doesn't chafe the main), hoist the sail and keep going. If you can't find the really big ones (try Home Depot electrical dept) use a couple of the smaller ones. Peter H23 "Raven"
Keep a few of those large nylon electrical cable ties on board (The good ones are about 3 ft long). If a webbing strap breaks while you are out sailing, you can replace it with one of these little goodies in about 10 sec. Just cut off the excess (make sure the cut end doesn't chafe the main), hoist the sail and keep going. If you can't find the really big ones (try Home Depot electrical dept) use a couple of the smaller ones. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Steve O.
loose-footed main
A loose-footed main may be more efficient, but not when the original design was for sail slides or bolt rope. I certainly would not remove the slides and use it in that manner, which would de-value the sail IMHO. The main would have to be re-cut by a sailmaker to use as a loose-footed sail. Whether the main is worth re-cutting (7 year-old sail?) is a decision Tom would have to make.
A loose-footed main may be more efficient, but not when the original design was for sail slides or bolt rope. I certainly would not remove the slides and use it in that manner, which would de-value the sail IMHO. The main would have to be re-cut by a sailmaker to use as a loose-footed sail. Whether the main is worth re-cutting (7 year-old sail?) is a decision Tom would have to make.
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Mark
electrical wire tie
Same thing happened here a couple of years back. Slide broke but webbing was intact. Simply attached new slide to webbing with a nylon electrical wire tie. I've been sailing that way ever since.
Same thing happened here a couple of years back. Slide broke but webbing was intact. Simply attached new slide to webbing with a nylon electrical wire tie. I've been sailing that way ever since.
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Thomas Tongue
Clean Mast Track
How did you clean your mast track and what did you use for lubricant? My main is getting more and more stubborn when I release the halyard. Tom/DFW
How did you clean your mast track and what did you use for lubricant? My main is getting more and more stubborn when I release the halyard. Tom/DFW
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Tom Wootton
Cleaning mast track
I used a package of sponges (the kind that have one green scrubber side, about 3" by 5".) I attached the top part of the first sponge to the halyard shackle with a piece of wire, then attached a 'messenger' line to the shackle and wired the lower part of the sponge to it. I jammed the top edge of the sponge into the mast track and fed it in so that one long edge of the sponge was inside the track. Then I saturated the sponge with Formula 409 and ran it up the mast with the halyard, and pulled it back down with the messenger line (I made sure my messenger line was long enough to reach the masthead.) I did that slowly about 20 times, using both edges of the sponge and re-applying the 409 each time. After the movement had improved somewhat and the sponge was more-or-less clean, I switched to a dry sponge for a few passes, then another, this time saturated with Mclube or Sailkote, I can't remember which. Did that about a dozen times. then I reattached the sail (after replacing the slugs that weren't sewn in) and raised it with almost no effort. When I let the halyard go, the main dropped like a shot, all the way down. I was shocked at the improvement. It's only been 2 weeks, but so far it's still working like the day I did it (except for the one broken slug).
I used a package of sponges (the kind that have one green scrubber side, about 3" by 5".) I attached the top part of the first sponge to the halyard shackle with a piece of wire, then attached a 'messenger' line to the shackle and wired the lower part of the sponge to it. I jammed the top edge of the sponge into the mast track and fed it in so that one long edge of the sponge was inside the track. Then I saturated the sponge with Formula 409 and ran it up the mast with the halyard, and pulled it back down with the messenger line (I made sure my messenger line was long enough to reach the masthead.) I did that slowly about 20 times, using both edges of the sponge and re-applying the 409 each time. After the movement had improved somewhat and the sponge was more-or-less clean, I switched to a dry sponge for a few passes, then another, this time saturated with Mclube or Sailkote, I can't remember which. Did that about a dozen times. then I reattached the sail (after replacing the slugs that weren't sewn in) and raised it with almost no effort. When I let the halyard go, the main dropped like a shot, all the way down. I was shocked at the improvement. It's only been 2 weeks, but so far it's still working like the day I did it (except for the one broken slug).
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Frank
Do it yourself.
Remove the webbing with a seam ripper and add a new slug. Then restitch it with a needle and sail thread. Later this year around fall or winter you can send it to the sailmaker and wait the four to eight weeks for a proper repair. When this happened to me I fixed it myself and got an estimate on getting my sail repaired and modified. I ended up buying a new main and now have a spare.
Remove the webbing with a seam ripper and add a new slug. Then restitch it with a needle and sail thread. Later this year around fall or winter you can send it to the sailmaker and wait the four to eight weeks for a proper repair. When this happened to me I fixed it myself and got an estimate on getting my sail repaired and modified. I ended up buying a new main and now have a spare.
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