I am replacing the main halyard on my Oday 23 with 5/16 inch sta-set x. The previous owner attached the shackles by tying bowlines, but I don't like that approach. I tried splicing without success, so I am wondering if anyone has tried seizing a shackle onto a main halyard? My Sailors Handbook (Halsey Herreshoff) says that seizing is an alternative way to join ropes or make eyes if it is not possible to splice them. Any other ideas?
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Pay a pro.
Kevin: The first thing is you did not need Sta-Setx. It is not a very forgiving line. We had Sta-setx on our H'31 and it worked fine for the first year and then it became almost impossible to lift the mainsail. I changed over to Sta-set and went with a smaller line and everything was fine. I suggest that you just take your line and shackle to a rigger and let them make the splice. It will cost you about $15 and will be done properly. Be sure that you have used an oversized line. This is a common mistake. Any increase in line diameter is going to cause increased friction and Sta-setx just makes it worse.
Kevin: The first thing is you did not need Sta-Setx. It is not a very forgiving line. We had Sta-setx on our H'31 and it worked fine for the first year and then it became almost impossible to lift the mainsail. I changed over to Sta-set and went with a smaller line and everything was fine. I suggest that you just take your line and shackle to a rigger and let them make the splice. It will cost you about $15 and will be done properly. Be sure that you have used an oversized line. This is a common mistake. Any increase in line diameter is going to cause increased friction and Sta-setx just makes it worse.
Whipping twine
Certainly you could put two seizings on with synthetic whipping twine. If you have room, use something like an anchor bend on the shackle and seize the rope's bitter end to the standing part. Inspect periodically. I also agree with the other post about type of line and professional splices. WM sells ready made halyards with spliced shackles, or you can send your stuff to their/another rigging shop, or just order what you want.
Certainly you could put two seizings on with synthetic whipping twine. If you have room, use something like an anchor bend on the shackle and seize the rope's bitter end to the standing part. Inspect periodically. I also agree with the other post about type of line and professional splices. WM sells ready made halyards with spliced shackles, or you can send your stuff to their/another rigging shop, or just order what you want.
Don't seize, please...
Kevin, you picked a very difficult type of cordage to splice because it has a parallel core(not braided) that is wrapped in a filament. I hate that stuff. It can be spliced if you have a little patience, but you'll have to get special instructions from the New England Ropes website. I love making my own splices and I suggest you give it another try with a standard double braid such as Samson XLS or Hew England Sta-set. You can use the sta-set x for another application such as a topping lift. Go to the rope maker's website for splicing instructions. The popular thing to do now, regarding halyard shackles, is to splice in a large loop and attach the shackle "luggage tag" style. That is a stronger connection and you can remove the shackle without cutting the rope. Have fun with it, and stay away from sta-set x from now on.
Kevin, you picked a very difficult type of cordage to splice because it has a parallel core(not braided) that is wrapped in a filament. I hate that stuff. It can be spliced if you have a little patience, but you'll have to get special instructions from the New England Ropes website. I love making my own splices and I suggest you give it another try with a standard double braid such as Samson XLS or Hew England Sta-set. You can use the sta-set x for another application such as a topping lift. Go to the rope maker's website for splicing instructions. The popular thing to do now, regarding halyard shackles, is to splice in a large loop and attach the shackle "luggage tag" style. That is a stronger connection and you can remove the shackle without cutting the rope. Have fun with it, and stay away from sta-set x from now on.
Magic Splicing Tool
Try using the magic splicing tool I developed specifically for this purpose. This tool can be purchased free of charge by looking in the archives for the picture, going to the closet, getting a coat hanger, and making the tool. It works like magic. Dave
Try using the magic splicing tool I developed specifically for this purpose. This tool can be purchased free of charge by looking in the archives for the picture, going to the closet, getting a coat hanger, and making the tool. It works like magic. Dave
A good one to throw money at
Even at the Chigago sail boat show there was no one there who would admit to being proficient at splicing double braid. When I replaced the running rig on my 28' I sent the old line off to New England Rope, shackles and all, and told 'em to splice the shackles I sent to a new rope. They had the correct length since I sent the old halyards. In about ten days and about $150 I had my new halyards with my old shackles properly spliced in place.
Even at the Chigago sail boat show there was no one there who would admit to being proficient at splicing double braid. When I replaced the running rig on my 28' I sent the old line off to New England Rope, shackles and all, and told 'em to splice the shackles I sent to a new rope. They had the correct length since I sent the old halyards. In about ten days and about $150 I had my new halyards with my old shackles properly spliced in place.
Dave (Mystic)
Your magic splicing tool photo is no longer in the archive, would you re-post? I'm intrigued.
Your magic splicing tool photo is no longer in the archive, would you re-post? I'm intrigued.
Strength vs looks
Seizing the shackle to the line is not going to be a stronger attachment than a knot. Creating a loop with a seizing, to which the shackle is attached, will be prone to chafe and breakage if it runs over the sheave at the top of the mast, or from flogging whenever the sail luffs. Once a strand of the seizing is worn or broken, the whole thing is compromised. If you're not able to get it spliced, use a knot and, if you don't feel secure about the knot, sew it together with sail twine so it can't come undone.
Seizing the shackle to the line is not going to be a stronger attachment than a knot. Creating a loop with a seizing, to which the shackle is attached, will be prone to chafe and breakage if it runs over the sheave at the top of the mast, or from flogging whenever the sail luffs. Once a strand of the seizing is worn or broken, the whole thing is compromised. If you're not able to get it spliced, use a knot and, if you don't feel secure about the knot, sew it together with sail twine so it can't come undone.
Buntline hitch
This knot is VERY easy to tie, takes up less than half the room of a bowline and won't come undone (you have to cut if off). Any book on knots will show you how to tie it. I cut about two feet off the shackle end of the halyard every couple of years to adjust for wear, so a knot works best for me, especially since I don't know how to splice double-braid. On a separate note my Sta-Set X (SSX) halyards are going into their fourth year with no problems. This may be because they are 1/16" smaller than my old halyards (clearances are very tight around the H23 masthead sheaves and I was trying to get a little extra room). Even so, the SSX is still stiffer than regular double-braid. Peter H23 "Raven"
This knot is VERY easy to tie, takes up less than half the room of a bowline and won't come undone (you have to cut if off). Any book on knots will show you how to tie it. I cut about two feet off the shackle end of the halyard every couple of years to adjust for wear, so a knot works best for me, especially since I don't know how to splice double-braid. On a separate note my Sta-Set X (SSX) halyards are going into their fourth year with no problems. This may be because they are 1/16" smaller than my old halyards (clearances are very tight around the H23 masthead sheaves and I was trying to get a little extra room). Even so, the SSX is still stiffer than regular double-braid. Peter H23 "Raven"
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