Am looking for advice on sealing my port holes of my 1981, Hunter 33 Cherubini. Previous owner had replaced them with in the past year but they are still leaking. Should I remove them and begin again? If so what is the best thing to use to seal them? Also Looking for a rebuild kit to convert my stove/oven to propane.
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Richard Marble
Take one off and
see why its leaking. Sounds like he went light on the caulking to me. If he used 5200 good luck getting it off. I would use life caulk to seal them for a couple reasons. # 1 It will seal well. # 2 easy clean up, no need to mask around them etc. just put too much on and let it sqirt out, after the caulk is set up completely take a knife and carefuly cut around the port seperating the excess caulking from the caulk that sealing the port. Then just peal off the excess. # 3 if you ever need to take off the port again it it'll be possible with a little work unlike 5200.
see why its leaking. Sounds like he went light on the caulking to me. If he used 5200 good luck getting it off. I would use life caulk to seal them for a couple reasons. # 1 It will seal well. # 2 easy clean up, no need to mask around them etc. just put too much on and let it sqirt out, after the caulk is set up completely take a knife and carefuly cut around the port seperating the excess caulking from the caulk that sealing the port. Then just peal off the excess. # 3 if you ever need to take off the port again it it'll be possible with a little work unlike 5200.
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Ed Schenck
Sealants and Stoves.
I, like Richard, like LifeCalk. The Related Link is a good discussion of sealants. The main thing is to not use the wrong one with plastic portlights. At Annapolis one year I asked two stove companies about retrofitting my oven/range for propane. They both recommended against it and gave me what seemed like plausible reasons. Naturally they wanted to sell me a new propane stove. Instead I bought a used non-pressurized alcohol stove. I have no room for propane lockers on my H37C.
I, like Richard, like LifeCalk. The Related Link is a good discussion of sealants. The main thing is to not use the wrong one with plastic portlights. At Annapolis one year I asked two stove companies about retrofitting my oven/range for propane. They both recommended against it and gave me what seemed like plausible reasons. Naturally they wanted to sell me a new propane stove. Instead I bought a used non-pressurized alcohol stove. I have no room for propane lockers on my H37C.
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Pat McCartin
Propane conversion
Kev, If you have the original alcohol stove, don't try to convert it. Force 10 has a discount site at; www.first-wavemarine.com They sell reconditioned and dinged stoves. CHEAP You're 33 should have an oven I think & a 2 burner stove. If not let me know. When I converted my 30 I made a stainless bracket and strap and hung my tank off the stern, this resolved all locker issues. The hardest part was finding a hose long enough to mak it to the galley. Pat McCartin former H30 owner Lake Lanier, GA
Kev, If you have the original alcohol stove, don't try to convert it. Force 10 has a discount site at; www.first-wavemarine.com They sell reconditioned and dinged stoves. CHEAP You're 33 should have an oven I think & a 2 burner stove. If not let me know. When I converted my 30 I made a stainless bracket and strap and hung my tank off the stern, this resolved all locker issues. The hardest part was finding a hose long enough to mak it to the galley. Pat McCartin former H30 owner Lake Lanier, GA
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steven f.
sikaflex
I replaced all the port lights on my 1981 H33 last year and used Sikaflex (I think it was the fast cure). I've had zero leaks and it is MUCH easier to remove them than if 5200 was used. Sikaflex has no shrinkage unlike 5200. I've heard of others using silicone with good results but my issue with the silicone is that you can't paint or sand it, 5200 shrinks (though it is a tiny amount) thus opening your ports to leaks. Just my 2 cents worth.
I replaced all the port lights on my 1981 H33 last year and used Sikaflex (I think it was the fast cure). I've had zero leaks and it is MUCH easier to remove them than if 5200 was used. Sikaflex has no shrinkage unlike 5200. I've heard of others using silicone with good results but my issue with the silicone is that you can't paint or sand it, 5200 shrinks (though it is a tiny amount) thus opening your ports to leaks. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Art Childs
ports and propane stoves.
Hi all...seems like everyone goes thru these things at some point. I , too, replaced my stove with propane, a Force 10 unit. I created a proper locker in the stern seat locker by dividing it up with a glassed in partition, and made it isolated from the rest of the boat. Just drilled in a small thru-hull in the transom for a vent, and presto, instant locker. OK, not instant, but pretty quick! I found that certical mounted tanks wouldn't fit, so I got 2 horizontal mounted aluminum tanks. The aluminum was a bit more pricey, but they won't corrode. I measured all the runs for propane lines and had them made up, bought a regulator and gauge, plumbed it all in, and it works perfectly. I also run a Force 10 heater, and Paloma instant hot-water system. Propane is the only way to go. It's clean and safe, the only dawback being the moisture created by burning propane. Leaving the companionway open when cooking helps, as does the "Envirofan" I got for the heater. What an exquisite unit. No electricity, it just sits on the top of the heater, and the heat generates the juice to drive the fan! Perfect for the 12v Nazi in me! It circulates the air in the boat, creating an evenly heated, relatively dry, environment. Up here in BC's Gulf of Georgia, where I do the majority of my sailing, it extends my season to year-round. As for the ports, remove 'em, clean up the holes, epoxy what you can, replace material if you have to, use LOTS of sikaflex when you put them back in, and keep your fingers crossed! Cheers!! CapnArt S/V Aloha 1 Vancouver, BC
Hi all...seems like everyone goes thru these things at some point. I , too, replaced my stove with propane, a Force 10 unit. I created a proper locker in the stern seat locker by dividing it up with a glassed in partition, and made it isolated from the rest of the boat. Just drilled in a small thru-hull in the transom for a vent, and presto, instant locker. OK, not instant, but pretty quick! I found that certical mounted tanks wouldn't fit, so I got 2 horizontal mounted aluminum tanks. The aluminum was a bit more pricey, but they won't corrode. I measured all the runs for propane lines and had them made up, bought a regulator and gauge, plumbed it all in, and it works perfectly. I also run a Force 10 heater, and Paloma instant hot-water system. Propane is the only way to go. It's clean and safe, the only dawback being the moisture created by burning propane. Leaving the companionway open when cooking helps, as does the "Envirofan" I got for the heater. What an exquisite unit. No electricity, it just sits on the top of the heater, and the heat generates the juice to drive the fan! Perfect for the 12v Nazi in me! It circulates the air in the boat, creating an evenly heated, relatively dry, environment. Up here in BC's Gulf of Georgia, where I do the majority of my sailing, it extends my season to year-round. As for the ports, remove 'em, clean up the holes, epoxy what you can, replace material if you have to, use LOTS of sikaflex when you put them back in, and keep your fingers crossed! Cheers!! CapnArt S/V Aloha 1 Vancouver, BC
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