We just bought a 1990 Vision32. Has anyone had any luck rebedding the side windows so that they don't leak. Is there a breakage issue removing them ? Ours looks like all of the ones we looked at......sealed with clear silicone around the tops. Is there anything we should/could do ??
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What I Did
Yes, I did rebed mine and they did not leak thereafter. Call Hunter to get the sealant. It is a 3M product as I recall. Remove the screws that set the plexi in place while the sealant/adhesive is setting up. Remove as much as you can and remove the port. Remove all the sealant and mask off inside and outside. Rebed and you are good to go. Rick D.
Yes, I did rebed mine and they did not leak thereafter. Call Hunter to get the sealant. It is a 3M product as I recall. Remove the screws that set the plexi in place while the sealant/adhesive is setting up. Remove as much as you can and remove the port. Remove all the sealant and mask off inside and outside. Rebed and you are good to go. Rick D.
Dow Corning 795
is what I used but you will probably need to replace the plexiglass because it is hard to get out without damage and the adhesive is tenacious. There was a similar thread earlier this week as I recall. Someone mentioned a different product DC-995? It is not too expensive but I had a little trouble locating some. I also tried Sikaflex and silicon at other times but they never sealed properly.
is what I used but you will probably need to replace the plexiglass because it is hard to get out without damage and the adhesive is tenacious. There was a similar thread earlier this week as I recall. Someone mentioned a different product DC-995? It is not too expensive but I had a little trouble locating some. I also tried Sikaflex and silicon at other times but they never sealed properly.
Cut out the plexiglass with fishing line.
Gene: If you get a small spot cut into the existing caulking you may be able to feed some 90# test line fed through the hole. Then you tie each end around a stick. Have someone give you a hand and pull the fishing line through the caulking. The windows should pop right out. When you recaulk the windows be sure to mask the area off VERY good. The 795 works well but it can be a mess if you are not careful. I think that Hunter will provide a video tape on how to do this if you are interested.
Gene: If you get a small spot cut into the existing caulking you may be able to feed some 90# test line fed through the hole. Then you tie each end around a stick. Have someone give you a hand and pull the fishing line through the caulking. The windows should pop right out. When you recaulk the windows be sure to mask the area off VERY good. The 795 works well but it can be a mess if you are not careful. I think that Hunter will provide a video tape on how to do this if you are interested.
New Plexiglass Windows are Available . . .
from Spartech Marine, 2900 Murrell Road, Rockledge, Florida 32955. Phone (321)-636-7562, fax 321-636-7620) talk to Ben Marx X126. Cost is $295 each plus shipping, 4 weeks delivery. Part numbers are as follows: Port #300730, Stb #300720. These are 3/8" thick, and do not require pre-bending by Spartech, even though they tell you they do. They easily conform to the slight curve of the cabin house. When you take off your old windows, you should find that they have been double sealed. There should be a 1/2" bead of butyl rubber around the inside opening of the windows, and Dow Corning 795 around the outside opening. Near the back corners you will find that the windows cover some of the white fiberglass of the coachroof (more on the side where the head is located), and the white could show thru the tinted plexiglass windows. Hunter used some type of black mylar (?) covering over this area instead of mass quantities of Dow 795. I recovered it with dark tinting material used to tint automobile windows and it has worked fine. When you remove the old windows, they can be brittle. I broke the front end off of one of mine while removing them. The fishline idea would work fine if you can get it started. I used a utility knife to cut the bead on the outside, and they came off without too much difficulty. By the way, my windows were all factory sealed with black Dow 795, and have never leaked. I replaced mine because they became covered with stress fractures and looked terrible when the sun would shine thru. It took two days (and two people) to replace both windows, including the Beckson ports. That included two opening ports per side. Spartech mistakenly cut two openings on both sides, so I accepted them and added an opening port to both sides. During hot summer days, there is never enough air below, so this helps. For the amount of work you are going to go thru, I would consider replacing the windows. Good luck, whichever way you go.
from Spartech Marine, 2900 Murrell Road, Rockledge, Florida 32955. Phone (321)-636-7562, fax 321-636-7620) talk to Ben Marx X126. Cost is $295 each plus shipping, 4 weeks delivery. Part numbers are as follows: Port #300730, Stb #300720. These are 3/8" thick, and do not require pre-bending by Spartech, even though they tell you they do. They easily conform to the slight curve of the cabin house. When you take off your old windows, you should find that they have been double sealed. There should be a 1/2" bead of butyl rubber around the inside opening of the windows, and Dow Corning 795 around the outside opening. Near the back corners you will find that the windows cover some of the white fiberglass of the coachroof (more on the side where the head is located), and the white could show thru the tinted plexiglass windows. Hunter used some type of black mylar (?) covering over this area instead of mass quantities of Dow 795. I recovered it with dark tinting material used to tint automobile windows and it has worked fine. When you remove the old windows, they can be brittle. I broke the front end off of one of mine while removing them. The fishline idea would work fine if you can get it started. I used a utility knife to cut the bead on the outside, and they came off without too much difficulty. By the way, my windows were all factory sealed with black Dow 795, and have never leaked. I replaced mine because they became covered with stress fractures and looked terrible when the sun would shine thru. It took two days (and two people) to replace both windows, including the Beckson ports. That included two opening ports per side. Spartech mistakenly cut two openings on both sides, so I accepted them and added an opening port to both sides. During hot summer days, there is never enough air below, so this helps. For the amount of work you are going to go thru, I would consider replacing the windows. Good luck, whichever way you go.
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