Sealing H23 chain plates

[isaksp00]

We got a lot of rain in the NE Pennsylvania area from Irene and then moisture sucked in by the next storm down in New Orleans. I had about 2 to 3 inches or so of water under the floorboards, above the keel, from each storm, and about the same under the cockpit. The water over the keel was dark brown, like strong tea, and I am pretty sure it seeped in through the port chainplate, maybe some also through other areas where there is wood coring. I think the dark color is from seeping through wood. The wood bulkhead right under the chainplate is wet and the veneer on the edge is peeling off.

I can see the water tracks below the chainplate, and the settee surface was wet, the cushion near the hull was wet, and the "mouse fur" liner near the settee/hull joining is soaked - letting it dry now.

I will have to haul the boat for the season in about 2 weeks. Once out I'll rebed the chainplates, and maybe a few other bits (like the jib sheet tracks, maybe stanchions).

Any advice on how to do? Looks like I just unscrew the deck plate surrounding the chainplate, clean the surfaces, and rebed. Nothing to do inside the cabin - doesn't look like there's access? Think I'll use up my BoatLife LifeCaulk, and if I need more, maybe 3M 4200? Unlike silicone caulk, I assume it is friendly to stainless?

Thanks, Peter

 

[Ed Schenck]

Maine Sail has written extensively about the subject and suggests butyl tape. He even sells it from his website. I have always used clear silicone with excellent results. It stays pliable and does not leak. Every few years I will dig it out and replace it. On my Hunter I have to remove the shroud in order to get the cover off and have room to do it right. I secure a halyard and do the lowers on one side, then the upper, then switch sides.