Sealant for Keel to Stub

Don S/V ILLusion · Apr 25, 2015

The keel joint is one of the few place most internet experts seem to agree is appropriate for using 5200

Maine Sail · Apr 25, 2015

Mackaroni said:
I have read probably hundreds of posts now on the best sealant to use between the keel and stub joint. I have an O'day 302 1988 and am dropping the keel to inspect and possibly replace any bad keel bolts next week.

The yard is recommending 5200, but I am not so sure that is the best option. The advice I have seen online has been very conflicting.

Advice? I need to have something in hand by next week.

Builders use either a resin mix or 5200 generally but SikaFlex 291 or even 4200 work too. Nothing wrong with 5200 for a well installed keel.

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do us a favor and measure the physical thickness of the keel stub (fiberglass) on your 302 when the keel is out. Images with a tape measure clearly visible would be EXCELLENT!!

For example this is a Hunter 34 and while it is a fairly sloppy lay up (lots of non-wetted dry fabric) it is nearly 1" thick or three times as thick as the 322 I measured:

It seems some of these boats were built with stubs as thin or thinner than 1/4" and others considerably thicker. I have seen and personally measured a 322 at approx 1/4" which lost its keel.

I'd love to see one that is thicker, all we have thus far is hearsay, so we can chalk this up to a manufacturer inconsistency rather than a design problem.

Golden Road · Apr 25, 2015

Agree with Maine Sail on measuring stub (shoe) bottom thickness. VERY important. O'Day's late 80's bad corporate owners, lack of oversight, and probably stoned 16 year olds doing the lay-up has led to some near tragic situations. It should be THICK, with no cracks.

dlochner · Apr 26, 2015

5200 is not impossible to remove, just very challenging, especially in tight quarters. There is a product Marine Debond that is helpful and an oscillating tool with the scraping blade can separate the 5200 from whatever it is attached to. The keel is easily accessible, so getting wedges or the oscillating tool in there is not a big issue. On other areas of the boat, this is not the case.

The Tanqueray · Apr 27, 2015

When I purchased my 322 last year I was concerned about the keel sump thickness. I drilled down to the lead a few weeks ago and I have 3/4 inch of fiberglass and no leaks.
My boat is hull #35 and was built before the Leveraged Buyout of O'Day.

I was going to drop the keel this summer but the studs look fine so would be VERY interested in some pictures when you drop the keel.

My boat has now been in salt water for 4-years but hauled 6-months for three of those years.

Thanks,
Gary (Bahamas)

The Tanqueray · Apr 27, 2015

5200 cure

Good Old Boats has an article that says fast cure has the same adhesion and strength as the regular product (7-days to full cure).

IStream · Apr 27, 2015

The slow curing stuff is much runnier. I prefer the fast cure, both because it's got the consistency of toothpaste and because it offers hours of working time, setting up nicely within a couple of days.