I want to replace the sealant on the outside of the boat. It is under the metal trim piece that goes around the boat. I was wondering if there is a special type. What is on there now is like a gray rubber texture and it is old and worn.
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took the words right out of my mouth
jimbo i will add myself to those who need an answer to your question. i have a 69'venture 21 and my caulk (?) under the rub rail is a brick and falling out in places. i intend to use polyeurathane on it, if i don't get a better answer from some kind soul out there. i also need to know if after squeezing the caulk in from the underside, will it stay in place and not sag before it cures, and it goes without saying that theres no room to clean out the gap and insure a good bond. i had in mind acetone and a tooth brush. also is it pressed in all at once or layered? thanks to all
jimbo i will add myself to those who need an answer to your question. i have a 69'venture 21 and my caulk (?) under the rub rail is a brick and falling out in places. i intend to use polyeurathane on it, if i don't get a better answer from some kind soul out there. i also need to know if after squeezing the caulk in from the underside, will it stay in place and not sag before it cures, and it goes without saying that theres no room to clean out the gap and insure a good bond. i had in mind acetone and a tooth brush. also is it pressed in all at once or layered? thanks to all
Two choices
There have been many posts devoted to this topic on this forum. The skinny here is to remove the rub rail and channel if there is one. Clean out the groove with a can opener, awl or screwdriver whatever is available and fits well. when you're sure you have all the loose stuff out use 3M 4200 or 5200. Apply the sealant at one time with the caulk gun and let it cure. The 5200 will cure to a harder level and consider it non-removable. The 4200 will cure somewhat flexible and most posts here recommend the 5200 for a long term fix. Re-attach the channel and rub rail and enjoy. You'll likely have to heat the rub rail rubber to get it back in place. Steve P.
There have been many posts devoted to this topic on this forum. The skinny here is to remove the rub rail and channel if there is one. Clean out the groove with a can opener, awl or screwdriver whatever is available and fits well. when you're sure you have all the loose stuff out use 3M 4200 or 5200. Apply the sealant at one time with the caulk gun and let it cure. The 5200 will cure to a harder level and consider it non-removable. The 4200 will cure somewhat flexible and most posts here recommend the 5200 for a long term fix. Re-attach the channel and rub rail and enjoy. You'll likely have to heat the rub rail rubber to get it back in place. Steve P.
thanks but once again
thanks. i hope what you are saying is that the rubrail channel is mounted with screws as a separate strip and (?)and does not effect the bolt system holding the deck to hull together? (i have not tried to remove it yet).
thanks. i hope what you are saying is that the rubrail channel is mounted with screws as a separate strip and (?)and does not effect the bolt system holding the deck to hull together? (i have not tried to remove it yet).
Should be the case
THe rubrail channel should be screwed into the void in the deck hull sandwhich. The bolts are under that that hold the deck and hull together. steve P.
THe rubrail channel should be screwed into the void in the deck hull sandwhich. The bolts are under that that hold the deck and hull together. steve P.
thank you
steve thanks. i just got the boat in december. trying not to take anything apart that might keep me off the water once the weather warms up.
steve thanks. i just got the boat in december. trying not to take anything apart that might keep me off the water once the weather warms up.
Should be ok to sail
Having the rubrail off shouldn't keep you from enjoying a sail at all. It's purpose is to finish the hull/deck joint and give you something to bounce on instead of the fiberglass when docking or whatever. I think once you take it off it'll be obvious as to how to proceed. Enjoy Steve P.
Having the rubrail off shouldn't keep you from enjoying a sail at all. It's purpose is to finish the hull/deck joint and give you something to bounce on instead of the fiberglass when docking or whatever. I think once you take it off it'll be obvious as to how to proceed. Enjoy Steve P.
Good Topic...I need an insert
Anybody know of a suitable insert for the rub rail on an '81 Mac 25? I'm thinking of just replacing the rub rail and all, but if I can find a suitable insert it will save me some cash and all that sealant work!
Anybody know of a suitable insert for the rub rail on an '81 Mac 25? I'm thinking of just replacing the rub rail and all, but if I can find a suitable insert it will save me some cash and all that sealant work!
not as we thought
well, steve, i took a look at the rubrail and its connection to the boat and it is one complete system. under the rubber bumper strip are a row of bolts that connect the hull to the deck and secure the u-channel for the rubber bumper. i heard a nut drop to the bottom of the boat when i tried to remove the strip. i ,too,like the idea of a suitable inserted strip instead of all the upside down sealant work. i bought some 1/2" closed cell insulating foam from hd to replace the interior gray channel strip on my portlights. haven't used it yet but something like it should seal that underside channel really well if bonded with a small amount of sealant.no???
well, steve, i took a look at the rubrail and its connection to the boat and it is one complete system. under the rubber bumper strip are a row of bolts that connect the hull to the deck and secure the u-channel for the rubber bumper. i heard a nut drop to the bottom of the boat when i tried to remove the strip. i ,too,like the idea of a suitable inserted strip instead of all the upside down sealant work. i bought some 1/2" closed cell insulating foam from hd to replace the interior gray channel strip on my portlights. haven't used it yet but something like it should seal that underside channel really well if bonded with a small amount of sealant.no???
Try BWY (Blue Water Yachts)
Try contacting BWY either on the internet or by phone. Lots of posters use them and swear by them on this fourm. I think they can help you. Steve P.
Try contacting BWY either on the internet or by phone. Lots of posters use them and swear by them on this fourm. I think they can help you. Steve P.
4000 UV
5200 will become brittle and crack with prolonged exposure to sunlight. 4000 UV is much better suited to what you are trying to do. It resists discoloration caused by UV rays much more than 5200, and it also resists cracking and becoming brittle more than 5200. Also, 4000 UV bonds better to metal without requiring you to prime the metal. What I did on my boat was to leave the rubrail intact, I just caulked "over" the old sealant. I cleaned up as much as I could of the old stuff in between the metal rubrail and the fiberglass hull with acetone and an old toothbrush. Then I just put a nice sized bead along the top of the rubrail where it meets the hull, and another one below the rubrail. Then I made it smooth with my gloved finger. Just like I was caulking a sink. Very easy to do, and I didn't have to mess with removing the rubrail. It doesn't leak at all now, and it looks great, too. It's been two years since I did it, but the 4000 UV looks just as good as it did when I put it on, even though my boat is uncovered outdoors 24/7. It may have dulled a little, but I wouldn't be able to tell unless I put a new bead side-by-side for comparison.
5200 will become brittle and crack with prolonged exposure to sunlight. 4000 UV is much better suited to what you are trying to do. It resists discoloration caused by UV rays much more than 5200, and it also resists cracking and becoming brittle more than 5200. Also, 4000 UV bonds better to metal without requiring you to prime the metal. What I did on my boat was to leave the rubrail intact, I just caulked "over" the old sealant. I cleaned up as much as I could of the old stuff in between the metal rubrail and the fiberglass hull with acetone and an old toothbrush. Then I just put a nice sized bead along the top of the rubrail where it meets the hull, and another one below the rubrail. Then I made it smooth with my gloved finger. Just like I was caulking a sink. Very easy to do, and I didn't have to mess with removing the rubrail. It doesn't leak at all now, and it looks great, too. It's been two years since I did it, but the 4000 UV looks just as good as it did when I put it on, even though my boat is uncovered outdoors 24/7. It may have dulled a little, but I wouldn't be able to tell unless I put a new bead side-by-side for comparison.
i'll try that
mike probaby the best way to go right now. sailing season just around corner. thanks
mike probaby the best way to go right now. sailing season just around corner. thanks
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