First post, and here I am whining already... I have a SeaDog 6 gang switch panel (Model 422110) installed on my M17 (I don't know if this panel is original equipment on my '92 M17 or not, but the 422110 is a common panel). The thing doesn't seem to like 1 1/4 inch fuses, which is about the only size I can find. Measuring the existing 3 amp fuse (original equipment I assume) I come up with approximately 1 3/16 inches. Although the 1 1/4 inch fuse will fit in the fuse holder, the larger fuse won't work. I've tried both sizes in the same holder and the short one works--the 1 1/4 does not. And get this, a SeaDog tech I've been emailing tried a 1 1/4 in a 422110 and it worked for him. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Tom
SeaDog panel inop & First Post
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Yes, Bill. If anything, it's probably more engaged because it's slightly longer and requires a bit more umph (totally relative term--it doesn't take much effort to engage fuse holder) to plug the fuse back in. There's probably a simple explanation for the problem, but it's got me buffaloed.
If the fuse fits in the fuse holder then I suspect that fuse to be faulty.
What length of fuses are in the other 5 fuse holders? Do they all work? If yes then swap one of the other working fuses with the suspect faulty one. Have you tested the 1 1/4" fuse with a continuity checker/ohm meter? I have never come across a 1 3/16" glass fuse.
Need more input.
Welcome to the forum. We are here to help each other.
What length of fuses are in the other 5 fuse holders? Do they all work? If yes then swap one of the other working fuses with the suspect faulty one. Have you tested the 1 1/4" fuse with a continuity checker/ohm meter? I have never come across a 1 3/16" glass fuse.
Need more input.
Welcome to the forum. We are here to help each other.
Okay, I think I've solved my problem. Checking out the connections on the back of the panel, I've disconnected, then reconnected everything that will disconnect and reconnect. Guess what? All the on/off rocker switches now light up, indicating I have continuity (the only things I deliver power to from a small 12v battery are an LED interior light, and the masthead lights--so most of the circuits have never been used, at least by me). I'm guessing over the years the connections developed enough spooge on them to interfere with conductivity. Thanks for standing by while I proved once again that I am qualified to turn on a porch light, but that's it... t
Hey open boatt
You have discovered (in short order too!!!) one of the major insights to boat electricity. to witt 99.44% of all electrical problems on boats are corroded connections.
You have discovered (in short order too!!!) one of the major insights to boat electricity. to witt 99.44% of all electrical problems on boats are corroded connections.
I was being serious.
A lot of folks go to the most expensive complicated conclusion for fixes, spend a lot of money and it does not fix the problem, till they check the connections.
A lot of folks go to the most expensive complicated conclusion for fixes, spend a lot of money and it does not fix the problem, till they check the connections.
From a former dealer, Bill Roosa is correct about corrosion of electrical contacts and cleaning does solve alot of issues. One thing when super clean is to spray on an easily removed protection to prevent that from happenning. On smaller wires where I splice them, I use shrink tubing coated at the ends with liquid electrical.
crazy dave condon
crazy dave condon
I picked up small can of that liquid electrical tape. (it's rubber in a can with a brush) I have used it on my trailer lights when I needed to put a new male connector on. It seems to work fine. I wraped the wires with electrical tape after. (I seem to have to fix the lights about twice a year! If it's not some type of critter its a buddy yanking on them.)
One note; I would still like to solder all of my connections if any are required. I haven't had good luck with the squeeze type connectors even with shrink on.
One note; I would still like to solder all of my connections if any are required. I haven't had good luck with the squeeze type connectors even with shrink on.
Good tip, Mr. Finding. I'd never heard of such a substance. I think you're right; excellent trailer application. Tom
The quality of a crimp connection depends on the quality of the connector, but mainly it's down to the quality of the crimp performed.
The crimp deformation must be enough to permanently bond the wire to the connector. One way to evaluate a crimp is how much pull it can withstand. For example, a crimp onto AWG#16 wire should withstand a tug of 15 pounds, according to the ABYC.
It's possible to make acceptable crimps with some of the cheaper tools, but in inexperienced hands a good crimp is not guaranteed. But the more expensive "ratcheting" controlled-cycle crimpers will give you a dependable crimp every time, so they're worth the price if you're doing a serious rewire.
If the connector has been properly crimped, there's really no value to soldering; it won't improve the connection, will make the connection less resistant to flexing, and the soldering heat will damage the plastic sleeve.
Open Boat
Been there. Not too long ago I replaced my bow navigation lights and then I started having failures of the other circuits in the boat. I eventually tore out my entire electric panel and re-wired all of the connectors and still ... nothing worked and then I find I had corrosion on the positive lead of my battery. And every one knows that is supposed to be the first thing you look at.
Been there. Not too long ago I replaced my bow navigation lights and then I started having failures of the other circuits in the boat. I eventually tore out my entire electric panel and re-wired all of the connectors and still ... nothing worked and then I find I had corrosion on the positive lead of my battery. And every one knows that is supposed to be the first thing you look at.
I need to keep reminding myself; look at the obvious, fairly easy stuff first. That's a good tip regarding the battery--I'll keep that in mind. Thanks Robert. By the way, our boats were designed by the same guy: Lyle Hess. Interesting fellow and fine boat designer... Tom
Unfortunately my buddies are like chimps. If they can't wreck a crimp the first time by pulling it (It's plenty long..?) they inevitably will by tripping over it!
I must say I do have cheap crimpers. And didn't know there was such thing as a better connector. (Other than the ones with the shrink stuff built in.)
Here's some reading material. Maine Sail spells out the answers to a lot of your questions. I have the Pro's Kit crimper with several die sets to match the types of connectors I use. While ratchet crimpers are considerably more costly than a cheap crimper, it's an investment in a tool you'll have forever. Same with a good wire stripper.
http://forums.macgregor.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=142808
Heh
. Well after crimping, google "cable dressing". The idea is to bundle loose cables into a neat harness, and secure it high enough to be out of the way of over-enthusiastic feet and bilge-water.The cheap crimpers are better than nothing for a quick or emergency repair, and once you get a feel for the right pressure, it's possible to make reliable crimps... but the ratcheting crimpers get it right every time, and they leave a distinctive crimp that reassures future buyers and surveyors that the boat was wired competently.finding41 said:
There are brand-name crimp connectors, and knock-off lookalikes that are not guaranteed to be made to the same high standards. That doesn't necessarily mean that the knock-offs are guaranteed to fail, but once again, the use of a known good brand makes a statement about the care put into the wiring.
The SBO store sells good quality crimp connectors.
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