Reading "This Old Boat" by Don Casey, pg. 287, he states that the best seacocks, by a wide margin, are ball valves. On my 1984 Hunter 25.5 I have gate valves. One, that provides a through hull connection for the head, is very rusted and may eventually need to be replaced. My questions to those who have done this type repair are: 1. Can the replacement be done while the boat is in the water by plugging the through hull opening with a stopper thereby keeping the water out? 2. Is a ball valve really better and should I really switch to a plastic ball valve?
Seacocks
- Thread starter Tony23670
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I have the same problem!
My recently bought Hunter 25.5 also have a gate valve (looks like new but my Surveyor recommend that I get it replaced) Hope someone can answer this question: Should it be replaced? I am wondering if a gate valve originally came with the boat.
My recently bought Hunter 25.5 also have a gate valve (looks like new but my Surveyor recommend that I get it replaced) Hope someone can answer this question: Should it be replaced? I am wondering if a gate valve originally came with the boat.
Ball Valves are quick and easy to operate
If you have your boat out of the water, and, you have the time and money, I believe that one should attempt to replace the gate valves. Gate valves take many turns to open and close, which means it takes time to operate, and because of how the valve is designed and operates, the gate valve may break in some position that can prevent the valve disc from closing when you want it to. Ball valves are very easy to operate, typically only taking a quarter turn to go from one position to the other. The handle of the valve will tell you immediately if the valve is open or closed. A gate valve will not tell you anything by looking at it. To be sure, one must lay hands on the handwheel and attempt to turn. There is a problem with this in that you may tighten the valve up and drive the disc into the valve seat and damage the valve/disc. A ball valve can be closed immediately if you need to and if you don't break the handle by being a little to aggressive with the handle, A ball valve is also easy to operate. Gate valves get cranky (no pun intended) as they age. Get rid of gate valves if you can when your boat is out of the water.
If you have your boat out of the water, and, you have the time and money, I believe that one should attempt to replace the gate valves. Gate valves take many turns to open and close, which means it takes time to operate, and because of how the valve is designed and operates, the gate valve may break in some position that can prevent the valve disc from closing when you want it to. Ball valves are very easy to operate, typically only taking a quarter turn to go from one position to the other. The handle of the valve will tell you immediately if the valve is open or closed. A gate valve will not tell you anything by looking at it. To be sure, one must lay hands on the handwheel and attempt to turn. There is a problem with this in that you may tighten the valve up and drive the disc into the valve seat and damage the valve/disc. A ball valve can be closed immediately if you need to and if you don't break the handle by being a little to aggressive with the handle, A ball valve is also easy to operate. Gate valves get cranky (no pun intended) as they age. Get rid of gate valves if you can when your boat is out of the water.
Tony, it's not a question of if
a gate valve will fail, it's when. And I'll lay odds that when will be the worst possible time. Get 'em out, especially if you're sailing in salty water. Unfortunately, need to take boat out to do this.
a gate valve will fail, it's when. And I'll lay odds that when will be the worst possible time. Get 'em out, especially if you're sailing in salty water. Unfortunately, need to take boat out to do this.
Gate Valve Replacement
Depending on how far below the water line the thru hull is located, you may be able to tie off the 'windward' dock lines and with a bridle on the main halyard taken to a mid bay piling on an adjacent slip, use a winch to heel the boat 15 degrees which in my case was far enough to expose the thru hull. Then inside the boat,holding the thru hull lock nut with a wrench and the gate valve body with another, unscrew it and replace it with a ball valve or seacock. Be sure to match the threads of the new valve to the thread type of the thru hull by dry fitting one in the store. Use a little sealant on the outside of the thruhull threads after cleaning them off with a wire brush or wire wheel in a portable drill. I prefer a bronze fitting to a Marelon as I've had the two part body of the Marelon type bind up on the ball and the result was breaking off the handle shaft. 2nd repalcement was bronze with a stainless ball and teflon valve seat. It's been in there over ten years
Depending on how far below the water line the thru hull is located, you may be able to tie off the 'windward' dock lines and with a bridle on the main halyard taken to a mid bay piling on an adjacent slip, use a winch to heel the boat 15 degrees which in my case was far enough to expose the thru hull. Then inside the boat,holding the thru hull lock nut with a wrench and the gate valve body with another, unscrew it and replace it with a ball valve or seacock. Be sure to match the threads of the new valve to the thread type of the thru hull by dry fitting one in the store. Use a little sealant on the outside of the thruhull threads after cleaning them off with a wire brush or wire wheel in a portable drill. I prefer a bronze fitting to a Marelon as I've had the two part body of the Marelon type bind up on the ball and the result was breaking off the handle shaft. 2nd repalcement was bronze with a stainless ball and teflon valve seat. It's been in there over ten years
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