seacocks

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Don

Is it a good idea or necessary to close the seacocks to the water pump intack and the seacock to the head, when leaving the boat? I've just purchased the boat and would appreciate any advice. I also noticed the the electric bulge pump runs of my batteries and does'nt have a switch or converter to run of shore power once in the slip, wouldn't it be a better set-up that once hooked up to AC current '120' that the bulge pumps would draw from shore power when necessary?
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Actually it is a GREAT idea.

Don: You really should close off EVERY thru hull that you have below the water line every time you leave. I am not quite sure about your bilge pump question. Are you saying that you DO NOT have a breaker for the bilge pump? This means that it only works on Automatic? If that is the case, you should rewire it so it works boths ways. You should be able to activate it with a toggle/breaker and it should also activate automatically if the float switch activates it. The bilge pump is 12VDC and what you are depending on is the battery charger should keep the batteries topped off. If you where to have a continous leak while you are away from the boat the charger should keep the batteries topped off so the pump will continue to pump. Many owners refuse to keep their battery charger on while they are away from the boat. This may be justifiable if you do not have a quality charger. You batteries can over charge and overheat. They may even catch fire. I have a Statpower Smart Charger and leave it going 24 x 7.
 
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Paul

There's a breaker, I'll bet.

The bilge pump circuit breaker is wisely left off the main panel on my 336, and I'll bet it's similarly hidden on yours. Mine is in the compartment with the batteries and shore charger. If you didn't have a breaker, you'd have a real fire danger. That's probably worse than the bilge pump not running, it that's possible. Quoting Peggie Hall, "Unclosed through-hulls are the number-one cause of boats sinking while unattended." You've got tens of thousands of dollars worth of boat betting its life on a couple of rubber hoses. Best to do like Steve says.
 
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Ed Schenck

Bilge pump wiring.

My bilge pump switch is on the panel. I always turn it on for a minute when I have been away for a few days. The float switch needs more water to kick on. It is not unusual for the breaker switch to be elsewhere as Paul points out. You do want 12 volts to the pump ALL of the time. So get a good battery charger for when you are on shorepower. There should also be a fuse in the wire directly from the battery with the continuous 12 volts. A short in the pump or float switch could be dangerous. And a pump cycle counter is a good idea if you only go aboard on weekends like I do. If it is coming on during a week with no rain then there is a problem somewhere.
 
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Don

Appreciate the info.

I agree.....one broken or leaking hose could be a potential disaster. After reading the responses, I will be purchasing a quality battery charger. I believe I'm going to have someone with more electrical experience then I have look at my 12 volt system and explain some of the do's and don'ts. The circuit breaker for the bilge pump is on a breaker its on the same panel as my running lights anchor lights..cabin lights. But I believe all that does is cut the circuit. What I do to see if the bilge is working once the circuit is switched on to the bilge pump is manually lift the float and if it runs and shoots water out the hull then its working. Again... really appreciate all the useful information.
 
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Ed Schenck

Wait Don, . . .

if I read your last post correctly then you are still not understanding the bilge pump wiring. You should NOT have to first turn on the panel breaker. With the breaker OFF you should be able to lift the float switch and the pump should run. With your main battery switch OFF you should be able to lift the float switch and have the pump run. When you turn the panel switch ON then the pump should also run(main battery switch is ON). As soon as you hear it sucking air then turn it off. Most good pumps can run dry but don't push your luck. If your pump does not run this way then I think your boat is incorrectly wired.
 
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Don

I will check it out again

Thanks Ed, I will be going up to Olympia today to check on the boat, and I will try the bilge pump with the breaker off and see if it doe's work. If I remember right it didn't. I will let you know what I come up with. If I'm understanding you..I can have both the main battery switch off and the breaker switch of to the bilge pump and the bilge pump will still work, if I lift the float manually. If thats the case wheres the power coming from? Is the bilge pump wire directly to the battery, by-passing the circuit breaker and the battery OFF switch?
 
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Ed Schenck

Yes Don, . . .

it should be wired directly to the battery. That is why we mentioned having a separate fuse, it goes in that wire since the circuit breaker is not in that circuit. It is also why you need to keep your batteries charged. Even the manual for my boat was wrong. The Related Link below is the H37C wiring diagram. The bilge pump goes to those little circles, those are circuit breakers. Notice that the float switch goes to one side of the main battery switch. That is WRONG. It goes to the same post that the battery attaches to. In the winter on the cradle I remove that wire. I don't have the charger plugged in during the winter. The pump should never come on but since my mast is keel-stepped I do get some rain water in the bilge. I just go up every three or four weeks and check. Good luck.
 
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