Seacock lubrication - How to do it?

[Rich Stidger]

I've searched the archives and found that some sailors use a white lithium grease in a spray can to spray into the outside of the seacock and then operator them from the inside.

I did this action last year with something that I can't remember but it wasn't white lithium grease. The was no improvement in the stiffness of the operation of the valve.

Is white lithium really the trick or is there another technique that I can use?

 

[Ross]

I would use tallow. It is water proof, inexpensive and very effective. You can get a one year supply the next time you roast a standing rib roast. Pull the hose off from the inside and spoon some melted tallow into the valve . All of that said, if you have modern ball valve seacocks they shouldn't need to be lubricated.

 

[Hermit Scott]

If indeed the ball valves do need lubricating, I think the groco ball valves with the reversible handle would be the easiest to lube both sides of the ball. You just take the allen headed pin out and the ball will go ALL the way left and ALL the way right. I am going to buy this kind for my boat. I haven't tried it yet, it's just something I was thinking of.
Ross-tallow-I had to look that up.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Interesting you mention it Rich. I had a problem with my holding tank valve which required replacement this spring and noticed while in the process that the stainless/chrome ball was badly corroded and with this one valve, was so bad that no amount of lube would have helped it.
Having said that. I have always sprayed while lithium grease on the ball while on the hard, worked the ball and considered that sufficient.
The new value has a grease fitting - one down and 7 to go...

 

[sailingdog]

You can apply it with a brush or spray it. LIthium grease is available in spray form, but I prefer using a slightly heavier grease. Any good waterproof grease will work.

As a caveat, if you have a watermaker, use lanocote instead, as the RO membrane is sensitive to petroleum products...

 

[Ross]

You can buy anhydrous lanolin at the drug store for about five dollars a pound. I don't know how similar to lanacote that might be but I will bet it is close.

 

[Maine Sail]

Guys...

They are called "ball" valves. This means the part that shuts off the water flow is a ball. Simply remove the handle, put a small wrench across the flat spot on the valve stem, and the ball will rotate 360 degrees!

Use a flux brush or acid brush and stick it up inside the thru-hull do one side of the ball and then turn the ball and do the other. Lubing ball bronze valves when the ball is clean will get you minimal improvement in operation and usually is not necessary. With Marelon it is a must..

On some of the older Marelon valves this worked too. Don't know if it still does as I stopped using them due to failures. Most any bronze valve by Apollo, Conbraco or Groco will spin 360 degrees without the handle..

Don't pull hoses just remove the one nut and pull the handle..

Just cause I like you guys I just took a few photos:

Side 2 of the ball (note the number on the stem):

Open:

Side 1 of the ball:

P.S. This is a three year old Groco ball valve and the ball still looks brand new..

 

[sailingdog]

AFAIK, this doesn't work on the new Marelon ball valves I've seen, since the handles are integrated.

They are called "ball" valves. This means the part that shuts off the water flow is a ball. Simply remove the handle, put a small wrench across the flat spot on the valve stem, and the ball will rotate 360 degrees!

Use a flux brush or acid brush and stick it up inside the thru-hull do one side of the ball and then turn the ball and do the other. Lubing ball bronze valves when the ball is clean will get you minimal improvement in operation and usually is not necessary. With Marelon it is a must..

On some of the older Marelon valves this worked too. Don't know if it still does as I stopped using them due to failures. Most any bronze valve by Apollo, Conbraco or Groco will spin 360 degrees without the handle..

Don't pull hoses just remove the one nut and pull the handle..

 

[Ross]

Mainesail Do any of the old style tapered valves still exist?

 

[Maine Sail]

AFAIK, this doesn't work on the new Marelon ball valves I've seen, since the handles are integrated.

I think you'll find the new ones are built similarly to the older ones.

I know this works on the older ones but it may or may not on the newer style. You'll want to do this out of the water or you could blow the o-ring out.

While the design lends itself to slightly more labor in getting the ball to spin it can be done, at least on the older ones.

#1 Remove Handle. Older "RC Marine" valves had a screw under the sticker that held the handle onto the valve. On the newer ones the handle just pulls off then the screw holds the handle stop in place.

#2 Remove set screw (on older ones set screw holds handle on and is under the sticker)

#3 Remove handle stop device:

#4 Rotate ball with needle nose pliers to grease both sides from the thru-hull fitting.

Still beats removing old hose or sanitation hose!

 

[Maine Sail]

Yes they do

Mainesail Do any of the old style tapered valves still exist?

Gawd yes!! Some high end builders actually still use them. Spartan Bronze (Cape Dory) & Blakes still makes them and they last forever if maintained. I have seen 30+ year old tapered cone valves still going strong. Like anything if you don't maintain them you kill them..

Spartan Tapered Cone Seacock

 

[sailingdog]

No kidding... I'll have to see if these are built the same way as the one in your photos this week. I know one of them definitely isn't, but the other two might be okay.

I think you'll find the new ones are built similarly to the older ones. While the design lends itself to slightly more labor to make the ball spin it can be done at least on older ones.

#1 Remove Handle. Older "RC Marine" valves had a screw under the sticker that held the handle on the newer ones the handle just pulls off then the screw holds the handle stop in place.

#2 Remove set screw

#3 Remove valve/handle stop device:

#4 Rotate ball 360 degrees with needle nose pliers.

Still beats removing old hose or sanitation hose!

 

[Hermit Scott]

Thanks for the info on how to lube the non-2 way ball valves. The one I bought for my engine is one of those types. I considered replacing it just so it would be easier to lube, now I don't have to.

 

[Rich Stidger]

<snip> All of that said, if you have modern ball valve seacocks they shouldn't need to be lubricated.

Ross- Some of my valves have always been hard to operate. One or two of the valves turn easily, the others require some muscle. Is it common that some valves just plain turn hard?

Mainesail- Now I feel stupid. Why didn't I think of removing the handle and turning the ball 180 degrees? Pulling off the hoses is just too much work and it opens the possibility of additional problems. I'll give it a try later this week. Thanks!

 

[Ross]

Rod, I have several ball valves of the same size and structure and some operate more easily than others but that is just a matter of degree. I don't need tools to turn any of them.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Don't remove the handle of Marelon valves

because of this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2729.0.html

 

[sailingdog]

You can clearly see the o-ring in question in Maine Sail's photo.

And in his other thread he does clearly state that these should not be worked on while the boat is in the water because of the o-ring issue mentioned in your link.

because of this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2729.0.html