Screwed Up Cetol Project

[SailMaster]

Hi guys,

I've never worked with this product so I need a little advice. I hired someone to do our teak brightwork for the spring commissioning. Sadly, I had to fire him due to his inexperience and other issues. I am in a bit of a pickle as I'd like to get this finished in a timely manner.

Sanding of all the external teak has been done during perfectly dry days on Wednesday and Thursday. They were supposed to start applying Cetol on Thursday. The temperature was about 60 degrees F. But this did not happen due to their unfamiliarity with the product and temperature requirements. (Cetol's label says you can apply it between 50 degrees F and 95 F).

On Friday I took over the project and started applying Cetol at about 70 degrees. I got only 10 percent of the first coat done. On Saturday, all of that prepped wood has been rained on. Tomorrow we have a cold front coming through that will further delay the project.

Will I have to resand ALL of the bare wood after it has gotten wet?

What is the optimum temperature to apply the Cetol. Even at 70 degrees it seems too thick.

Thanks in advance,
Walt

 

[BigEasy]

No need to sand it all off. I would lightly sand (by hand) along length wood grain and reapply. Do not thin Cetol. I think that you can apply additional coats if done within 24 hours of previous coat with out sanding, but you are more likely to get a smoother finish if sanded lightly between coats. I usually apply one to two coats of natural followed by two coats of clear gloss. Lasts approximately three to four years. If you maintain by lightly sanding and recoating with clear, before the finish deteriorates, you will avoid having to strip / sand to bare wood. Newer Cetol shades along with clear gloss looks much better than original Cetol from years ago, that blocked out wood grain and looked too much like paint. I would follow directions exactly for optimum results with regards to temperature, recoating time, and number of coats.

 

[dlochner]

Cetol is fairly thick, it is not a varnish, it is more like a paint. Thinning may be an option, check the label.

If the wood is dry there should not be a need to sand it again. The part that has been coated already will likely need a very light sanding before recoating to give it some "tooth" for the next coat.

 

[capta]

After wood gets wet, it raises the grain and should be lightly sanded again. One gets that deep, rich look to varnish by doing this over and over again. I haven't used that product since the '80s, but I believe that once the weather warms up again you can wash it with turpentine and most of the Cetol can be removed. Then sand it all and begin again.