Avalable at fine metal working stores everywhere. Seriously google should be able to find some for sale.Just put the rouge on a buffing wheel and GO LIGHTLY over the 440 sanding scratches. This is optical stuff so you have to take it down in stages. 80-100-220-440-rouge. Other wise you end up trying to buff out 80 grit scratches and that can take a while. Also watch the heat buildup.
I came across this product, but haven't used it. Anyone have any experience with it? Meguiars has a good reputation, so I'm assuming it's not junk, but would it solve the problem of scratched hatches?My problem is that my hatch lenses are crazed. Replacing them is on my project list.
I use PlastX on my dodger which gets minor scratches out. Also works well if you have a newer car where the headlights get foggy or DVDs that skip. It will do nothing for crazing though. I replaced all the port light plexi on my H30 for about 15-20 bucks each with new ones from a company called Florida rigging and hydralics. When I get around to it I am going to replace the front hatch plexi and slider as well.Full Sails,Bob
I know these places from aviation where because windscreens and canopys on small planes are almost all plexiglas.The Micro-Mesh kit for removing scratches and Acri-fix for filling holes and cracks are excellent.Links follow: on Wings and Wheels, scroll to the bottom of the home page and click on the forward arrow, page 37 has some cleaners and polish.
I have used this product on my plexiglass and other plastics.It should be available at any auto paint store.The real secret is to use a genuine wool ploishing bonnet.Using the synthetic imitation wool pads only wastes time and material.I got aproper wool bonnet from an auto paint store and fixed it to a $69 6" Sander/Buffer from Sears.My plexiglass is crystal clear!Good Luck
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