Scrape off all the old antifoul or not?

Oct 30, 2019
114
Hi all, I have been wondering if I need to go the whole hog and remove all the old antifoul with caustic soda and hours of scraping? The previous time (another yacht) I got it back to gelcoat and put on a few coats of primocon before applying the antifoul. What did I achieve by doing that? Can I just give the existing antifoul a good sanding to provide a key and then apply new antifoul on top?
Does everyone remove the remnants of last years antifoul before applying the new?
Maybe its the weather but I am feeling a bit lazy...
John
 
Oct 30, 2011
221
I am lucky enough to have a big shed to keep it in....Vega in shed...
Yahoo! Groups
183953/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=41&count=20&dir=asc
.......... so it is time to commence battle and get her sorted out! I
am afraid the hull has been painted before (badly) so I will need to do
it again. Need to read up on that!
 
Dec 16, 2011
77
Hi john I like your tender and I have been thinking about something along those lines. Where did you find her did it come rigged like that or is it your own invention ? John C (SV Albion 3319)
 
Oct 30, 2011
221
Hi, It's cute isn't it! I bought it off ebay last week. Cost ?350
with the sailing kit and a bag to stow it all in. I am told they are
very well made and also have inner tubes in case the outer ones are
punctured. I think there is a Tinker owners site on the www?
Apparently they row very well and are happy with a 4hp outboard. Not
tried it yet!
 
Feb 13, 2010
528
I don't think anyone on this list can advise you as to whether to scrape
off the bottom u of your boat. I can tell you what I hav e done over the
years! I have only removed the bottom paint when it has begun
peeling. If it is tight and can therefor hold another coat of paint I
would find other work to do on the boat. If your's is like mine there is
plenty to do. I have always used soft copper as it wears off some and
helps to keep the from building up. Ablative paint is good for that
reason. It seems to keep the bottom about as clean as any if you can
legally use it where you live.
Doug
 
Oct 30, 2019
574
Hi John - Without looking at the condition of the bottom, I can't really say whether you should remove all the old paint. I have never removed the bottom paint. Each year I sand it with 120 grit, 220 grit, then a green scrubby. I then wipe it down with a little acetone...just enough to remove the dust. Then I apply 1-2 coats (sometimes 3) of ablative, depending on how rough the previous year was on the bottom. I've been lucky enough to find ablative in 2 different colors, so I'll paint one over the other...which gives me an idea of how much was removed.

The ablative dries very quickly, so you can get 2-3 coats on in about 4 hours (not counting any taping you might be doing). The guys at the yard are always amazed at how good it looks come haul out time.

Hope that helps.

Jack
Bella - V2620
 
Oct 30, 2019
574
Hi John - Can you supply a description of the sailing rig? I'm in the process of building a rig for a boat I built last year and still collecting ideas.

Thanks,
Jack
Bella - V2620
 
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
My thoughts on the bottom paint:
If there is such a build up of old paint that it's starting to crack and flake then it needs to come off. But if the paint is in good shape recoating is the easiest option.

For complete removal I've used a carbide scraper with good results and not too much dust. The Vega was about a 6 hour job, in 2 hour shifts to give the old body a chance to recover. Then a light dusting with a Dual Action sander finished the job. (On the scraper, just touch the end corners on a grinder to avoid gouging the gelcoat.)

On the Ballad's nice clean bottom I'm going with C-Guard bottom paint (a UK product) A bit expensive, but I'm hoping it'll last as advertsed.

Nice shed, by the way!

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
Oct 30, 2011
221
Many thanks all..... I have had an exploratory scrape and there
appears to be two coats of antifoul and a grey coat of paint that may
be primer and then I hit the original gelcoat (white). It came off
(scraped) quite easily so I may as well take it all off down to the
gelcoat? Would I be wise to apply a coat of epoxy to help prevent any
chance of osmosis? Or just a good quality primer? (Primicon)

Ref the rig on the Tinker - the floor is made of foldable sheets of
marine ply and the mast sits in a little mast step on the floor and it
has three shrouds - guy lines really - that tie to strong (ish) points
on the dinghy. Could not be simpler!

The shed is a wonderful thing! We used to have cattle in it but those
days are long gone!

I attempted to fit a new bow roller today and realised that the front
bulkhead had to come out to gain access to the nuts holding the old
one on. Ended up taking out the water tank - I discovered that the
jubilee clips on the hose was not stainless and snapped in two when I
tried to undo it! Corrosion is a terrible thing. Hard to believe a
plain steel clip was fitted originally!

Steve - if your are about - any news on the nylon rollers for the twin
bow roller?

Thankyou to all for the useful advice.

John
 
Oct 31, 2019
303
I have an old Tinker 12 footer with the sailing rig (and also the life raft
rig they sell). The instruction sheet has a description of the sail rig. It
is basically an aluminum tube for the mast and boom and a small
roller-furling jib. I have all the parts somewhere (I damaged my Tinker in
Tahiti a few years ago and haven't had the time to do the necessary repair,
and I've moved a few times, so things are in rather strange places now).

By the way, I had an old 2-cycle Mercury on my Tinker and she'd get up on a
plane with my 200 pound carcass in it. She'd almost plane with two people
-- she was lots of fun. She also sailed very well for a rubber boat.. I was
talking with one of their reps and he told me of a dive company in South
America that beefed up the transom and had a 50 hp outboard on one. It must
have really got up and flew across the water.