Is there information available on the pros and cons of various types of sanitation hoses, including the ease (or difficulty) of installation)? If not, can someone provide some. I see the various types of white and black sanitation hose, and I hear how difficult it is to work with the "best" grade of the white hose, and I'm not sure whether the benefits out weigh the cost and installation problems, whatever they may be. Thanks in advance for any info on the topic.
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Many years with the black.
Ed: I have had the Series 101 No-Odor hose in my boat for about 10 years. There is still no problem with odor. This stuff was about 1000 times better than the crap that came with the boat. There have been a few owners that basically decided that the Sealand hose was not possible to work with because of the problem with fittings and trying to snake the stuff around in tight areas. I think I would get some of that stuff that the electricians use to lube the wires when they pull them through conduit. You can use this on the hoses when you are trying to run them through very tight chases. I would not hesitate to recommend the use of this product. With that said, I would use the Sealand hose if it is practical.
Ed: I have had the Series 101 No-Odor hose in my boat for about 10 years. There is still no problem with odor. This stuff was about 1000 times better than the crap that came with the boat. There have been a few owners that basically decided that the Sealand hose was not possible to work with because of the problem with fittings and trying to snake the stuff around in tight areas. I think I would get some of that stuff that the electricians use to lube the wires when they pull them through conduit. You can use this on the hoses when you are trying to run them through very tight chases. I would not hesitate to recommend the use of this product. With that said, I would use the Sealand hose if it is practical.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Hose properties
With one exception (SeaLand "OdorSafe" brand), white hose is more susceptible to odor permeation than black hose. The softer an more flexible it is, the more likely it is to permeate...the thicker and stiffer it is, the more resistant to permeation. However, configuration, toilet water useage and flushing habits can have as much impact on the life of any hose as its physical properties. For instance, the same Trident 148 white hose that was on one of my boats for more than 7 years without permeating took less than 90 days to permeate on the next boat. Black hose is more resistant to odor permeation than white hose, but it's not bullet-proof, either. Installation and whether waste is allowed to sit in it has as much impact on black hose as white. It may never permeate or only last a short time--longer than white hose would in the same installation, but how long it takes is as unpredictable as white hose. SeaLand "OdorSafe" is unique. There's a "skin" bonded to the outside of it made of a plastic material that's odor impermeable. That's what makes it "bulletproof" when it comes to permeation. It also makes it stiff as an ironing board, but no stiffer than heavy duty black hose. And not that much more expensive, either..and it's the only hose that isn't a crap shoot (no pun intended) when it comes to odor permation.
With one exception (SeaLand "OdorSafe" brand), white hose is more susceptible to odor permeation than black hose. The softer an more flexible it is, the more likely it is to permeate...the thicker and stiffer it is, the more resistant to permeation. However, configuration, toilet water useage and flushing habits can have as much impact on the life of any hose as its physical properties. For instance, the same Trident 148 white hose that was on one of my boats for more than 7 years without permeating took less than 90 days to permeate on the next boat. Black hose is more resistant to odor permeation than white hose, but it's not bullet-proof, either. Installation and whether waste is allowed to sit in it has as much impact on black hose as white. It may never permeate or only last a short time--longer than white hose would in the same installation, but how long it takes is as unpredictable as white hose. SeaLand "OdorSafe" is unique. There's a "skin" bonded to the outside of it made of a plastic material that's odor impermeable. That's what makes it "bulletproof" when it comes to permeation. It also makes it stiff as an ironing board, but no stiffer than heavy duty black hose. And not that much more expensive, either..and it's the only hose that isn't a crap shoot (no pun intended) when it comes to odor permation.
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Dave
Source for Sealand hoses
I have looked and haven't been able to find a place to purchase the Sealand hoses on-line (or off-line for that matter). Anyone have an on-line source?
I have looked and haven't been able to find a place to purchase the Sealand hoses on-line (or off-line for that matter). Anyone have an on-line source?
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
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Brian Leney
Odorsafe
I recommend you do an archive 'search' for 'Odorsafe', which is the hose being recommended in this thread by Peggy. It will reveal a lot of opinions and hints on installation, about Odorsafe and other hoses. Suggest also you go to a store that carries Odorsafe (Fawcetts in Annapolis or West Marine) and ask to see it to determine if it will have the flex you need for working in your installation. Indeed, it's stiff. I'm prepping for an Odorsafe hose install right now. One of the recommendations in the archives is to use the hose adapter fittings that Sealand sells to use with their Odorsafe hose, since they are slightly smaller than standard barb fittings, thus making it easier to install the very ungiving 1 1/2" hose (albeit more expensive since you've got to buy the fittings). You can purchase them directly from Sealand, since no retailers seem to carry them. To rehose with Odorsafe is not cheap, but I only want to do the nasty job once.
I recommend you do an archive 'search' for 'Odorsafe', which is the hose being recommended in this thread by Peggy. It will reveal a lot of opinions and hints on installation, about Odorsafe and other hoses. Suggest also you go to a store that carries Odorsafe (Fawcetts in Annapolis or West Marine) and ask to see it to determine if it will have the flex you need for working in your installation. Indeed, it's stiff. I'm prepping for an Odorsafe hose install right now. One of the recommendations in the archives is to use the hose adapter fittings that Sealand sells to use with their Odorsafe hose, since they are slightly smaller than standard barb fittings, thus making it easier to install the very ungiving 1 1/2" hose (albeit more expensive since you've got to buy the fittings). You can purchase them directly from Sealand, since no retailers seem to carry them. To rehose with Odorsafe is not cheap, but I only want to do the nasty job once.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Some of those hints aren't advisable
For instance, heating hose--ANY hose--to bend it. That's a big no-no...heating it that much weakens the hose and can cause it to collapse and kink in the bend. To go around any bend that's tighter than a hose is willing to do, break the hose and use an inline radius fitting (also available from Sealand). The articles "Replacing Hoses" and "Installing a Head and Holding Tank" in the HM forum reference library provide instructions that should be useful.
For instance, heating hose--ANY hose--to bend it. That's a big no-no...heating it that much weakens the hose and can cause it to collapse and kink in the bend. To go around any bend that's tighter than a hose is willing to do, break the hose and use an inline radius fitting (also available from Sealand). The articles "Replacing Hoses" and "Installing a Head and Holding Tank" in the HM forum reference library provide instructions that should be useful.
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Ed.
heating to install at the fitting??
What about heating the end of the hose so that it goes over the barbed fitting? The salesperson at West Marine suggested either dipping in boiling water or using a torch (carefully) to soften the end of the hose. Is is feasible or even necessary if you use some soap? I haven't tried any of these methods yet, but am gearing up to do something soon.
What about heating the end of the hose so that it goes over the barbed fitting? The salesperson at West Marine suggested either dipping in boiling water or using a torch (carefully) to soften the end of the hose. Is is feasible or even necessary if you use some soap? I haven't tried any of these methods yet, but am gearing up to do something soon.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Heat the ends VERY carefully
Some people like to put 'em in boiling water...I've never found that to be practical. For one thing, the hose has to sit in the hot water for several minutes. For another, the hose usually doesn't reach the stove after one end has been connected...and the idea of a pot of scalding water sitting next to me in the bilge of a boat that can be rocked and rolled unexpectedly has never appealed to me. A heat gun or blow torch can do more damage than good in the hands of someone that doesn't have considerable skill in using one. I like a blow dryer (in fact, I kept a small folding travel dryer in my toolbox)...like boiling water, it takes some patience but it can't scald me, won't melt the hose unless I go to lunch while it's aimed at it, and can reach anywhere as long as an extension cord is long enough.
Some people like to put 'em in boiling water...I've never found that to be practical. For one thing, the hose has to sit in the hot water for several minutes. For another, the hose usually doesn't reach the stove after one end has been connected...and the idea of a pot of scalding water sitting next to me in the bilge of a boat that can be rocked and rolled unexpectedly has never appealed to me. A heat gun or blow torch can do more damage than good in the hands of someone that doesn't have considerable skill in using one. I like a blow dryer (in fact, I kept a small folding travel dryer in my toolbox)...like boiling water, it takes some patience but it can't scald me, won't melt the hose unless I go to lunch while it's aimed at it, and can reach anywhere as long as an extension cord is long enough.
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