Went to look at the tank configuration and measure the hoses for replacement. I know we are suposed to pump the waste to the tank to prevent hose permeation, what about the pump out hose that is continuously full of s**t. Seems like it will alsways stink. Please refresh my faiding memory with the name and source for the hose you recomend. Russell
- Status
Sealand Odorsafe
Russ: The white hose is Sealand Odorsafe. IF you can make the tank so the can have the discharge on TOP of the tank (with a pipe that goes near the bottom), you will not have the problem with 's**t' in the hose. The other option (if it is possible) is to place a ball valve at the discharge so nothing can leave the tank until the handle is turned (may be a lot easier said than done).
Russ: The white hose is Sealand Odorsafe. IF you can make the tank so the can have the discharge on TOP of the tank (with a pipe that goes near the bottom), you will not have the problem with 's**t' in the hose. The other option (if it is possible) is to place a ball valve at the discharge so nothing can leave the tank until the handle is turned (may be a lot easier said than done).
Best place to get hose Steve?
Any recommendations as to best place (price and/or convenience) to obtain the Sealand Odorsafe hose? thanks, matt
Any recommendations as to best place (price and/or convenience) to obtain the Sealand Odorsafe hose? thanks, matt
Check West Marine...
Also call SeaLand at 800-321-9886 for the names of other dealers near you. Their OdorSafe hose has a list price over $8/ft, so it pays to shop. A caveat about it: it's stiff as ironing board. Do NOT heat it to bend it tighter than it bends willingly...you'll damage it. Instead, break it and insert an inline 90 or 45 degree radius fitting, which SeaLand also has. When you call 'em, ask 'em to fax you that page from their catalog. If you have at least 5" clearance above the top of the tank, also ask 'em to send you info about their retrofit pick-up tube discharge fitting. Putting the discharge on the top of the tank eliminates standing waste in the pumpout hose, which reduces the potential for odor permeation.
Also call SeaLand at 800-321-9886 for the names of other dealers near you. Their OdorSafe hose has a list price over $8/ft, so it pays to shop. A caveat about it: it's stiff as ironing board. Do NOT heat it to bend it tighter than it bends willingly...you'll damage it. Instead, break it and insert an inline 90 or 45 degree radius fitting, which SeaLand also has. When you call 'em, ask 'em to fax you that page from their catalog. If you have at least 5" clearance above the top of the tank, also ask 'em to send you info about their retrofit pick-up tube discharge fitting. Putting the discharge on the top of the tank eliminates standing waste in the pumpout hose, which reduces the potential for odor permeation.
Another Two Cents Worth
Russell I couldn't help but put in a plug for Peggie's advice on the SeaLand Odorsafe. After we refit our Hunter 27 with that hose, the head odors have virtually disappeared. And the summer heat can be brutal down here, so I think it's a good test. However, as she mentions, it is extremely hard to work with in terms of stiffness. We were able to get it around the corners without heating, but not onto the pumpout fitting under the deck. We found it necessary to gently heat the end of the hose with a blow dryer until it was warm to the touch (Peggie may not agree, so we'll see what she says after she reads this). Then lubricate it with a water soluble lube (I think I used KY, actually) and push hard! The most difficult part of attaching the hose to the pumpout fitting was getting access to that fitting. It was inside a hanging locker. But after heating, lubing, and cussing quite a bit, we got it on there and it's been good for almost two years now. Anyway, the OdorSafe stuff is great, and as far as the leftover 'waste material' (more politically correct) in the hose after pumpout, we simply follow Peggie's advice (again) and thouroughly rinse the holding tank twice or three times during the pumpout routine. Then drop some KO in there and all is well. Good luck with the re-hosing, and remember to be patient! Ron Vanderveer and Tom Hrkach
Russell I couldn't help but put in a plug for Peggie's advice on the SeaLand Odorsafe. After we refit our Hunter 27 with that hose, the head odors have virtually disappeared. And the summer heat can be brutal down here, so I think it's a good test. However, as she mentions, it is extremely hard to work with in terms of stiffness. We were able to get it around the corners without heating, but not onto the pumpout fitting under the deck. We found it necessary to gently heat the end of the hose with a blow dryer until it was warm to the touch (Peggie may not agree, so we'll see what she says after she reads this). Then lubricate it with a water soluble lube (I think I used KY, actually) and push hard! The most difficult part of attaching the hose to the pumpout fitting was getting access to that fitting. It was inside a hanging locker. But after heating, lubing, and cussing quite a bit, we got it on there and it's been good for almost two years now. Anyway, the OdorSafe stuff is great, and as far as the leftover 'waste material' (more politically correct) in the hose after pumpout, we simply follow Peggie's advice (again) and thouroughly rinse the holding tank twice or three times during the pumpout routine. Then drop some KO in there and all is well. Good luck with the re-hosing, and remember to be patient! Ron Vanderveer and Tom Hrkach
Warming it is ok...
However, OVERheating any hose can damage it, causing it to collapse or tear down the road. Which is why I advise using a blow dryer instead of a heat gun. Takes longer to warm it enough, but it's a whole lot safer.
However, OVERheating any hose can damage it, causing it to collapse or tear down the road. Which is why I advise using a blow dryer instead of a heat gun. Takes longer to warm it enough, but it's a whole lot safer.
Installing hose
When trying to install a hose, all the earlier suggestions apply but to physically get the end of the hose onto the barbed fitting, grab the hose 12"-18" from the end and move it up and down, or back and forth, while pushing it onto the hose barb - it'll save you a little cussing... Works exceptionally well with smaller hose, such as 3/4". Getting the hose off at a later date, however, is another story...
When trying to install a hose, all the earlier suggestions apply but to physically get the end of the hose onto the barbed fitting, grab the hose 12"-18" from the end and move it up and down, or back and forth, while pushing it onto the hose barb - it'll save you a little cussing... Works exceptionally well with smaller hose, such as 3/4". Getting the hose off at a later date, however, is another story...
Getting hose off a fitting
Hiya Vic!
It's USUALLY a lot easier if you warm it with a blower dryer before trying to pull it off. If you plan to re-use the fitting, do NOT cut it or use anything to pry it off. Sawing through it will scratch up the fitting...prying will "dimple" the fitting...both will prevent it from sealing.
Hiya Vic!
It's USUALLY a lot easier if you warm it with a blower dryer before trying to pull it off. If you plan to re-use the fitting, do NOT cut it or use anything to pry it off. Sawing through it will scratch up the fitting...prying will "dimple" the fitting...both will prevent it from sealing.- Status