Does anyone have experience with replacing the sanitation hoses on a 40.5? How is the forward head hose routed to the tank? What cabinets or flooring will need to be removed? Is it possible that the hoses are permeating odor in just 3 years? What brand of hose is the best? Lots of questions, no answers. Any help will be appreciated
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Lots of questions...some answers
Yes, it's possible for hoses to permeate in just 3 years...hoses permeated on my own boat in just 3 months! Although it's expensive, the only hose I recommend is the SeaLand "OdorSafe" brand...it's a white hose, only been on the market about 5-6 years, but in that time I've yet to hear of a single case of odor permeation failure--something I can't say of ANY other hose, black or white. Unless you need to take something apart to gain access to the tank and deck pumpout fittings, you shouldn't have to take anything apart. You shouldn't need to gain access to every inch of the hoses...only each end so you can disconnect and reconnect. An easy way to replace hoses that USUALLY works--it won't if the hose is neatly "tacked" to bulkheads or if the hose is bent around tight corners (which it shouldn't be, 'cuz that can collapse the hose): buy an extra foot and a male-to-male (both ends go INSIDE the hose...'cuz you need a smooth outside) hose coupler. Use PVC cement to connect the new hose to the old...you don't want them coming apart when you pull...and pull the new hose through as you pull the old hose out. Cut the new hose off behind the coupling. To remove hose from fittings (and to put hose on fittings): warm it (be careful...don't MELT it!) with a blow dryer. Use a little dishsoap on fittings when you connect the new hose. Double clamp everything. But before you begin this project, read the articles in the Head Mistress Reference Library...one describes how to determine whether or not your hoses HAVE permeated or not...another describes a whole bunch of other sources for odor inside the boat, and their cures. You'd be amazed at how many people tear out half their sanitation system trying to get rid of a "sewer" odor, when all they really needed to do was THOROUGHLY clean their bilge and sumps.
Yes, it's possible for hoses to permeate in just 3 years...hoses permeated on my own boat in just 3 months! Although it's expensive, the only hose I recommend is the SeaLand "OdorSafe" brand...it's a white hose, only been on the market about 5-6 years, but in that time I've yet to hear of a single case of odor permeation failure--something I can't say of ANY other hose, black or white. Unless you need to take something apart to gain access to the tank and deck pumpout fittings, you shouldn't have to take anything apart. You shouldn't need to gain access to every inch of the hoses...only each end so you can disconnect and reconnect. An easy way to replace hoses that USUALLY works--it won't if the hose is neatly "tacked" to bulkheads or if the hose is bent around tight corners (which it shouldn't be, 'cuz that can collapse the hose): buy an extra foot and a male-to-male (both ends go INSIDE the hose...'cuz you need a smooth outside) hose coupler. Use PVC cement to connect the new hose to the old...you don't want them coming apart when you pull...and pull the new hose through as you pull the old hose out. Cut the new hose off behind the coupling. To remove hose from fittings (and to put hose on fittings): warm it (be careful...don't MELT it!) with a blow dryer. Use a little dishsoap on fittings when you connect the new hose. Double clamp everything. But before you begin this project, read the articles in the Head Mistress Reference Library...one describes how to determine whether or not your hoses HAVE permeated or not...another describes a whole bunch of other sources for odor inside the boat, and their cures. You'd be amazed at how many people tear out half their sanitation system trying to get rid of a "sewer" odor, when all they really needed to do was THOROUGHLY clean their bilge and sumps.
40.5 holding tank hoses
hey Bob, i have a '93 40.5 and changed ALL hoses myself. the hose from the fwd. head to the holding tank does not have anything holding it in place except the clamps on each end. to get the old hose out and the new one in was a "piece of cake". i punched a couple of holes in the end of the old and new hoses, cleanly connected them together with a coathanger wire and a layer of duct tape for smooth travel. have one person "feed" at the fwd head and one pull at the holding tank. search the "photo forum" archives for "40.5" to see the hose i removed, it's scary. i've got photos and info if your interested. i'm in the HOW directory. if you use the white hose,(as i did),it's softer than the black hose and a word of caution, when you tighten on the clamps the soft white hose will "ooozzzz" out in the small slots of the hose clamps. i would highly recommend the new hose clamps that have the solid part of the band under the slots to prevent this.(got mine from BoatUS). to get to the holding tank, you'll have to take up the floor board between the galley counter & nav station, to do that, you'll also have to remove the raised floor at the nav station and i also had to unscrew the aft corner of the starboard settee to raise it approx. 1" to be able to get the floorboard up and out. good luck, take care, Jim Vincent, Toucan
hey Bob, i have a '93 40.5 and changed ALL hoses myself. the hose from the fwd. head to the holding tank does not have anything holding it in place except the clamps on each end. to get the old hose out and the new one in was a "piece of cake". i punched a couple of holes in the end of the old and new hoses, cleanly connected them together with a coathanger wire and a layer of duct tape for smooth travel. have one person "feed" at the fwd head and one pull at the holding tank. search the "photo forum" archives for "40.5" to see the hose i removed, it's scary. i've got photos and info if your interested. i'm in the HOW directory. if you use the white hose,(as i did),it's softer than the black hose and a word of caution, when you tighten on the clamps the soft white hose will "ooozzzz" out in the small slots of the hose clamps. i would highly recommend the new hose clamps that have the solid part of the band under the slots to prevent this.(got mine from BoatUS). to get to the holding tank, you'll have to take up the floor board between the galley counter & nav station, to do that, you'll also have to remove the raised floor at the nav station and i also had to unscrew the aft corner of the starboard settee to raise it approx. 1" to be able to get the floorboard up and out. good luck, take care, Jim Vincent, Toucan
The most God-awful job ever
Just changed my san. hoses and I must say that was the worst thing I've ever done in my life. Be sure that you've pumped your holding tank dry. Flush plenty of hot water and bleach through the hoses/pipes. Pump out again. Repeat or pay the piper... have fun and hold yer nose!
Just changed my san. hoses and I must say that was the worst thing I've ever done in my life. Be sure that you've pumped your holding tank dry. Flush plenty of hot water and bleach through the hoses/pipes. Pump out again. Repeat or pay the piper... have fun and hold yer nose!
No wonder it was an awful job, Scottie!
Hot water--unless it's hot enough to scald you--only makes bacteria multiply faster...and bleach, unless it sits in the system overnight, does no good at all. Re-hosing isn't a bad job--at least not a stinky one, anyway--at all if you first pumpout the tank and then flush it with enough clean fresh water to get rid of all the residue left in the bottom of the tank, and follow that with a about a gallon of clean fresh water mixed with about half a bottle of C.P. (available from the online store here) down the toilet...pump THAT out and follow it with a healthy squirt of C.P. and just a little water. At least 99%--if not ALL--of the odor in the system will be gone. And now that you have rehosed, you'll be able to put off doing it again for much longer if you'll put a cup of undiluted white vinegar down the toilet once a week. Use dry bowl...don't rinse...let it sit in the hoses. Doncha wish you'd asked first and THEN rehosed?
Hot water--unless it's hot enough to scald you--only makes bacteria multiply faster...and bleach, unless it sits in the system overnight, does no good at all. Re-hosing isn't a bad job--at least not a stinky one, anyway--at all if you first pumpout the tank and then flush it with enough clean fresh water to get rid of all the residue left in the bottom of the tank, and follow that with a about a gallon of clean fresh water mixed with about half a bottle of C.P. (available from the online store here) down the toilet...pump THAT out and follow it with a healthy squirt of C.P. and just a little water. At least 99%--if not ALL--of the odor in the system will be gone. And now that you have rehosed, you'll be able to put off doing it again for much longer if you'll put a cup of undiluted white vinegar down the toilet once a week. Use dry bowl...don't rinse...let it sit in the hoses. Doncha wish you'd asked first and THEN rehosed?
Read this for hints
I replaced my hoses as well. To make your life easy to run the forward head hose, take out the forward cabin cabinet under the bunk. The hose runs around this area. Next, replace your tank vent!!. The hose runs out the stb side of the boat, just above the tank. Haven't you noticed a really awful smell everytime you tack? this is the reason. Run the new vent to the bow, and put in a sealand odour filter. You will not regret this. Any questions, call me. 416-487-0500
I replaced my hoses as well. To make your life easy to run the forward head hose, take out the forward cabin cabinet under the bunk. The hose runs around this area. Next, replace your tank vent!!. The hose runs out the stb side of the boat, just above the tank. Haven't you noticed a really awful smell everytime you tack? this is the reason. Run the new vent to the bow, and put in a sealand odour filter. You will not regret this. Any questions, call me. 416-487-0500
Skip the filter...
They're expensive...and are only good for a season at best...immediately toast if they get wet. However, re-routing your tank vent line so your tank contents don't run out it when you're heeled is a very good idea. In fact, move the vent fitting (to the top of the tank if you have at least 2.5" clearance above it) to a location that's as close to the centerline of the boat as possible. That way, when you heel toward the side of the boat the vent thru-hull is on, the vent line is up hill...and when you heel the other way, whatever is in the tank is sloshing against the opposite side of it from the vent fitting.
They're expensive...and are only good for a season at best...immediately toast if they get wet. However, re-routing your tank vent line so your tank contents don't run out it when you're heeled is a very good idea. In fact, move the vent fitting (to the top of the tank if you have at least 2.5" clearance above it) to a location that's as close to the centerline of the boat as possible. That way, when you heel toward the side of the boat the vent thru-hull is on, the vent line is up hill...and when you heel the other way, whatever is in the tank is sloshing against the opposite side of it from the vent fitting.
hoses replaced
I'm the one that started this smelly subject. We changed the hoses on Tuesday. They really did stink, even laying on the dock. Job was very straight forward. Attached the new hose to the old ond using a wooden plug with screws throught hose in three places on each hose. Pulled hose from v berth and pushed from salon. 4 Hrs, all the hoses. The boat already smells better. Filled until water poured out of vent as test.
I'm the one that started this smelly subject. We changed the hoses on Tuesday. They really did stink, even laying on the dock. Job was very straight forward. Attached the new hose to the old ond using a wooden plug with screws throught hose in three places on each hose. Pulled hose from v berth and pushed from salon. 4 Hrs, all the hoses. The boat already smells better. Filled until water poured out of vent as test.
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