Hi Everyone, I am sanding my sailboat and wondered what was the best way to sand the non skid area. Using a DA sander for all other surfaces. Would be very very hard to sand by hand. I was trying to use a wire brush in a drill but that doesn't seem to work well. The wire bush does clean out the groves but will the paint stick to that surface? The surface is all very daul jel-kote. I am painting with a two part epoxy very expensive boat paint that worked very well on the bottom surfaces.. Thanks for any Ideas.. Mark
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A different approch
The non-skid surface is usually applied over the gelcoat. I've heard of folks sanding it off and then re-making a non-skid surface but never heard of anybody sanding it to paint it. Sanding would seem to remove the properties that make it a non-skid surface unless I misunderstood your post. If you have a grid pattern non-skid surface then you are in for a lot of work no matter how you skin the cat. You can make a mold of the old surface and use it to cast a new one but that is an enormous amount of work. You could change over to a stucko non-skid which can be hand made with ease but that may not go with the rest of the boat.
The non-skid surface is usually applied over the gelcoat. I've heard of folks sanding it off and then re-making a non-skid surface but never heard of anybody sanding it to paint it. Sanding would seem to remove the properties that make it a non-skid surface unless I misunderstood your post. If you have a grid pattern non-skid surface then you are in for a lot of work no matter how you skin the cat. You can make a mold of the old surface and use it to cast a new one but that is an enormous amount of work. You could change over to a stucko non-skid which can be hand made with ease but that may not go with the rest of the boat.
No!!!!!
WTFO!!! The non-skid is not meant to be shiny. Let it be. My suggestion would be to use a heavy abrasive like AJAX to clean it, but let it be dull. The purpose is to not go OVERBOARD. Let it be and just keep it clean.
WTFO!!! The non-skid is not meant to be shiny. Let it be. My suggestion would be to use a heavy abrasive like AJAX to clean it, but let it be dull. The purpose is to not go OVERBOARD. Let it be and just keep it clean.
The only real..
The only real effective way to sand and prep a molded in non-skid, and have the paint adhere well, is to sand it flat, fair it with epoxy / fairing filler then apply the primer and then the finish coat with added non-skid media.. The other option would be to use a soda blaster but you need to know what you're doing... I've watched the guys at my yards finishing shop, sand flat, fair and re-create the non-skid many times. P.S. Gary the question pertained to paint prep..
The only real effective way to sand and prep a molded in non-skid, and have the paint adhere well, is to sand it flat, fair it with epoxy / fairing filler then apply the primer and then the finish coat with added non-skid media.. The other option would be to use a soda blaster but you need to know what you're doing... I've watched the guys at my yards finishing shop, sand flat, fair and re-create the non-skid many times. P.S. Gary the question pertained to paint prep..
Repainting non-skid ......
I find that if painting with a 2 part Urethane, etc. such as Interlux "Perfection" etc., there is NO need to sand the non-skid nor apply a primer. Especially for 'sanded' nonskid, just scrub very well with coarse cleanser, remove the residual 'grit' with a water hose. Thin the paint to it 'maximum' (usually 5-10%); then, directly roll on the paint and work-out all the bubbles with a 'tipping' brush; the tipping brush is used to remove the excess paint that fills-in the 'valleys' of the non-skid. Obviously, for FLAT or non non-skid surfaces you need to apply primer, etc. but sanded non-skid has enough 'tooth' to hold the paint without primer, etc. Sanded non-skid and most 'tight basket-weave' patterns will hold such paint without primer .... just apply 'thin' or work out the excess with a brush so not to 'fill-in' whats already there. Dont do this with "BrightSides' or other relatively 'thick' paints ... just Interlux "Perfection" or similar 'thin' paints. You can also discuss/verify this 'technique' for non-skid with the application engineers / customer service at Interlux or from the manufacture of your specific chosen paint.
I find that if painting with a 2 part Urethane, etc. such as Interlux "Perfection" etc., there is NO need to sand the non-skid nor apply a primer. Especially for 'sanded' nonskid, just scrub very well with coarse cleanser, remove the residual 'grit' with a water hose. Thin the paint to it 'maximum' (usually 5-10%); then, directly roll on the paint and work-out all the bubbles with a 'tipping' brush; the tipping brush is used to remove the excess paint that fills-in the 'valleys' of the non-skid. Obviously, for FLAT or non non-skid surfaces you need to apply primer, etc. but sanded non-skid has enough 'tooth' to hold the paint without primer, etc. Sanded non-skid and most 'tight basket-weave' patterns will hold such paint without primer .... just apply 'thin' or work out the excess with a brush so not to 'fill-in' whats already there. Dont do this with "BrightSides' or other relatively 'thick' paints ... just Interlux "Perfection" or similar 'thin' paints. You can also discuss/verify this 'technique' for non-skid with the application engineers / customer service at Interlux or from the manufacture of your specific chosen paint.
paint no, no
Painting, in my opinion, would be a mistake. Why don't you just clean it real good and put a liquid non buffing wax down to help keep the area clean. I use oxalic acid which is basically wood bleach. This is the primary stuff in most heavy duty cleners but a whloe lot less expensive. A tub will last 5 years. You can get a tub of crystals from a good independent hardware store. the places like Lowe's and Home depot do not carry it. The product is made by Savogran. A tablespoon in a gallon of hot water and a scrub brush, a little elbow grease will clean the hardest stains.
Painting, in my opinion, would be a mistake. Why don't you just clean it real good and put a liquid non buffing wax down to help keep the area clean. I use oxalic acid which is basically wood bleach. This is the primary stuff in most heavy duty cleners but a whloe lot less expensive. A tub will last 5 years. You can get a tub of crystals from a good independent hardware store. the places like Lowe's and Home depot do not carry it. The product is made by Savogran. A tablespoon in a gallon of hot water and a scrub brush, a little elbow grease will clean the hardest stains.
Scotchbrite pad
Use a scotchbrite pad to scoff it up a bit. Make sure it is clean then paint it. It is that simple if all you want to do is paint over what you have
Use a scotchbrite pad to scoff it up a bit. Make sure it is clean then paint it. It is that simple if all you want to do is paint over what you have
Non-skid on Hunters was gel-coat.
The original non-skid surface on the older Hunters was a rollable/paintable gel-coat. It was traditionally applied with a nappy roller and then knocked down. Considering many of the original Cherubini's had this stuff since the 70's I doubt you will find any paints that are going to hold up that well. If you find a good fiberglass/gel-coat guy they can re-do this like new. It makes cleaning your boat much easier since you do not need to worry about what products you are using on your decks.
The original non-skid surface on the older Hunters was a rollable/paintable gel-coat. It was traditionally applied with a nappy roller and then knocked down. Considering many of the original Cherubini's had this stuff since the 70's I doubt you will find any paints that are going to hold up that well. If you find a good fiberglass/gel-coat guy they can re-do this like new. It makes cleaning your boat much easier since you do not need to worry about what products you are using on your decks.
Bronze wool
Scuffing with Bronze wool has been described. Check with the paint manufacturer on the proper procedure. Most importantly is removing and wax and other release agents from the surface to be painted.
Scuffing with Bronze wool has been described. Check with the paint manufacturer on the proper procedure. Most importantly is removing and wax and other release agents from the surface to be painted.
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