Sanding nooks and crannies

reefmagnet · Dec 14, 2011

Ouch that could be tricky. There is a paint removal disc that 3M sells
that mounts to an electric drill that may work. It looks like a scotchbrite
and won't hurt gelcoat too much provided you don't press too hard or spin
it too fast. There may be sizes available that fit the bill.The other solution might be to simply just use paint stripper, especially
if you plan on repainting. There are also mini "flap disks" that fit drills
and dremel tools.

vegatern · Dec 14, 2011

I have not done this but a neighbor applied non-skid to his deck by painting gellcoat resin on the deck and rolling over with a paint roller while it was still soft, but stiff enough hold the texture. The result was a very aggressive non-skid. I don't know what kind of roller he used.
Craig Tern 1519

n4lbl · Dec 14, 2011

I hope that no one objects, but I'd like to add to this topic, not change
it. As someone new to boat ownership I've observed that cabin soles are
often varnished (or something similar) wood and slippery. I haven't yet
seen non-skip on a cabin sole and it seems just as appropriate there as on
deck. Am I missing something?

thanx,,,
Alan
Minke, #2505

Vega1447 · Dec 14, 2011

I have a strip of carpet over my cabin sole - sad or what?

I just power-wash it every few months having soaked in carpet cleaning
fluid then air dry over a few days.

Definitely non-slip and I use that rubber under-rug anti-slip matting
stuff to stop the carpet slipping on the sole.

Works fine..

John V1447 Breakaway

pjacobs55 · Dec 14, 2011

The more aggressive the non-skid the harder to get out the grunge. The
classic cabin sole was teak with ½ inch holly strips. The holly tended to
become very slightly raised and offered just the right amount of grip. The
leatherette on the Vega sole seems pretty good, cleanable but with some
tooth.

Nicholas H. Walsh P.A.

120 Exchange Street

P.O. Box 7206

Portland ME 04112

207/772-2191

Fax 207/774-3940

This email is from a law firm and may contain material that is confidential
or privileged. If you suspect you were not the intended recipient, please
delete the email and give us a call.

frankdeba27 · Dec 14, 2011

Cindy,

For those nooks I made up a piece of board and rounded it to fit the radius. Then I wrapped a heavy grit aluminum oxide sandpaper around the board. It was alot of handwork but it came out great. In my case I had given the entire boat two coats of epoxy resin to make up for the gel coat that had been worn downand that had a sort of orange peel finish that had to be dealt with.

Frank D.
Vega 2141, Carpe Diem

n6ric · Dec 14, 2011

Cindy,
I took a class earlier this year on painting with 2 part LP. The instructor does all the painting of the boats that are used by Orange Coast College School of Sailing and Seamanship. They have a good number of boats that get abused by students. He was a wizard when it came to painting with LP (both roll and tip, as well as spraying). As a part of the class we put non skip on a number of different surfaces. Before they banned it in California, he used Awl Grip paints and their Griptex nonskid. He used the coarse (it comes in fine, coarse and extra coarse) and as far as I know he still does. It can be used with different paints. It's very easy to apply and gives a beautiful finish. I just bought a couple of cans of the coarse to use on my deck. (I'll be using it with Interlux Perfection because it has the color of blue I want for the hull.) You can get a copy of the Product Data Sheet on Awl Grip's website and it tells you how to apply it, but basically you apply the first coat of paint and while it's still wet, you apply the Griptex to the surface, like shaking salt on a steak, only much heavier and in an even layer. Once the paint is dry, you can brush off the excess (saving it for reuse) then use a leaf blower, or similar, to blow the surface clean. It's now ready for the second coat of paint.

There are other products you can just paint on in one step, but they're expensive and you'll have a hard time matching the paint on the areas you don't cover in nonskid.

Just my two cents worth. I hope it helps.

Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net

tim_klynn · Dec 16, 2011

I've had good luck hand sanding odd spots on wood with Stick-it sticky back sandpaper on a piece of wood/foam rubber/dowel etc that fits the contour.
Sharp shavehooks or contour scrapers may help.
Fein makes an attachment for their mulitmaster that will fit to contours.
Porter-cable, bosch and dremel all make electric contour sanders as well.
You need something fairly stiff to back the sandpaper.
If you sand using only paper backed by your fingers, you will likely sand grooves that match your fingers (as well as get sore fingers)
For non-skid, a lot of the boats around here have been using Kiwi Grip and like it. -Tim

________________________________
From: "FDEBAGGIS@..." FDEBAGGIS@...
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2011 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Sanding nooks and crannies

Cindy,

For those nooks I made up a piece of board and rounded it to fit the radius. Then I wrapped a heavy grit aluminum oxide sandpaper around the board. It was alot of handwork but it came out great. In my case I had given the entire boat two coats of epoxy resin to make up for the gel coat that had been worn downand that had a sort of orange peel finish that had to be dealt with.

Frank D.
Vega 2141, Carpe Diem