Sam, you mention that one of your projects is new galley laminate. Can you give us some detail on how you plan to do this and with what materials? Do you glue over top the old for example? And if yes then how will the fiddles reinstall, etc.? The picture is of Sanders' H37C galley which has obviously been redone. It was done by a previous owner so we do not have the detail. Some Cherubinis seem to have a trim around the icebox and alcohol bin lids. Will you do that? You can see in the Related Link that Gene used ceramic tile. But then he rebuilt the entire galley. It it might be difficult to just add a top like that. Nice look though.
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Just to confuse you
Ed I just did my 37c. we replaced the old counter with new formica. I was able to match the old perfectly with an off the shelf white. i covered over the old with new laminate and used contact adhesive. then trimmed with a router. came out great, took off the trim and am redoing that too. the ice box trim came out in one piece. WE also redid the bulkhead behind the counter top too. the same way. then i replaced the engine cover with a.c plywood sealed with epoxy. and did the same to the entire wall between the aft cabin and engine. Its now all new with mica on one side and expoy coated on the other. i took out the cross beam at the top of the steps and eliminated it so i can get to my enginge alot easier and replaced the pannel behind the ladder with a white formica pannel too. Its brighter and you can actually see the steps. while we were at it i redid the engine room, painted the engine and trans and the entire area.
Ed I just did my 37c. we replaced the old counter with new formica. I was able to match the old perfectly with an off the shelf white. i covered over the old with new laminate and used contact adhesive. then trimmed with a router. came out great, took off the trim and am redoing that too. the ice box trim came out in one piece. WE also redid the bulkhead behind the counter top too. the same way. then i replaced the engine cover with a.c plywood sealed with epoxy. and did the same to the entire wall between the aft cabin and engine. Its now all new with mica on one side and expoy coated on the other. i took out the cross beam at the top of the steps and eliminated it so i can get to my enginge alot easier and replaced the pannel behind the ladder with a white formica pannel too. Its brighter and you can actually see the steps. while we were at it i redid the engine room, painted the engine and trans and the entire area.
So Ed, pictures?
Do you have pictures Ed? Or do I have to wait until February when I can see it in person?
Are you using the same fiddles or did you buy new ones? What about a backsplash?
Do you have pictures Ed? Or do I have to wait until February when I can see it in person?
Are you using the same fiddles or did you buy new ones? What about a backsplash?Ill work on some pics
but i am looking forward to your visit. I used all the same fiddles and the moldings, I put on some extra moldings to trim it out a little better at the back of the counter top. I really didnt want to post the pics till i get the trim refinished. It looks very stock. which is fine with me. The back splash was a bit tricky to pattern but we made a template and cut the formica to match it, then hung it. It was easier than I thought it would be. but I did have some good help working with me.
but i am looking forward to your visit. I used all the same fiddles and the moldings, I put on some extra moldings to trim it out a little better at the back of the counter top. I really didnt want to post the pics till i get the trim refinished. It looks very stock. which is fine with me. The back splash was a bit tricky to pattern but we made a template and cut the formica to match it, then hung it. It was easier than I thought it would be. but I did have some good help working with me.
The plan is;;;
Simply put I'm going to slap some "Wilsonart" brand laminate on the countertop to cover over the ugly, yellowish original stuff. I ordered a sheet 5 foot wide by 8 foot long which will enable me to cover the entire "L" shaped counter without a seam. It will take a little less than half of the sheet. Lots left over to cover other surfaces. The sink is loose still from last winters faucet change and will lift right out. (Original removal was a bitch because during construction the entire counter top is assembled and then attached to the base in the boat. This places the faucet so close to the cabinet wall that it is near impossible to remove.) The teak "fiddles" are screwed from below and have been out before for varnishing so that will be easy also. Moving on, the mahogany veneer edge band trim will be removed with a heat gun and sharp putty knife, easier than it sounds. The old laminate is solidly attached to the plywood base so prep will only consist of a soap and water wash, probably brillo or such, then a chemical wash; paint thinner, lacquer thinner, and acetone. This should take care of any and all water or chemicaly disolvable contaminants. Then a scuff down with about an 80 grit sandpaper for some "tooth". Now comes the tricky part. I hinged my ice box top which put several screws through the original surface and want to pick up those through the new surface. I'll make up inserts from screws, pointed at the top and set them into the holes slightly proud of the surface. Then I lay the rough cut sheet over the counter and inserts, tap over each one to mark, then drill through against a wood backup with a very sharp drill bit. Then it's a matter of rolling out a good SOLVENT based contact cement on both surfaces. When dry, with thin dowells as separators I get ONE shot at positioning the sheet exactly over the inserts. Then I get to trim the edges, a simple matter where a router will fit in , but anywhere else it's hand work and I'll have to figure that part out as I go, probably careful work with a hand file. Then I drill the holes for the screws that hold the fiddles from below. My angle head drill is a help here. Then iron on new mahogany edge banding and varnish it, a little bit more assembly and it's time to move on to the next project. Simple, right?
Simply put I'm going to slap some "Wilsonart" brand laminate on the countertop to cover over the ugly, yellowish original stuff. I ordered a sheet 5 foot wide by 8 foot long which will enable me to cover the entire "L" shaped counter without a seam. It will take a little less than half of the sheet. Lots left over to cover other surfaces. The sink is loose still from last winters faucet change and will lift right out. (Original removal was a bitch because during construction the entire counter top is assembled and then attached to the base in the boat. This places the faucet so close to the cabinet wall that it is near impossible to remove.) The teak "fiddles" are screwed from below and have been out before for varnishing so that will be easy also. Moving on, the mahogany veneer edge band trim will be removed with a heat gun and sharp putty knife, easier than it sounds. The old laminate is solidly attached to the plywood base so prep will only consist of a soap and water wash, probably brillo or such, then a chemical wash; paint thinner, lacquer thinner, and acetone. This should take care of any and all water or chemicaly disolvable contaminants. Then a scuff down with about an 80 grit sandpaper for some "tooth". Now comes the tricky part. I hinged my ice box top which put several screws through the original surface and want to pick up those through the new surface. I'll make up inserts from screws, pointed at the top and set them into the holes slightly proud of the surface. Then I lay the rough cut sheet over the counter and inserts, tap over each one to mark, then drill through against a wood backup with a very sharp drill bit. Then it's a matter of rolling out a good SOLVENT based contact cement on both surfaces. When dry, with thin dowells as separators I get ONE shot at positioning the sheet exactly over the inserts. Then I get to trim the edges, a simple matter where a router will fit in , but anywhere else it's hand work and I'll have to figure that part out as I go, probably careful work with a hand file. Then I drill the holes for the screws that hold the fiddles from below. My angle head drill is a help here. Then iron on new mahogany edge banding and varnish it, a little bit more assembly and it's time to move on to the next project. Simple, right?
Wow
after reading this I am glad i did not try to do mine in one piece. dont think i could have pulled it off with my skills. It should be great when your done!!
after reading this I am glad i did not try to do mine in one piece. dont think i could have pulled it off with my skills. It should be great when your done!!
Second that "Wow"!
Thanks for the detailed project plan Sam. I'd be off to start it except it is 20 degrees and there is a foot of snow on the boat cover.
Thanks for the detailed project plan Sam. I'd be off to start it except it is 20 degrees and there is a foot of snow on the boat cover.
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