We recently purchased a 1997 Hunter 340 - the boat has been very well maintained and all sails and rigging are in excellent condition. We have trouble getting better than 6 knots even in a 25 knot breeze. The boat is due for scraping and antifouling but it is not overly "hairy". We have been told that there is too much pre-bend in the mast and the main is not sitting completely flat as a result. Is the main the problem or are we looking for too much speed? The headsail is a 110% genoa. Mal Trotter S/V Synergy Mooloolaba Queensland, Australia
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Pete
6 knot a problem
we have a 336 (almost the same) and get 6 knots no big deal check your speed are you using a knotmeter or gps speed? could be knot meter needs calibrated. 6 knots is doable but won't get much faster boat speed then seven
we have a 336 (almost the same) and get 6 knots no big deal check your speed are you using a knotmeter or gps speed? could be knot meter needs calibrated. 6 knots is doable but won't get much faster boat speed then seven
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Wynn Ferrel
Agree. Calibrate the knot meter
We put a GPS to the boat and found that the knot meter was off by 10%. Like the first writter said, a little over 7 knots is about as fast as we've seen with the standard issue sails. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility H340
We put a GPS to the boat and found that the knot meter was off by 10%. Like the first writter said, a little over 7 knots is about as fast as we've seen with the standard issue sails. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility H340
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Alex
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Jim Russell
Prebend Not the Problem
I would agree with the others that you most likely have a knotmeter problem. Either that, or you are dragging an unusual amount of material on your hull and keel. On my 340 we find 7.2 is a normal max, and faster with the right waves and wind . . . . And we really have a large amount of prebend. However the hull is clean and bottom paint touched up annually. And in light winds, a feathering prop is worth the price.
I would agree with the others that you most likely have a knotmeter problem. Either that, or you are dragging an unusual amount of material on your hull and keel. On my 340 we find 7.2 is a normal max, and faster with the right waves and wind . . . . And we really have a large amount of prebend. However the hull is clean and bottom paint touched up annually. And in light winds, a feathering prop is worth the price.
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Chris Herndl
knotmeter
I agree that you should check your knotmeter. Mine was off quite a bit. However, my knotmeter almost never agrees exactly with my GPS. BY the way, my knotmeter reads faster (than my GPS) when I am heeled on a port tack and slower on a Starbord tack.
I agree that you should check your knotmeter. Mine was off quite a bit. However, my knotmeter almost never agrees exactly with my GPS. BY the way, my knotmeter reads faster (than my GPS) when I am heeled on a port tack and slower on a Starbord tack.
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Frank A.
Agree with the others
I purchased a new (2001) H340 and found the knotmeter to be way out of calibration also. The boat always felt like it was flying but the knotmeter never read over 5.5kts. This was verified by blowing past many larger boats in informal racing. I calibrated over a known distance course and verified with two separate GPS units. Assuming you have the Raytheon unit, the procedure is spelled out in the manual and is quite simple. Properly trimmed in 12-14kts the boat should easily reach 7.5kts. We've seen as high as 7.9kt-8.1kt on a beam reach. Key is having the sails properly trimmed and balanced. With the roached mainsail, there's a lot of power up there but if not trimmed correctly, in those wind ranges it will actually slow you down. Anything beyond 15kt, put a reef in. You'll heel less and get all the speed back.
I purchased a new (2001) H340 and found the knotmeter to be way out of calibration also. The boat always felt like it was flying but the knotmeter never read over 5.5kts. This was verified by blowing past many larger boats in informal racing. I calibrated over a known distance course and verified with two separate GPS units. Assuming you have the Raytheon unit, the procedure is spelled out in the manual and is quite simple. Properly trimmed in 12-14kts the boat should easily reach 7.5kts. We've seen as high as 7.9kt-8.1kt on a beam reach. Key is having the sails properly trimmed and balanced. With the roached mainsail, there's a lot of power up there but if not trimmed correctly, in those wind ranges it will actually slow you down. Anything beyond 15kt, put a reef in. You'll heel less and get all the speed back.
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Bryan C.
Cheapest way to increase your speed.
Just calibrate your knotmeter! I was doing 9 knots the other day! It was great! Seriously, knotmeters are notoriously inaccurate. Even if you carefully calibrate, a little marine growth around the impeller can mess it up. Best way to calibrate now days is to use the trusty old GPS (adjusting for any current).
Just calibrate your knotmeter! I was doing 9 knots the other day! It was great! Seriously, knotmeters are notoriously inaccurate. Even if you carefully calibrate, a little marine growth around the impeller can mess it up. Best way to calibrate now days is to use the trusty old GPS (adjusting for any current).
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Jim Haynie
Misconceptions!
This discussion shows a common misconception. There is no reason for the GPS and the knotmeter to agree. GPS tells speed over ground but knotmeter tells (not YOUR SPEED, BUT) how fast water passes the transducer. You could even be going the wrong way and not know it. When going toward current, the boat will go slower by GPS than when going with current--but the knotmeter will read essentially the same both ways. Original writer said they were going fast--how do they know?? I have a friend with a 36 footer that is easily tricked into believing what the knotmeter or GPS says instananeously--neither is designed for that but rather to give a trend. He makes mistakes such as tightening up a previously properly trimmed sheet and exclaiming "wow!, look how much faster we are going!" Both GPS and the knotmeter will agree that for that instant, just because you "jerked" additional APPARENT wind into the sail and probably knocked the boat off course in the process you were for an instant "going faster", but when the boat recovers from this harsh action it will simply heel excessively, spill wind from the oversheeted sail to regain composure, and be going slower than it would have been if left alone. Calibrate the knotmeter by timing yourself while motoring BOTH ways over a known distance in as calm a conditions as you can find. This will result in the truthful (valid) reading of the knotmeter, but do not expect it to agree with the GPS except in rare instances of no current and little heeling.
This discussion shows a common misconception. There is no reason for the GPS and the knotmeter to agree. GPS tells speed over ground but knotmeter tells (not YOUR SPEED, BUT) how fast water passes the transducer. You could even be going the wrong way and not know it. When going toward current, the boat will go slower by GPS than when going with current--but the knotmeter will read essentially the same both ways. Original writer said they were going fast--how do they know?? I have a friend with a 36 footer that is easily tricked into believing what the knotmeter or GPS says instananeously--neither is designed for that but rather to give a trend. He makes mistakes such as tightening up a previously properly trimmed sheet and exclaiming "wow!, look how much faster we are going!" Both GPS and the knotmeter will agree that for that instant, just because you "jerked" additional APPARENT wind into the sail and probably knocked the boat off course in the process you were for an instant "going faster", but when the boat recovers from this harsh action it will simply heel excessively, spill wind from the oversheeted sail to regain composure, and be going slower than it would have been if left alone. Calibrate the knotmeter by timing yourself while motoring BOTH ways over a known distance in as calm a conditions as you can find. This will result in the truthful (valid) reading of the knotmeter, but do not expect it to agree with the GPS except in rare instances of no current and little heeling.
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Jim Russell
Bryan is right
According to my knot meter I can sail faster on one tact than the other, not because of boat characteristics, but because 1) the knotmeter is affected by the flow of water over the hull; 2)it is not dead center but sits to port of the keel line by several inches; and finally 3) it is not perfectly parallel with the keel line. So the gps will probably be more accurate. On the other hand, a variance of 1 or 2 knots between the gps and the knot meter suggests a calibration problem for the knot meter.
According to my knot meter I can sail faster on one tact than the other, not because of boat characteristics, but because 1) the knotmeter is affected by the flow of water over the hull; 2)it is not dead center but sits to port of the keel line by several inches; and finally 3) it is not perfectly parallel with the keel line. So the gps will probably be more accurate. On the other hand, a variance of 1 or 2 knots between the gps and the knot meter suggests a calibration problem for the knot meter.
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Mal Trotter
Indicated speed not my problem
My thanks to all who have been kind enough to contribute towards solving my slow sailing problem but I feel I have not made myself clear. I do not believe I have a problem with either my knotmater or my GPS - I just think the boat is perhaps not sailing as rapidly as it might. Is anyone getting an accurate speed in excess of 6 knots out of their H340? If so, please share your technique or assist me to find the error of mine. Again, thanks to all for your input.
My thanks to all who have been kind enough to contribute towards solving my slow sailing problem but I feel I have not made myself clear. I do not believe I have a problem with either my knotmater or my GPS - I just think the boat is perhaps not sailing as rapidly as it might. Is anyone getting an accurate speed in excess of 6 knots out of their H340? If so, please share your technique or assist me to find the error of mine. Again, thanks to all for your input.
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Larry Jackel
>6k knots is possible, but not routine
With a clean bottom, no wind, and no waves, I can motor at 6.4 knots using the engine at 3000 rpm. (Speed is measured by a differential GPS.) I can achieve the same speed on a reach in 15 knot true wind with full sail. On rare occasions I have attained 7 knots, but that would be on a broad reach with ~20 knots true wind. At those times, I believe I had too much sail for safe boat handling. To avoid excessive weather helm and healing on the 340 I take the first reef at 15 knots true and the 2nd reef when the wind nears 20 knots. Last weekend I sailed in Barnegat Bay with a reefed jib and no main in 25 knots wind with 30 knots gusts at 6 knots on a close reach. It would have been possible to make 7 knots in those conditions on a broad reach if I had also used a double reefed main, but if I had to head up for any reason, the boat would have been very hard to handle. On my 340, healing greater than 35 degrees results in severe weather helm with the rudder often stalling. Thus it's usually hard for me to be comfortable in the boat if I have enough sail up to exceed 6.5 knots.
With a clean bottom, no wind, and no waves, I can motor at 6.4 knots using the engine at 3000 rpm. (Speed is measured by a differential GPS.) I can achieve the same speed on a reach in 15 knot true wind with full sail. On rare occasions I have attained 7 knots, but that would be on a broad reach with ~20 knots true wind. At those times, I believe I had too much sail for safe boat handling. To avoid excessive weather helm and healing on the 340 I take the first reef at 15 knots true and the 2nd reef when the wind nears 20 knots. Last weekend I sailed in Barnegat Bay with a reefed jib and no main in 25 knots wind with 30 knots gusts at 6 knots on a close reach. It would have been possible to make 7 knots in those conditions on a broad reach if I had also used a double reefed main, but if I had to head up for any reason, the boat would have been very hard to handle. On my 340, healing greater than 35 degrees results in severe weather helm with the rudder often stalling. Thus it's usually hard for me to be comfortable in the boat if I have enough sail up to exceed 6.5 knots.
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Mal Trotter
Thanks Larry
Thanks very much for the info Larry, your reply has confirmed what I suspected in terms of the sailing performance of the boat but it's nice to hear that it wasn't just me mucking things up. We regularly experience 15 to 25 kts off the coast where I live on Queensland's Sunshine Coast. On quieter days I have been getting say 6 kts (on the GPS plotter) in around 12-14 kts of true wind close hauled with a 110% furling genoa and a full main although a puff over say 15 kts created a lot of heel. Thanks for the info on engine/boat speed. Do you use a 2 or 3 blade prop?
Thanks very much for the info Larry, your reply has confirmed what I suspected in terms of the sailing performance of the boat but it's nice to hear that it wasn't just me mucking things up. We regularly experience 15 to 25 kts off the coast where I live on Queensland's Sunshine Coast. On quieter days I have been getting say 6 kts (on the GPS plotter) in around 12-14 kts of true wind close hauled with a 110% furling genoa and a full main although a puff over say 15 kts created a lot of heel. Thanks for the info on engine/boat speed. Do you use a 2 or 3 blade prop?
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