I'm planning to cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca from Port Townsend to Friday Harbor for the first time in my 1989 Hunter 30. Does anyone have some advice. like what forecast to listen to, wind, tide, when to go, when not to go, websites? anything. Thanks Steve
Sailing in the Strait of Juan de Fuca
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Slack before Ebb, Early
When I've crossed, I look to go as early in the day as I can (winds pick up in the afternoon in my experience), at around the slack before Ebb at Admiralty Inlet. Listen to the VHF (162.55, etc) weather broadcasts and avoid anything that sounds like "small craft advisories, east entrance". The wind report at Smith Island also gives you an indication of what is happening about in the middle of where you are going. There is a lot of big traffic through there, so pay attention. Fog can be an issue when crossing. You might not see it when you leave, but it can roll in as you are well on your way. If you do get caught in the fog, listen carefully and use your sound signals. When I have taken the "chicken route" across, I head rather NE from Point Wilson until I have crossed Admiralty inlet and can register something like 90 ft on the depth sounder and then follow that contour up the shoreline of Whidbey Island - with the destination of Skyline Marina in Anacortes in mind. Then head into back across Rosario Strait into the islands and friday harbor. Going the more direct route to Cattle Pass will put your navigational skills (or your GPS)to good use and makes the journey shorter. We saw whales just south of Cattle Pass last year (my wife said "look at those jetskis" - and I thought they can't be jetskis, they're illegal in SanJuan County...). You'll be hitting that passage probably somewhat against the current. If you don't have a reservation at Friday Harbor, you can call on VHF Ch66 and they'll get you set up. If it's busy (e.g. Friday Harbor Jazz Festival), you may end up rafting up to three deep on the inside of the Customs pier. Can't think of the name of the tavern up the hill and on the corner, but the ChiliDog is to die for! Enjoy your trip! It's a beautiful part of the country.
When I've crossed, I look to go as early in the day as I can (winds pick up in the afternoon in my experience), at around the slack before Ebb at Admiralty Inlet. Listen to the VHF (162.55, etc) weather broadcasts and avoid anything that sounds like "small craft advisories, east entrance". The wind report at Smith Island also gives you an indication of what is happening about in the middle of where you are going. There is a lot of big traffic through there, so pay attention. Fog can be an issue when crossing. You might not see it when you leave, but it can roll in as you are well on your way. If you do get caught in the fog, listen carefully and use your sound signals. When I have taken the "chicken route" across, I head rather NE from Point Wilson until I have crossed Admiralty inlet and can register something like 90 ft on the depth sounder and then follow that contour up the shoreline of Whidbey Island - with the destination of Skyline Marina in Anacortes in mind. Then head into back across Rosario Strait into the islands and friday harbor. Going the more direct route to Cattle Pass will put your navigational skills (or your GPS)to good use and makes the journey shorter. We saw whales just south of Cattle Pass last year (my wife said "look at those jetskis" - and I thought they can't be jetskis, they're illegal in SanJuan County...). You'll be hitting that passage probably somewhat against the current. If you don't have a reservation at Friday Harbor, you can call on VHF Ch66 and they'll get you set up. If it's busy (e.g. Friday Harbor Jazz Festival), you may end up rafting up to three deep on the inside of the Customs pier. Can't think of the name of the tavern up the hill and on the corner, but the ChiliDog is to die for! Enjoy your trip! It's a beautiful part of the country.
It's not too bad.
Tim had some very good advice. Leaving well before noon increases your chances of having calm conditions for your crossing. 15 to 20 knots is common on a summer afternoon, and sometimes it's dead calm for the entire six hour crossing. But if you do get a typical nice day west wind, you can just about sail to cattle pass on one tack, depending on current. An Ebb is good. I usually leave on an ebb, and arrive on a flood (slow boat?). Pay attention to the currents at cattle pass. There can be some tide rips to contend with at times. There are also some major rocky areas on either side as you come in to the entrance. On one of my last trips that way, we were almost set into the rocks to the East by a very strong flood current. The wind also peaked in a 30-knot gust. Did some fancy tacking, and once we entered the pass we were swept straight up towards Friday Harbor. I've also done the West shore of Whidbey Island route, but I get a tinge of nervousness if it's a lee shore in a strong wind. Also, the Canadian Current Atlas that was mentioned a while ago on this site is very helpful for planning purposes.
Tim had some very good advice. Leaving well before noon increases your chances of having calm conditions for your crossing. 15 to 20 knots is common on a summer afternoon, and sometimes it's dead calm for the entire six hour crossing. But if you do get a typical nice day west wind, you can just about sail to cattle pass on one tack, depending on current. An Ebb is good. I usually leave on an ebb, and arrive on a flood (slow boat?). Pay attention to the currents at cattle pass. There can be some tide rips to contend with at times. There are also some major rocky areas on either side as you come in to the entrance. On one of my last trips that way, we were almost set into the rocks to the East by a very strong flood current. The wind also peaked in a 30-knot gust. Did some fancy tacking, and once we entered the pass we were swept straight up towards Friday Harbor. I've also done the West shore of Whidbey Island route, but I get a tinge of nervousness if it's a lee shore in a strong wind. Also, the Canadian Current Atlas that was mentioned a while ago on this site is very helpful for planning purposes.
Juan de Fuca, yes!
Hi Steve, Juan de Fuca Strait has a nasty reputation which is richly deserved. But it can be crossed safely with good planning. You've already received some good advice. During the summer, thermal heating over the Washington mainland accelerates the westerlies blowing down the Strait in the afternoon and evening. As has been said, leave in the morning if possible. The best weather forecast for the patch of the Strait you'll be crossing is Juan de Fuca Strait East entrance. The NOAA buoy reports for Smith Island will tell you current conditions (see attached web site). Be particularly careful for wind against tide situations as these can really heap up some steep waves. For example a strong westerly against an ebbing tide will make the Strait dangerous. This becomes particularly troublesome around shoaling waters such as Partridge Bank and near Smith Island which you'll pass near on a Port Townsend/ Friday Harbor Course. The other concerning area for wind against tide is at Cattle Pass. A strong ebb against a Westerly will make the pass very lumpy. See your tide tables for time of slack current at Cattle Pass and time your arrival accordingly. With all these caveats, I've crossed the Strait many times in my former boat, a Hunter 335, with no difficulties. Just be smart about when you go. AND, it's a great place to spot the Orcas! Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden S/V Wanderlust H37.5
Hi Steve, Juan de Fuca Strait has a nasty reputation which is richly deserved. But it can be crossed safely with good planning. You've already received some good advice. During the summer, thermal heating over the Washington mainland accelerates the westerlies blowing down the Strait in the afternoon and evening. As has been said, leave in the morning if possible. The best weather forecast for the patch of the Strait you'll be crossing is Juan de Fuca Strait East entrance. The NOAA buoy reports for Smith Island will tell you current conditions (see attached web site). Be particularly careful for wind against tide situations as these can really heap up some steep waves. For example a strong westerly against an ebbing tide will make the Strait dangerous. This becomes particularly troublesome around shoaling waters such as Partridge Bank and near Smith Island which you'll pass near on a Port Townsend/ Friday Harbor Course. The other concerning area for wind against tide is at Cattle Pass. A strong ebb against a Westerly will make the pass very lumpy. See your tide tables for time of slack current at Cattle Pass and time your arrival accordingly. With all these caveats, I've crossed the Strait many times in my former boat, a Hunter 335, with no difficulties. Just be smart about when you go. AND, it's a great place to spot the Orcas! Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden S/V Wanderlust H37.5
Weather weather weather
When we went to the San Juans last year, we followed the advice of crossing early in the morning, thus leaving Port Townsend bound for Friday Harbor in the early morning. There wasn't much wind, but reasonable swell nonetheless. We made straight for Cattle Pass and unfortunately went through the tide rips to get through. It seemed like we were creeping along (GPS had us making ~2 knots during the worst part. It was the return trip that was bad for us. We had left Hunter Bay too late in the day to cross the straight despite the good weather, so we decided to hang out in Watmough Bay at the southeast tip of Lopez Island. It was a nice afternoon, but in the evening it got cold and the wind started to howl right out of the west. It seemed to funnel through the cut at the head of the bay. We spent a near sleepless night constantly checking the anchor set and watching the windspeeds rise to around 35 knots in the anchorage. As the sun rose, the wind seemed to lighten up some to about 15 knots and the tide was ebbing. So we set out onto Rosario Strait bound for Port Townsend. After clearing the point, we realized the wind had *not* really let up. We only had a double reefed main up, but were absolutely flying on a beam reach. After clearing the point, we realized the wind had *not* really let up - I saw the wind speed indicator jump to 30 knots and the waves suddenly became quite steep. I had the wife lock in the companionway boards as green water was breaking over the boat. The combination of a strong ebbing tide coming out of Rosario Strait meeting wind and 30+ knot winds coming from the Strait of Juan De Fuca made for 10-12 foot breaking waves at the mouth of Rosario Strait. The green water was breaking over the boat as I steered so as to avoid burying the bow into the troughs. We made it out by Smith Island when the wife got sick. In order to avoid getting any closer to the quickly approaching lee shore of Whidbey Island I knew I was going to have to point closer to the wind, which would have made the whole experience worse... Instead, I gybed the boat (was was quite an experience in those conditions), let the main all the way out and surfed the waves heading for Deception Pass. This was the only place to duck into that was reasonably close without having to return to Watmough Bay or farther north. The tide was turning as I gybed, so we ran with the tide as we approached Deception Pass. It was ironic, because when we first drove over the bridge several years earlier, I thought to myself, "there's no way I'd ever go through there..." For those that don't know, Deception Pass is extremely narrow and the current is treacherous, often 8+ knots with a rocky bottom that makes the water boil. Anyway, I navigated through it without issue at a new water speed record of something like 14 knots. Every few seconds, the water would grab the boat and start to turn it, requiring immediate rudder response; I never felt anything like it before nor since - it was truly awesome going through there. Once through the pass, the water was as still as could be and we spent the rest of the day motoring down the back side of Whidbey eventually finding a nice comfy berth at Edmonds. Hot showers, some great food at one of the local eateries, and I had the deepest sleep I'd had in years.... The point? Be extremely mindful of the weather, particularly when running across the eastern end of "The Strait." Enjoy! matt
When we went to the San Juans last year, we followed the advice of crossing early in the morning, thus leaving Port Townsend bound for Friday Harbor in the early morning. There wasn't much wind, but reasonable swell nonetheless. We made straight for Cattle Pass and unfortunately went through the tide rips to get through. It seemed like we were creeping along (GPS had us making ~2 knots during the worst part. It was the return trip that was bad for us. We had left Hunter Bay too late in the day to cross the straight despite the good weather, so we decided to hang out in Watmough Bay at the southeast tip of Lopez Island. It was a nice afternoon, but in the evening it got cold and the wind started to howl right out of the west. It seemed to funnel through the cut at the head of the bay. We spent a near sleepless night constantly checking the anchor set and watching the windspeeds rise to around 35 knots in the anchorage. As the sun rose, the wind seemed to lighten up some to about 15 knots and the tide was ebbing. So we set out onto Rosario Strait bound for Port Townsend. After clearing the point, we realized the wind had *not* really let up. We only had a double reefed main up, but were absolutely flying on a beam reach. After clearing the point, we realized the wind had *not* really let up - I saw the wind speed indicator jump to 30 knots and the waves suddenly became quite steep. I had the wife lock in the companionway boards as green water was breaking over the boat. The combination of a strong ebbing tide coming out of Rosario Strait meeting wind and 30+ knot winds coming from the Strait of Juan De Fuca made for 10-12 foot breaking waves at the mouth of Rosario Strait. The green water was breaking over the boat as I steered so as to avoid burying the bow into the troughs. We made it out by Smith Island when the wife got sick. In order to avoid getting any closer to the quickly approaching lee shore of Whidbey Island I knew I was going to have to point closer to the wind, which would have made the whole experience worse... Instead, I gybed the boat (was was quite an experience in those conditions), let the main all the way out and surfed the waves heading for Deception Pass. This was the only place to duck into that was reasonably close without having to return to Watmough Bay or farther north. The tide was turning as I gybed, so we ran with the tide as we approached Deception Pass. It was ironic, because when we first drove over the bridge several years earlier, I thought to myself, "there's no way I'd ever go through there..." For those that don't know, Deception Pass is extremely narrow and the current is treacherous, often 8+ knots with a rocky bottom that makes the water boil. Anyway, I navigated through it without issue at a new water speed record of something like 14 knots. Every few seconds, the water would grab the boat and start to turn it, requiring immediate rudder response; I never felt anything like it before nor since - it was truly awesome going through there. Once through the pass, the water was as still as could be and we spent the rest of the day motoring down the back side of Whidbey eventually finding a nice comfy berth at Edmonds. Hot showers, some great food at one of the local eateries, and I had the deepest sleep I'd had in years.... The point? Be extremely mindful of the weather, particularly when running across the eastern end of "The Strait." Enjoy! matt
Great stories!
Why is it always flat and sunny with no wind when I cross? It's just plain gorgeous. No excitement,, except maybe the mega-tug with a tow crossing courses with me in the fog. Never saw him off Cattle Pass until we were about a hundred feet apart. That's when I saw the tow line. Bought my radar right after that. Did I mention I was single handing my H34? But that was the exception,,,except for,
Why is it always flat and sunny with no wind when I cross? It's just plain gorgeous. No excitement,, except maybe the mega-tug with a tow crossing courses with me in the fog. Never saw him off Cattle Pass until we were about a hundred feet apart. That's when I saw the tow line. Bought my radar right after that. Did I mention I was single handing my H34? But that was the exception,,,except for,
The morning is good
We've never had a problem crossing the Strait. But we always monitor the weather channel on the VHF. If it's forecast to to be more than 10 - 20, we go a different way. We always leave in the morning, even if the forecast doesn't call for wind. Again, we have never had a problem, but we monitor the weather carefully. We have gone around the back side of Whitby Island with gusts of 40, but that isn't a problem as the water there is flat. Going through La Conner takes longer, but we go that way if the weather is not cooperating. Again, listen to the forecasts. They're not perfect, but much better than crossing your fingers.
We've never had a problem crossing the Strait. But we always monitor the weather channel on the VHF. If it's forecast to to be more than 10 - 20, we go a different way. We always leave in the morning, even if the forecast doesn't call for wind. Again, we have never had a problem, but we monitor the weather carefully. We have gone around the back side of Whitby Island with gusts of 40, but that isn't a problem as the water there is flat. Going through La Conner takes longer, but we go that way if the weather is not cooperating. Again, listen to the forecasts. They're not perfect, but much better than crossing your fingers.
Best sail/Worst Sail
Had my best sail... ever leaving John Wayne Marina Port Angeles in May 2000 (SOOKSURE!) Sailed in a 38 foot Rafiki. Broad Reached the entire way into Victoria harbor, never touched the sails once. 10 - 15 knots wind blue skies the thing dreams are made of... Had my worst sail coming across from Victoria (Sooksure) in May 1995(?) in the same cutter rigged boat. Had a terrible hangover. My blue skies and flat windless day changed to a 50 to 60 knot wind in about 15 minutes. With all sails up we just about got knocked down. We took the sails down after a half hearted attempt at reefing and pulling down the head and stay sail. (No roller reefing at the time!) As soon as we took all the sails down and were finally in the cock pit, the engine quit. The wind was howling, the sea was fetching (Westerly wind and an Ebbing tide), the waves were bigger than I cared for and we had no motor. Helmsman was sick, boat owner was sick, me... I'd like to say I was fighting the ship but I was sicker than I'd ever been and scared too. As it turned out we sucked water into the fuel line water seperator. Someone, me, because I was skinny, had to lay across the motor, take the racor apart, drain the water, smell the diesle, throw up on the hot engine manifold, replace the filter, prime the system, smell the burning puke, puke again and skooch my way out of the compartment. The engine started on the first crank. We pulled into Port Townshend promptly showered, ate steak and went to sleep. Truly a beautiful and moody place... Have a blast! Campy C-22 #2226 Windsocket
Had my best sail... ever leaving John Wayne Marina Port Angeles in May 2000 (SOOKSURE!) Sailed in a 38 foot Rafiki. Broad Reached the entire way into Victoria harbor, never touched the sails once. 10 - 15 knots wind blue skies the thing dreams are made of... Had my worst sail coming across from Victoria (Sooksure) in May 1995(?) in the same cutter rigged boat. Had a terrible hangover. My blue skies and flat windless day changed to a 50 to 60 knot wind in about 15 minutes. With all sails up we just about got knocked down. We took the sails down after a half hearted attempt at reefing and pulling down the head and stay sail. (No roller reefing at the time!) As soon as we took all the sails down and were finally in the cock pit, the engine quit. The wind was howling, the sea was fetching (Westerly wind and an Ebbing tide), the waves were bigger than I cared for and we had no motor. Helmsman was sick, boat owner was sick, me... I'd like to say I was fighting the ship but I was sicker than I'd ever been and scared too. As it turned out we sucked water into the fuel line water seperator. Someone, me, because I was skinny, had to lay across the motor, take the racor apart, drain the water, smell the diesle, throw up on the hot engine manifold, replace the filter, prime the system, smell the burning puke, puke again and skooch my way out of the compartment. The engine started on the first crank. We pulled into Port Townshend promptly showered, ate steak and went to sleep. Truly a beautiful and moody place... Have a blast! Campy C-22 #2226 Windsocket
Us chickens
going north go inside and anchor a couple miles inside Deception pass on the north side of the little island that is a park. Then cross over to Lopez(?) pass and through Lopez sound and around to Friday Harbor. The bay to the north of Friday Harbor on Orcas(?) where the UW or the state has the research station, is only 20 minutes out from Friday Harbor and is a nice alternative if Friday Harbor is full. Scott
going north go inside and anchor a couple miles inside Deception pass on the north side of the little island that is a park. Then cross over to Lopez(?) pass and through Lopez sound and around to Friday Harbor. The bay to the north of Friday Harbor on Orcas(?) where the UW or the state has the research station, is only 20 minutes out from Friday Harbor and is a nice alternative if Friday Harbor is full. Scott
Cattle Pass Can Get Exciting
I'v crossed the Strait many times but typically toward Haro Strait. Some crossings have been boreing, some have been a little more exciting. Cattle Pass, on the other hand, has usually fallen into the exciting category. The current in Cattle Pass can cause standing waves and the winds from the Strait of Juan de Fuca can add to it. Add this potential to submerged rocks one has to navigate to avoid and it can easily become a white-knuckle trip. However, it doesn't have to be this way. Plan you trip around the currents - catch an ebb out of Pt Townsend so that about when you're mid-way across it starts to flood and ride the flood north. This is the ideal solution. Have alternative routes planned in the event the weather forcast doesn't turn out as predicted. Avoid the area just north of Smith Island - under certain conditions there are very high and close together waves. The chart shows the location. Don't use Guemes Channel near Anacortes as one of your alternates if conditions are bad. Near Cattle Pass: as has been stated before, be on the lookout for whales (Haro Strait side). If there are some other boats that don't appear to be doing anything they're probably whale watching.
I'v crossed the Strait many times but typically toward Haro Strait. Some crossings have been boreing, some have been a little more exciting. Cattle Pass, on the other hand, has usually fallen into the exciting category. The current in Cattle Pass can cause standing waves and the winds from the Strait of Juan de Fuca can add to it. Add this potential to submerged rocks one has to navigate to avoid and it can easily become a white-knuckle trip. However, it doesn't have to be this way. Plan you trip around the currents - catch an ebb out of Pt Townsend so that about when you're mid-way across it starts to flood and ride the flood north. This is the ideal solution. Have alternative routes planned in the event the weather forcast doesn't turn out as predicted. Avoid the area just north of Smith Island - under certain conditions there are very high and close together waves. The chart shows the location. Don't use Guemes Channel near Anacortes as one of your alternates if conditions are bad. Near Cattle Pass: as has been stated before, be on the lookout for whales (Haro Strait side). If there are some other boats that don't appear to be doing anything they're probably whale watching.
Current, current, current
Get, study, and use a current guide. The Canadian one that uses a yearly published table is best. It can make a huge difference in your trip time. I once made it from Sydney BC to Seattle in 8 hours on a 26 foot sailboat. The currents at the entrance to Admiralty Inlet can be really fast so do not fight them at Point Wilson if you can help it. That area is the worst part of the trip that I have seen.
Get, study, and use a current guide. The Canadian one that uses a yearly published table is best. It can make a huge difference in your trip time. I once made it from Sydney BC to Seattle in 8 hours on a 26 foot sailboat. The currents at the entrance to Admiralty Inlet can be really fast so do not fight them at Point Wilson if you can help it. That area is the worst part of the trip that I have seen.
Swiftsure ??
Maybe you meant "Swiftsure" - classic hardocre race from Victoria out to Swiftsure Bank at the mouth of the Strait of Juan De Fuca, Pacific Ocean and back. Each Memorial Day weekend. See link for all the details on this race.
Maybe you meant "Swiftsure" - classic hardocre race from Victoria out to Swiftsure Bank at the mouth of the Strait of Juan De Fuca, Pacific Ocean and back. Each Memorial Day weekend. See link for all the details on this race.
sooksure
Sooksure is on the same day as Swiftsure, but for smaller boats. They only go to Sooke rather than to the bank and back. Peter
Sooksure is on the same day as Swiftsure, but for smaller boats. They only go to Sooke rather than to the bank and back. Peter
Check out the Waggoner site
Waggoner Cruising Guide has some info about crossing the Strait as well (see the link).
Waggoner Cruising Guide has some info about crossing the Strait as well (see the link).
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