After 10 or 11 years with my Achilles inflatable (which still holds air all season and is functional) I decided to build a wooden sailing dinghy to provide entertainment in anchorages and a good platform for fishing. I chose an Arch Davis design called a Sand Dollar and am just finishing the boat, and rigging. Does anyone have any knowledge of various traditional rigs and sails. I chose a lugsail rig for my version but there are options for a spritsail and a gunter rig. The spritsail eliminates the boom (looks like a Nonsuch), while the gunter rig has the luff laced to the mast gunter yard and boom. The lugsail is laced to the yard and boom only so removal and storage is easier. I'm not sure how it will sail with the luff basically not attached to anything. Any thoughts? The sail and rig spars have been completed at this point but I need to wait out the winter to test it.
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Don Evans
Keeping It Simple
Hi David, your wee tender sounds delightful. I think you choose the right rig. I would not worry about the luff not being attached, as its such a short distance between the tack and the yard. You get a bit more twist in a boomless sail but in a small boat it would be inconsequential. Another benefit is not getting clobbered by the boom and allows you to sit taller in the boat. The lugsail rig also keeps the mast shorter than a bermudian rig, so transport and storage is made simpler. Brings back memories of my Mirror dinghy, which was a traditional gaff rig. Please post a pic for us all to enjoy. Don
Hi David, your wee tender sounds delightful. I think you choose the right rig. I would not worry about the luff not being attached, as its such a short distance between the tack and the yard. You get a bit more twist in a boomless sail but in a small boat it would be inconsequential. Another benefit is not getting clobbered by the boom and allows you to sit taller in the boat. The lugsail rig also keeps the mast shorter than a bermudian rig, so transport and storage is made simpler. Brings back memories of my Mirror dinghy, which was a traditional gaff rig. Please post a pic for us all to enjoy. Don
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David Lewis
Lugsail Rig - thanks Don
Don, Thanks for the response...just a few questions. The "lugsail" rig I am using has a boom. The sail is laced to the boom as well as the yard but it is loose on the luff and the leech. I built the sail myself as well as the spars. They are all done but I am still epoxy coating the wood to waterproof it (using WEST the miracle resin). The luff is only a little over 4 feet long so your point is well made about not too much loss in efficiency. I'm just a little concerned about how well she will point upwind (if at all). I've had a ball building the boat...it is a flat bottom boat about 11 feet long built from marine plywood and is a lapstrake construction. Work left is the rudder and tiller and a final couple coats of epoxy all over (waiting for spring). I also have to bottom paint and paint the topsides (I could leave it just epoxy coated wood but the paint will look better). I plan to hoist the sail this weekend and will post a picture for your enjoyment. Search on arch davis and you should be able to see a picture of the sand dollar on a website.
Don, Thanks for the response...just a few questions. The "lugsail" rig I am using has a boom. The sail is laced to the boom as well as the yard but it is loose on the luff and the leech. I built the sail myself as well as the spars. They are all done but I am still epoxy coating the wood to waterproof it (using WEST the miracle resin). The luff is only a little over 4 feet long so your point is well made about not too much loss in efficiency. I'm just a little concerned about how well she will point upwind (if at all). I've had a ball building the boat...it is a flat bottom boat about 11 feet long built from marine plywood and is a lapstrake construction. Work left is the rudder and tiller and a final couple coats of epoxy all over (waiting for spring). I also have to bottom paint and paint the topsides (I could leave it just epoxy coated wood but the paint will look better). I plan to hoist the sail this weekend and will post a picture for your enjoyment. Search on arch davis and you should be able to see a picture of the sand dollar on a website.
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Don Evans
Sorry... My Mistake
Hi David, what a sweet craft. There is no picture of the rigs for her at the website, but with the mast so far forward I see no reason why she should not go to weather well with a lug. With a boom, sail control should be better controlled, than boomless. I assume the mainsheet is mid boom, and controlled from the centreline? If so this should help reduce twist in the sail. You could also put a simple vang on her, but were adding to her complexity.Theres' still that head bonking bother with a boom in a dinghy. I have a boomed bermudian rig on my dink (Boatex), and the boom has me sitting on the floor, although its a nice place to hunker down in. I think it should be a blast to sail her. Don
Hi David, what a sweet craft. There is no picture of the rigs for her at the website, but with the mast so far forward I see no reason why she should not go to weather well with a lug. With a boom, sail control should be better controlled, than boomless. I assume the mainsheet is mid boom, and controlled from the centreline? If so this should help reduce twist in the sail. You could also put a simple vang on her, but were adding to her complexity.Theres' still that head bonking bother with a boom in a dinghy. I have a boomed bermudian rig on my dink (Boatex), and the boom has me sitting on the floor, although its a nice place to hunker down in. I think it should be a blast to sail her. Don
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David Lewis
Sailing Dinghy News - Don Evans
Don, I had close to zero woodworking experience when I started this project in July/August. I had to build a jig and frames and then build the boat upside down over it, then flip it over and remove the frames and finish her. I am an engineer so it was a great project to practice toolmaking, reading plans, and learning to use assorted tools. The boat is really pretty and sealed with WEST epoxy (2 coats, soon to be 3) it should be as waterproof as GRP except more susceptible to damage from dings and scrapes. The epoxy wets out the wood pretty well so it seals it. Also all joints in the boat are glued with epoxy resin with microfibers or silica for bond joint strength and screwed with stainless fasteners so she is watertight and strong. There are watertight compartments fore and aft for positive flotation. I can't wait to sail her but a lot of the fun was in the construction. I might build another one now that I know how and what mistakes to avoid. Also I have all the tools and the jig and frames which are re-usable. Total cost without my labor, just parts and materials is about 1500.00 but I wasted a lot of wood buying inferior grades when I needed clear boards and didn't realize until later. I have a lot of left over lumber so a second one will be a lot cheaper. The arch davis 14 and 17 are both really nice looking boats but a bit big for towing behind a 35 sailboat.
Don, I had close to zero woodworking experience when I started this project in July/August. I had to build a jig and frames and then build the boat upside down over it, then flip it over and remove the frames and finish her. I am an engineer so it was a great project to practice toolmaking, reading plans, and learning to use assorted tools. The boat is really pretty and sealed with WEST epoxy (2 coats, soon to be 3) it should be as waterproof as GRP except more susceptible to damage from dings and scrapes. The epoxy wets out the wood pretty well so it seals it. Also all joints in the boat are glued with epoxy resin with microfibers or silica for bond joint strength and screwed with stainless fasteners so she is watertight and strong. There are watertight compartments fore and aft for positive flotation. I can't wait to sail her but a lot of the fun was in the construction. I might build another one now that I know how and what mistakes to avoid. Also I have all the tools and the jig and frames which are re-usable. Total cost without my labor, just parts and materials is about 1500.00 but I wasted a lot of wood buying inferior grades when I needed clear boards and didn't realize until later. I have a lot of left over lumber so a second one will be a lot cheaper. The arch davis 14 and 17 are both really nice looking boats but a bit big for towing behind a 35 sailboat.
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Don Evans
I Know The Joy Of Building Your Own
I have built 3 boats in my time. Two Mirrror Dinghys', using the stitch and glue technique, and a 3 point hydroplane, built on a jig, in my more faster days. I will build my next sailing tender, with my sons in a few years to introduce them to the pleasure of boat building. I certainly can understand your joy. I have also a 14' wooden Blue Jay under tarps I may rebuild some day. Take care. Don
I have built 3 boats in my time. Two Mirrror Dinghys', using the stitch and glue technique, and a 3 point hydroplane, built on a jig, in my more faster days. I will build my next sailing tender, with my sons in a few years to introduce them to the pleasure of boat building. I certainly can understand your joy. I have also a 14' wooden Blue Jay under tarps I may rebuild some day. Take care. Don
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