I have a Catalina 30-Mk. II with a standard rig, roller furling headsail, and a 5'3" fin keel. I bought the boat, my first, in 2001. I have three furling Dacron headsails; a 155, 135, and 100. The Dacron main has two reef points. The boat is in good shape for a 1987. I would like to get the views of readers as to the appropriate reefs in my main combined with the selection of the appropriate headsail for various wind speeds. We race JAM for the last three years out of Edgewater Yacht Club in Cleveland from May to October. We sail typically within 5 miles of shore with 4 crew. One of my objectives is to improve my skill in sailing fast yet safe in stong winds. Here is what I do today in the various sustained winds. Any recommended changes or comments on my current practice? 0 - 14 knots No reef in main 155% jib 15 - 19 knots No reef in main 135% jib 20 - 24 knots 1 reef in main 135% jib 25 - 29 knots 1 reef in main 100% jib 30 - 35 knots 2 reefs in main 100% jib
Sail Settings for Wind Speed
- Thread starter Mark Corson
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Buy Don Guilette's Sailing Book
available on this website. Short, to the point and well explained answers to your questions. Other sources are for instance, North Sails, who offer a lot on their website, as well as their sail trim books. BTW, your settings seem right on the money based on your wind speeds. We can carry a full main with a 110 jib up to 25 kts apparent reasonably comfrtably when racing, but reef earlier when cruising.
available on this website. Short, to the point and well explained answers to your questions. Other sources are for instance, North Sails, who offer a lot on their website, as well as their sail trim books. BTW, your settings seem right on the money based on your wind speeds. We can carry a full main with a 110 jib up to 25 kts apparent reasonably comfrtably when racing, but reef earlier when cruising.
Loose the #2 
The #2 (135%) on most boats does not point well for racing. Particularly on boats with single spreader rigs like the C30. The spreader tip prevents sheeting the sail hard enough to point. The #1 (155%) puts the spreader tip away from the leech and into the belly of the sail, so it can be sheeted at a tighter angle. A heavy #1 that will hold it's shape up to 20+ knots apparent and 2 reefs will be faster than a #2 and a full or reefed main. When the boat is overpowered with the heavy #1 and two reefs, change down to the #3 and a full main. C30's love the heavy stuff, you need over 1200 pounds of crew to hold a #1 up to #3 wind speeds. 6 200+ pounders or 7 lightweights is about right. The US Sailing Performance Package polars give 1225 pounds as optimum crew weight for the C30.
The #2 (135%) on most boats does not point well for racing. Particularly on boats with single spreader rigs like the C30. The spreader tip prevents sheeting the sail hard enough to point. The #1 (155%) puts the spreader tip away from the leech and into the belly of the sail, so it can be sheeted at a tighter angle. A heavy #1 that will hold it's shape up to 20+ knots apparent and 2 reefs will be faster than a #2 and a full or reefed main. When the boat is overpowered with the heavy #1 and two reefs, change down to the #3 and a full main. C30's love the heavy stuff, you need over 1200 pounds of crew to hold a #1 up to #3 wind speeds. 6 200+ pounders or 7 lightweights is about right. The US Sailing Performance Package polars give 1225 pounds as optimum crew weight for the C30.
Keep the 135!
My deep draft 28.5 is a lighter boat at 7,000 lbs, but I've found the 135 with full main to be faster than my mylar 155% with reefed main as the wind goes into the twentys. It does not sheet quite as close, but on a masthead rig I'd keep the #2. Now, as the wind goes higher, the 110 / #3 can be sheeted closer for pointing, but bearing off to a reach or run you might want the 135 back up.
My deep draft 28.5 is a lighter boat at 7,000 lbs, but I've found the 135 with full main to be faster than my mylar 155% with reefed main as the wind goes into the twentys. It does not sheet quite as close, but on a masthead rig I'd keep the #2. Now, as the wind goes higher, the 110 / #3 can be sheeted closer for pointing, but bearing off to a reach or run you might want the 135 back up.
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