Safety Tethers, Jacklines, Anchor points

Jun 2, 2014
596
Catalina 30 mkII - 1987 Alamitos Bay Marina, LB, CA
I'm trying to equip myself with the means to solo sail to the island (Catalina) whenever I feel like it since my wife doesn't always want to go. So, my list of safety equipment is as follows: Auto life vest/harness, tether, jacklines, floating handheld radio. I figure those are the basics that I'd feel safe with. I'm not very worried about anything happening, and I've sailed virtually alone (with another person who wouldn't know what to do anyway) many times and I don't plan on sailing in foul weather. But, it's for that just-in-case situation.

Rather than just going to WM and buying a bunch of stuff, I'm trying to learn what to do. I now have a couple of different harnesses and a new auto-vest-harness (Type II rated). As for the auto-vest, I picked this particular one because Type-II is rated to flip most unconcious people over so they don't drown. Some of the other vests are rated Type III only. http://www.pfdma.org/choosing/types.aspx

Then, I went and purchased a couple of clips/shackles at the swap meet, both of the high end rated brands, one quick-release snap type for the harness end like this:

and the other a hook-shackle with rebar lock? (not sure the right description) looks something like this:

So, I've got a quick-release under load clip at the harness, and a dual-action clip at the anchoring end. Then, I just used some 5/16" braided line to make a 6 foot tether.

Now, I need something to attach myself to in the cockpit and some sort of jacklines.
I'm not sure the ones sold at WM are any advantage to me over buying some rated climber's webbing: (30' for under $14 at REI) but they won't have any loops or clips on the ends. Is sewing a loop at the end myself good enough? Or tying it to the bow cleat reliable enough? And will 30' reach from bow cleat to stern or do I need to find something longer, 35 or 40 feet? (assuming I'll need longer)
Then, there's the issue of how to stop the jacklines at the cockpit. I don't have anywhere to tie them in or around the cockpit. I have some padeyes on the deck there but right the edge well outside the stays. I don't think that will work very well unless I use it to tie a horizontal jackline straight across the cockpit (which might be a cool idea).

Then, I was also thinking that maybe a bolt hanger attached to the bolts that hold my stairs in place right under the companionway might be good for a cockpit anchor. What would you think about that?
https://www.amazon.com/Mad-Rock-Sentinal-Bolt-Hangers/dp/B0027Y55ZC

Am I over thinking all this? Or, am I on the right track and just do what works? What does everyone else do on their C30's?

I'm not a fan of drilling holes in my boat.



 
Mar 26, 2011
3,626
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
  • The tether will probably not meet the ISAF drop test requirement, but perhaps that is OK.
  • The rebar hook is for the jackline end, I assume? I'd be afraid of it beating up the gel coat. On a budget, I like aluminum locking biners. Rather bulky and keep it well greased.
  • The bolt hangers are good. I've got 6. Just make sure that it is on a 5/16" min bolt and has a backing plate.
  • The REI webbing is going to be really stretchy under load. The shorter you can keep it the better. It also does not take sun well (you can't leave it rigged).
  • DON'T SEW THE LOOPS. Nylon webbing is very difficult to sew to full strength. The stretch does funny things at high load. (I studied this for a mag article, breaking lots of samples.) Tie overhand loops instead, with long tails. A few stitches to keep the tails from creeping is good. The knots will lower the strength, but the webbing will stretch so much the safety factor is still good.
  • 6' is way to long for a tether on that boat. Additionally, the standard says that single handers need to have a 3' tether option. Tie a loop in the center for tying short, or make a tether with 2 legs. For your boat I would probably go 2.5'/5'. Remember that the effective length of the tether includes the harness sag and jackline stretch.
What you have described is not an off-shore duty system, but it will keep you on the boat under realistic conditions.
There is a bolt hanger hiding under the red webbing (there is a lashing in there too). No new hole required.


Pretty short, and I might go even shorter on this boat. I don't need to be standing, and I have a second, longer leg.


http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2016/06/too-long-tethers.html
 
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Jun 2, 2014
596
Catalina 30 mkII - 1987 Alamitos Bay Marina, LB, CA
Why wouldn't the tether meet the standard? Because it's not shock absorbing? Here's the actual type of hook shackle I got. Not exactly like the one I posted

Is the REI webbing more stretchy than the WM jack lines? Why would that be?
And how to terminate the ends? Sew a loop myself? Sailrite's website doesn't seem to have a problem with people seweing their own jack lines. They recommend 6 zigzags over several inches of overlap.

Good suggestions for the tether lengths.
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,124
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
You don't need to use webbing for jack lines. You can use rope if you're unsure about webbing... with a carabiner type shackle at the front, or just a loop even.. keeping the back open so you can tie to various points and adjust tension. I would suggest terminating the jackline near the cockpit bulkhead and installing a fixed point, surface mounted, folding padeye right in the cockpit sole with a 6 foot tether to let you move around freely. Not sure why you don't want to drill a hole in your boat if it's for safety equipment. I have never had a problem drilling a hole in my boat... no big deal. If you have a short and long, double leash.... 6 and 3 feet for instance.. you can work your way forward by clipping on to strategically located points... rather than a stretchy jackline. If I have to go forward on my C27's small foredeck... I'm crawling on hands and knees, or butt walking... way safer.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,626
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Why wouldn't the tether meet the standard? Because it's not shock absorbing? Here's the actual type of hook shackle I got. Not exactly like the one I posted

Is the REI webbing more stretchy than the WM jack lines? Why would that be?
And how to terminate the ends? Sew a loop myself? Sailrite's website doesn't seem to have a problem with people seweing their own jack lines. They recommend 6 zigzags over several inches of overlap.

Good suggestions for the tether lengths.
It is trickier than you think to get this to work properly. A Safety at Sea test a few years back found that about 1/2 of the commercial products failed. I strongly suggest reading this.
http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/daroot/Offshore/SAS Studies/Safety At Sea Studies.pdf

* Yes, the REI webbing (nylon) has several times more stretch than the WM (polyester) webbing (which is also stronger).
* The hook is good.
* The drop test (100 kg dropped 6') is very severe and through it is possible, 5/16" (nylon might, polyester has no chance) rope weakened with knots or imperfect splices will not survive. You would need 3/8" nylon rope or about 6500 pound nylon webbing with bar tacked ends. 8mm dynamic climbing rope can pass.
* Sailrite is incorrect and I wish they wouldn't suggest it. Several people have tested ends sewn as suggested and they fail well below rated strength. Note that Sailrite does not sell finished tethers anymore (they used to).

http://www.practical-sailor.com/iss...ched-Nylon-Webbing-Strong-Enough_11663-1.html
http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_4/features/5424-1.html
http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_59/features/Jackline-Materials-Evaluation_11853-1.html
http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_59/features/Jackline-Materials-Evaluation_11853-1.html
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/load-testing-results-118009-16.html
(post 234) Note that the Sailrite pattern needed to hold >4500 pounds, but broke at 1100 pounds. Not even respectable.
Re: Load Testing Results

^^ Thanks.

Just to check my instincts . . . I replicated that sailrite pattern (using nylon webbing and V92 thread, as they did). It broke at 1100lbs. I did it in polyester webbing, and it broke at 1230lbs, not sure if that is a significant difference, but does tend to support our theory that the stretch riser in nylon makes the longer patterns less effective.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinwater
Hmmm.

I think more like 1200 pounds. There are only about 25 stiches carrying the load.
Great Guess!!

on polyester webbing . . . i found these guys . . . http://www.countrybrookdesign.com/we...ed-1-inch.html . . . .I think this is the webbing that Wichard is using on their pre-made jacklines. There is not a tensile listed, but I think its 5300lbs (based on some of their other webbing). I have e-mailed to ask.
 
Nov 28, 2009
495
Catalina 30 St. Croix
I would never use rope or wire for jack lines. You might step on it and roll under your foot and off you go. Always flat as required during inspections by safety committees on long distance races such as Chicago - Mac.
Don't try to be a conomical with your life. I use flat webbing purchased on line from Port Supply and I drilled and a installed a very hefty u bolt of the same size as the ones used on the Catalina 30 standing rigging.