I am considering a 245. Info is a little hard to come by. Any help on pro's and cons would help a lot. How does she sail etc
S245 Info
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pro's and con's-245
have had a 245 since 1985. have really enjoyed the boat. i sail in tampa bay which is quite shallow in many areas and being a centerboarder the boat can go where many fixed keels fear to tread. it is a very reactive boat and you have to stay on top of it as she is quite tender, but has all the sail controls you would want. a lead keel on this size boat is also a plus. heads always turn when the boat passes as her lines are beautiful. i have had some blister problems and used interlux barrier coat. almost everyone who has owned a seidelman has found that the backing on the interior has turned to powder and has had to do something about it. i removed mine and just painted the interior. check the chain plates where they attach inside the boat as they often leak and the attachment points can rot if you have a chance to haul the boat examine the centerboard pivot screw. mine had almost corroded through before i replaced it. not vey expensive if you catch it in time, only the cost of a stainless steel bolt. also the outboard motor mount needs to be re-inforced or stern will oilcan deck to hull joint is one of the best. the boat is transportable, but not easily trailerable. let me know if you have any other ?'s paul/
have had a 245 since 1985. have really enjoyed the boat. i sail in tampa bay which is quite shallow in many areas and being a centerboarder the boat can go where many fixed keels fear to tread. it is a very reactive boat and you have to stay on top of it as she is quite tender, but has all the sail controls you would want. a lead keel on this size boat is also a plus. heads always turn when the boat passes as her lines are beautiful. i have had some blister problems and used interlux barrier coat. almost everyone who has owned a seidelman has found that the backing on the interior has turned to powder and has had to do something about it. i removed mine and just painted the interior. check the chain plates where they attach inside the boat as they often leak and the attachment points can rot if you have a chance to haul the boat examine the centerboard pivot screw. mine had almost corroded through before i replaced it. not vey expensive if you catch it in time, only the cost of a stainless steel bolt. also the outboard motor mount needs to be re-inforced or stern will oilcan deck to hull joint is one of the best. the boat is transportable, but not easily trailerable. let me know if you have any other ?'s paul/
Go for it!
Go for it! She is a beauty. I agree with Paul about her lines, that's what attracted me to her, when I saw her I had to have her. The only other thing I would advise is to check the floor for soft spots. One place you can check readily is under the bunks. Look down to where the subfloor(plywood) is glassed to the hull. Check along this area for soft spots/rot. I found this on mine as some repairs were done in the forward "V" berth area earlier. If your handy you can fix her as she is built so well that I considered this only minor. I'll fix mine then cover with new Teak and Holly Sole. A 4X8 sheet will do it and it's available for about $150 a sheet. Let me know if you have any other questions as I just purchased my boat recently. Ron
Go for it! She is a beauty. I agree with Paul about her lines, that's what attracted me to her, when I saw her I had to have her. The only other thing I would advise is to check the floor for soft spots. One place you can check readily is under the bunks. Look down to where the subfloor(plywood) is glassed to the hull. Check along this area for soft spots/rot. I found this on mine as some repairs were done in the forward "V" berth area earlier. If your handy you can fix her as she is built so well that I considered this only minor. I'll fix mine then cover with new Teak and Holly Sole. A 4X8 sheet will do it and it's available for about $150 a sheet. Let me know if you have any other questions as I just purchased my boat recently. Ron
T
terri
interior paint
paul, i read that you removed your interior liner and painted the surface rather than replacing the liner. i too am considering this. what type of paint did you choose and how much prep work was required prior to painting? i have concerns that the paint will not adhere to the previously glued surfaces.
paul, i read that you removed your interior liner and painted the surface rather than replacing the liner. i too am considering this. what type of paint did you choose and how much prep work was required prior to painting? i have concerns that the paint will not adhere to the previously glued surfaces.
headliner glue
sorry to be so slow in responding i have not visited this site for some time. i just sanded the glue down and painted. I am really not satisfied with the job and when i get to Mecca (retire) and have more time i intend to redo the interior. as i remeber i used a white west maine topside paint and it adhered pretty well. paul
sorry to be so slow in responding i have not visited this site for some time. i just sanded the glue down and painted. I am really not satisfied with the job and when i get to Mecca (retire) and have more time i intend to redo the interior. as i remeber i used a white west maine topside paint and it adhered pretty well. paul
Headliner Glue
On our S299, I removed the headliner glue in the V-Berth area with "Goof Off" which comes in a metal container and should be available most anywhere as opposed to "Goo Gone" which didn't work well at all. After saturating the area with product, I was able to scrape off the thickest coatings of glue with a putty knife then go over the area again with the product to clean down to glass. It will take some elbo grease, but you can get the surface completely clean with some effort. I've seen others recommend acetone as also being effective. I sanded the rough spots and painted directly onto the glass with a general purpose high gloss West marine topside paint.
On our S299, I removed the headliner glue in the V-Berth area with "Goof Off" which comes in a metal container and should be available most anywhere as opposed to "Goo Gone" which didn't work well at all. After saturating the area with product, I was able to scrape off the thickest coatings of glue with a putty knife then go over the area again with the product to clean down to glass. It will take some elbo grease, but you can get the surface completely clean with some effort. I've seen others recommend acetone as also being effective. I sanded the rough spots and painted directly onto the glass with a general purpose high gloss West marine topside paint.
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