S2 8.0b Restoration
- Thread starter Wyndpawer
- Start date
You've asked such a broad question, it is difficult to give any guidance.
Perhaps you could start with your biggest or most problematic issue (JUST ONE).
That way you will attract responses from those of us who have tackled
that particular job in the past. Then move on to the next issue, and so on.
No one person on this site knows all the answers to all the problems you may face,
(except maybe Crazy Dave Condon).
Perhaps you could start with your biggest or most problematic issue (JUST ONE).
That way you will attract responses from those of us who have tackled
that particular job in the past. Then move on to the next issue, and so on.
No one person on this site knows all the answers to all the problems you may face,
(except maybe Crazy Dave Condon).
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Ditto on the question being too broad.
If I was going to give advice, it would be to not do anything without asking first. Skills that apply to other projects and restoration don't apply to sailboats. Typically, if you think you know how to do something, you probably don't. One example is, silicone adhesives have almost no place on a boat, for sealing or otherwise. The list goes on and on.
If I was going to give advice, it would be to not do anything without asking first. Skills that apply to other projects and restoration don't apply to sailboats. Typically, if you think you know how to do something, you probably don't. One example is, silicone adhesives have almost no place on a boat, for sealing or otherwise. The list goes on and on.
If you are careful using a manual screwdriver brass screws will work... most of the time.
Drilling a pilot hole will give you a better shot at success the first time.
If the head of one gets stripped, use a smaller flat head screwdriver by hand
to remove them.
If you are countersinking the holes, stainless screws won't appear quite so obvious.
Drilling a pilot hole will give you a better shot at success the first time.
If the head of one gets stripped, use a smaller flat head screwdriver by hand
to remove them.
If you are countersinking the holes, stainless screws won't appear quite so obvious.
I have an S2 8.0C that I restored over a 3 year period. Recommend using stainless steel screws instead of brass screws in case you ever use it on salt water. I had to replace all my brass screws after a few years in salt water, I switched from atomic-4 to yanmar 2 cylinder diesel. Make sure to seal all deck fittings well and check your standing rigging. I love theS2 and have sailed mine to the Bahamas 9 times. I hope you love yours as well. I have done many upgrades over the years and enjoy her more every year. I bought mine in 1985. Fair winds!
Thank you everyone, going to go with stainless because we are going to be in salt water most of time. Here is a little shot of what we have done so far. We don’t have an inboard engine and will be doing an outboard 20hp with long shaft. Any recommendations for motor?
A 20 horse motor is way more than you need . Your displacement hull will only go so fast . An electric start 8 horse 4 stroke is a perfect fit . The weight alone of a 20 horse will easily negate any perceived advantage
As a reference, some of the S2's had an OMC saildrive rated at 15hp. Those engines (or anchors depending on your POV) only came in 15hp
8 hp will push you past hull speed. But, with waves, the prop will come out of the water, maybe get 6 amps battery charge, hanging over the transom after pull starting. You have room for an inboard. If you want a boat to love, add a Beta Marine sail drive, with 40 amps battery charge. Just saying
I would highly recommend an electric start. I didn't realize how much more enjoyable the experience would be until I got a new motor with it. I also find that if your motor dies on the water it'll start up a lot faster with a starter. Could save you from crashing into something