Running rigging on H23

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Bill Lipp

I just purchased a '90 Hunter 23. I have sailed jerry-rigged Islanders and Catalinas in the past, but this is my first better-equipped boat. On my Hunter, there are three lines that come in off of the boom at the mast. Please correct my assumptions here: From the port side, the first one is the topping lift, the second is the outhaul. What's the third one? There are cam cleats on the second and third lines, but not the first (I have to tie it off, else the boom hangs down into the cockpit.) Many eyes toward the back of the boom. Are these for jibe preventers? Thanks for helping out the newbie.
 
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Ray Bowles

Bill, On my 95 H26 the starboard line is the reef

take up line. The first two were as you said. My boom has jam cleats on all 3 lines. Hope this helps. Ray S/V Speedy
 
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Greg S2

Three lines..

1. Topping lift 1:1 2. Outhaul - Has a 3:1 block system internal 3. Reef line 1:1 There should be 3 marginal cleats on the goose neck.
 
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Bill Lipp

What does a reef take-up line do?

Thank you for your answer. I now know that I need to replace the cleat on the topping lift that was apparently there at some point. Next mission: find a place that sells a replacment cleat. I know how to reef a sail, but what does the reef take-up line do? Does it get tied to the clew reef point? Is it a reef outhaul? Not important functionally, but important aestetically: How do you neaten up all of those lines running out of the boom? I know it's a matter of taste and opinion, but I'm interested in how you deal with that.
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Reefing line & spaghetti

The H23 is set up for single line "jiffy reefing". This is a very important adjustment on this boat because of its light weight, generous sail area and powerful mainsail. Here's how to rig the line, assuming you have the Neil Pryde mainsail (stock for the H23): 1) raise the mainsail at the dock 2) take the reefing line from the outboard end of the boom up to the reef cringle (ring) on the leech of the sail. Pull the line through from starboard to port. 3) bring the line straight down to the second cringle, which should be on the foot of the sail just above the boom. Go throught it from port to starboard. 4) There should be a couple of sliding eyes on the underside of the boom. Slide the rearmost eye forward until it's directly under the cringle on the foot of the sail. Pass the line through from starboard to port and tie a stopper knot....that's it. Rigging the line like this pulls the leech down and back simultaneously when you reef the main. This not only holds the clew of the sail down on the boom but also tensions the foot of the sail (outhaul) to help keep the sail flat when reefed. To reef the main, ease the halyard until the cringle on the luff is at the rams horn at the gooseneck. Slip the cringle over the horn. Then tension the reefing line from the gooseneck. You should be able to do it easily if you rigged the line as suggested, because it runs free and doubles the pull at the end of the boom. Then tension the halyard. This should take less than two minutes (hence the "jiffy"). You can then tidy up the folds of sail on the boom before getting back under way. I use a single piece of 1/4-inch line run through all the eyes. It's also a good idea to secure the clew with a separate piece of line once you are reefed, and not rely 100% on the reefing line. If this line breaks, you still have the reefing line as a backup. If the reefing line breaks then not only will you lose the reef but the break will probably be up inside the boom somewhere. If you are sailing under reef, that's not the kind of weather for trying to fish a line out of the boom. One more hint. If the gate in your sail track is open (stock setup) get a Davis sail stop (about $8) to keep the lowermost two slugs in the track below the gate when reefed. Otherwise they will blow out and get in the way. Good luck! Peter H23 "Raven"
 
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Bill Lipp

Now I'm set!

What an awesome tutorial Peter! Thank you for taking the time to write it up! I should be set and ready to go.
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
You're welcome...and now for the spaghetti

The loose ends of the three lines at the gooseneck plus the halyards can make a huge mess of spaghetti if you're not careful. They must be free to run at all times, especially when you have to put a reef in while on the water. The halyards are coiled and hung off their respective cleats on the mast. The three booms lines are coiled and hung on the rams horns, topping lift and outhaul to port and reefing line to starboard. If I go out to the boat this weekend I'll take pictures and post them. Safe sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
 
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Bill L

Thanks Peter

Peter, This has been very helpful to a lot of us. Do you know if Hunter has anything that gives this kind of information on the H23. Thanks. Bill Leathen - bleathen@aol.com
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Yes and no, Bill

Yes, there is an owners manual for the wing-keel H23 (sort of). It covers other Hunters as well, so there isn't a lot of detail. However some items are specific to the H23, like stepping the mast. There's a drawing and less than half a page of text in the manual describing how to reef the mainsail. However, the drawing is not clear and there's no description of how the reefing line is rigged initially. In the very back of the manual (in the Legend 45 section) is a drawing showing the layout, but to an inexperienced owner it might not be obvious. You can rig the line like this on any boat, as long as the reefing line exits at the end of the boom and the sail has cringles in the right places. I'm more than happy to help a new H23 owner learn the finer points (and flaws) of this great little boat. I was once a new owner too, and it wasn't THAT long ago. Happy sailing! Peter H23 "Raven"
 
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