I have an '81 H33 and would like to turn over the engine and make sure everything is ok prior to launch, Can I run the engine when the boat is out of the water? there doesn't seem to be a fitting or something similar where I could hook up a hose for cooling...it has a yanmar 2gm. thanks, greg
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Ken Palmer
Here is how I do it.
I also have a '81 H33 here in Rochester, NY. When I haul in the fall, I disconnect the hose to the water pump on the Yanmar. I then connect 3-foot hose to the water pump, and the other end in a 50-50 mix of anti freeze. I run that through the engine to winterize. In the spring before launch, I use a bucket, set it on the floor in the head, run a water hose from the water system in the yard to the bucket. I place the hose from the water pump in the bucket, start the engine and let it run for a minute, then shut it down. This circulates fresh water though the engine. By the way, the antifreeze I use is the type that is supposed to be environmentally safe. If you had the yard winterize your engine, you could still connect a hose to the water pump and run water through the engine. This would also be a good time to check or replace the impeller on the water pump. That is an easy task by taking off both hoses, two bolts, and taking it right off the engine. Cost of Yanmar impeller and gasket about $12. You could probably also run the engine for a short time without water. Just not too long so that it doesn't overheat. This may not be the best thing for your water pump though. Maybe some others have advice on that. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
I also have a '81 H33 here in Rochester, NY. When I haul in the fall, I disconnect the hose to the water pump on the Yanmar. I then connect 3-foot hose to the water pump, and the other end in a 50-50 mix of anti freeze. I run that through the engine to winterize. In the spring before launch, I use a bucket, set it on the floor in the head, run a water hose from the water system in the yard to the bucket. I place the hose from the water pump in the bucket, start the engine and let it run for a minute, then shut it down. This circulates fresh water though the engine. By the way, the antifreeze I use is the type that is supposed to be environmentally safe. If you had the yard winterize your engine, you could still connect a hose to the water pump and run water through the engine. This would also be a good time to check or replace the impeller on the water pump. That is an easy task by taking off both hoses, two bolts, and taking it right off the engine. Cost of Yanmar impeller and gasket about $12. You could probably also run the engine for a short time without water. Just not too long so that it doesn't overheat. This may not be the best thing for your water pump though. Maybe some others have advice on that. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
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R. Young
Another possibility
If you just want to see if the engine can start, say running if for 10-30 seconds, you can get away with no attachment - Except possible for the impeller in the water pump which you should remove. The engine will not warm up enough in this time (and the existing antifreeze in the heat exchanger is still providing protection anyway - assumming you have the fresh water cooling). The impeller could heat up so it should be removed - any longer then you should provide a substitute source of water - as per previous email
If you just want to see if the engine can start, say running if for 10-30 seconds, you can get away with no attachment - Except possible for the impeller in the water pump which you should remove. The engine will not warm up enough in this time (and the existing antifreeze in the heat exchanger is still providing protection anyway - assumming you have the fresh water cooling). The impeller could heat up so it should be removed - any longer then you should provide a substitute source of water - as per previous email
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Anthony Bavuso
Don't you worry about falling off the stands...
I have thought before of running my engine while the boat was up on stands in the yard before but I was always worred that the vibration of running the thing would cause the boat to fall off it's stands. I have a one lunger so maybe it causes a lot more vibration. But is this a concern?
I have thought before of running my engine while the boat was up on stands in the yard before but I was always worred that the vibration of running the thing would cause the boat to fall off it's stands. I have a one lunger so maybe it causes a lot more vibration. But is this a concern?
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Doug T.
Vibration
Think of the lateral forces that come into play when it's windy. I can't imagine that a vibrating engine would be any worse.
Think of the lateral forces that come into play when it's windy. I can't imagine that a vibrating engine would be any worse.
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Terry Arnold
how not to run on land
Ken palmer's fluid mechanics geometry would pretty much approximate the natural water line intake for the engine. Below is a link about the danger of feeding from an elevation higher, say from the cockpit.
Ken palmer's fluid mechanics geometry would pretty much approximate the natural water line intake for the engine. Below is a link about the danger of feeding from an elevation higher, say from the cockpit.
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Greg Sampson
wow terry....
talk about unlucky...or lucky depending on how you look at it. and tony I am not really worried about vibration, the side stands are chained. thanks for the input guys, Greg
talk about unlucky...or lucky depending on how you look at it. and tony I am not really worried about vibration, the side stands are chained. thanks for the input guys, Greg
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Ed Schenck
Not two impellers?
Almost any post that I read regarding engine cooling mentions a waterpump impeller. But on my 2QM20 there are two impellers, one for the seawater pump and one for the internal cooling. How do you get fresh water cooling with just one impeller?
Almost any post that I read regarding engine cooling mentions a waterpump impeller. But on my 2QM20 there are two impellers, one for the seawater pump and one for the internal cooling. How do you get fresh water cooling with just one impeller?
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Greg Sampson
good question Ed...
maybe I should call a mechanic and ask him what the deal is....will keep you all posted when I hear back.
maybe I should call a mechanic and ask him what the deal is....will keep you all posted when I hear back.
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Bill Murray
two impellers
there are two impellers - but one is pushing the coolant in the "fresh water" cooling system which should be topped off and is a closed system. the other moves the "raw water" (sea water". If you aren't supplying sea water, remove the impeller so it doesn't burn up from running dry. if you are providing a replacement for the sea water, leave the impeller in - you need it to work. Bill Murray S/V Good Faith
there are two impellers - but one is pushing the coolant in the "fresh water" cooling system which should be topped off and is a closed system. the other moves the "raw water" (sea water". If you aren't supplying sea water, remove the impeller so it doesn't burn up from running dry. if you are providing a replacement for the sea water, leave the impeller in - you need it to work. Bill Murray S/V Good Faith
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Mike DiMario
Another Altenative
I use my potable water pump to winterize everything. Including running the engine. I first drain all the water out of the potable system. I then purge antifreeze into all of the potable water lines. Then I fill about 6-7 gallons in the potable water tank. I then take one half of a generic outboard water flusher. It looks something like a pair of earmuffs. It has a suction cup on one end connected 90 degrees to an inlet pipe about 3/8" in diameter on the other end. I hook this up to galley sink faucet. I can then remove the strainer basket and hold the ear muff over the bottom of the strainer inlet. Start the engine. Turn on the water pressure. I actually winterize everthing this way right through the strainer with the exception of the head. I like not having to disturb the hoses and the hose clamps. It works! You can run your engine while on the hard this way using regular water to cool the engine and flush the system. I would be careful though. The supply through potable water system is lesser than the demand of the engine. Common sense and care must be taken. This is NOT for long term running of a large demand engine. If anyone needs a picture of this, let me know. Mike DiMario
I use my potable water pump to winterize everything. Including running the engine. I first drain all the water out of the potable system. I then purge antifreeze into all of the potable water lines. Then I fill about 6-7 gallons in the potable water tank. I then take one half of a generic outboard water flusher. It looks something like a pair of earmuffs. It has a suction cup on one end connected 90 degrees to an inlet pipe about 3/8" in diameter on the other end. I hook this up to galley sink faucet. I can then remove the strainer basket and hold the ear muff over the bottom of the strainer inlet. Start the engine. Turn on the water pressure. I actually winterize everthing this way right through the strainer with the exception of the head. I like not having to disturb the hoses and the hose clamps. It works! You can run your engine while on the hard this way using regular water to cool the engine and flush the system. I would be careful though. The supply through potable water system is lesser than the demand of the engine. Common sense and care must be taken. This is NOT for long term running of a large demand engine. If anyone needs a picture of this, let me know. Mike DiMario
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Bob Camarena
Cutlass Bearing
If you do run your engine on land,in addition to cooling, be careful to only run in neutral. Otherwise, if you put it in gear you will need to lubricate your cutlass bearing with water from a hose.
If you do run your engine on land,in addition to cooling, be careful to only run in neutral. Otherwise, if you put it in gear you will need to lubricate your cutlass bearing with water from a hose.
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