Is there a fix for this? It seems the drain hole in the bottom of the cover lets salt spray in and corrodes the connectors.
or just replace them?
or just replace them?
Running light corrosion
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
If you can take the metal tabs out you might try soaking them over night in muriatic acid. If that works, then coat them In a light coat of lanocote after reassembly.
Dano
Dano
Before trying to resurrect these, I’d carefully inspect the butt connector tabs. If any metal was lost to corrosion, making them pretty again is a waste of time as the electrical connections will surely fail.
I’d replace… and go LED while I’m at it.
By the time you attempt a repair you are already half way to the cost of new ones… and your first attempt at a repair might not do the trick.
Here is a standard 12V
Here are some LED
ibspot.com
By the time you attempt a repair you are already half way to the cost of new ones… and your first attempt at a repair might not do the trick.
Here is a standard 12V
Here are some LED
SEAFLO LED Navigation Light IP67 2NM Visibility Green Starboard Red Port White Stern Mast Steaming Light Choose Style (Green and Red)
Individual Port and Starboard (Red and Green) Navigation Light Combo Visibility: 2NM IP67 Waterproof For boats up to 20m long Voltage: 12V; Power: 1W
New SEALED LED. I spent (wasted) too many hours over the years dealing with those.
I'm all about fixing things, but this is a leap in technology. Every amp you don't draw is one you don't have to generate or store.
I'm all about fixing things, but this is a leap in technology. Every amp you don't draw is one you don't have to generate or store.
To me it really just looks like a lot of surface corrosion. Take the bulb out - you may or may not be able to get the tabs out of the fixture, if you can great, clean them up well. or sure make sure the connectors are intact and can be cleaned up also. Replace that bulb with a LED they make for those. (I know, I know, it's not technically compliant as to be compliant you have to do the whole fixture).
Another observation - those spade connectors don't look like marine grade connectors. Even if you get a new fixture, do you have enough wire to pull through to cut those connectors off and put on good marine grade connectors? If you do, you should do that no matter what you do....
dj
Another observation - those spade connectors don't look like marine grade connectors. Even if you get a new fixture, do you have enough wire to pull through to cut those connectors off and put on good marine grade connectors? If you do, you should do that no matter what you do....
dj
It's not just slapping new fixtures on. The new fixtures have a different attachment footprint. So not only are you spending around $500 for three new sealed LED fixtures, you now have to rebuild the attachment locations in all likelihood as the new fixtures will have a different attachment pattern.
dj
Not sure what you are looking at. That fixture is through bolted onto a stainless plate attached to the rail. Not sure how that plate is attached but likely welded. If only it were as easy as buy new and bolt on...
dj
I just replaced a new, cheap stern light after too many connection issues. To my surprise, the SeaFlo unit was sealed. I would go with a more reputable brand if it's being used aloft though. Don't try to save your old unit. It's not worth it
That hasn't been my experience. I have what looks like the same unit. Both my bow and stern light were not working due to corrosion issues. I went through the process of trying to find replacement units - I couldn't find any unit that was a similar footprint. My stainless steel mounting plates were welded into my bow pulpit. In order to make new units for, I would have had to build and weld in new plates. I rebuilt the internal connections - mine had notably worse corrosion. I pulled out more wire, made new spade connectors and put in LED bulbs.
They have now been running flawlessly for three years and have survived two Atlantic crossing with significant ocean water submersion. If they begin giving me problems again, I'll simply rebuild them again. The work to make new connection plates would be more than I feel needed.
I would also suggest the internal component be sprayed with T9 to minimize future corrosion issues.
I do agree if it were a mast head light, i'd put in a new light rather than fix.
dj
We've had those lights and they are terrible for corrosion. As for the quality of the spade connectors, I think they come pre-wired with those and a black/white wire pigtail. At least the ones that came on two different boats had the same. But it is possible that both installers used the same connectors and black/white pigtails to external ship wire.
Mark
Mark
In your case, I would rebuild. After my experience with connection issues, I'd probably put a dab of solder between the bulb and the electrical connector. I did this with the knock off I just replaced and it worked great until the LED burned out. So far so good with the SeaFlo. It's not as serviceable as others but it's sealed and only costs $15
Geez, these lights are over 30 years old; replace them with new LED version.
I sanded the contacts and sprayed some contact cleaner, installed some festoon type LED bulbs, and they’re working fine. We’ll see how long these last.
The contacts are just a plate with a spade connector stuck into a slot on the housing. Seems these should be easy to swap out if replacements are available. The are the only thing corroding in there..
The contacts are just a plate with a spade connector stuck into a slot on the housing. Seems these should be easy to swap out if replacements are available. The are the only thing corroding in there..