In looking at making my 22 more one handed, I have decided to try to bring the haylards back to the cockpit. I liked how Paul Palmer did it in the photo forum article 'Lines aft on O'Day 25'. After examining my 22 though, I doubt that I could get the lines through the area between the teak slide and handrail the way he has. The way that the 22 I have was rigged, I have a haylard coming down each side of the mast. I was thinking of running them down to the sides of the deck and running them back along side the jib sheets. My question is has anyone tried anything similar? Any ideas? If I start mounting hardware to the deck, how do I go about putting backing plates to the blocks? Looking at some of the items that already are mounted, some come through both sides of the deck and are bolted down inside the cabin. Others have had holes drilled through the cockpit fiberglass and the plywood behind, only having a nut and the fiberglass on the otherside holding them to the deck. Obviously this is a bad system, and is the reason why I'm going to remove the life lines. If I drill through the deck into the cabin, and put a stainless backing plate, what kind of compression should I expect? Would I be better cutting the cabin side out, removing the plywood and putting the backing plate against the topside fiberglass directy? I think that doing it through the entire assembly would be the strongest. How strong does this setup need to be? I have yet to experience this, so my thoughts are still just that! Any suggestions? Thanks, Josh
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John King
cockpit controls
Josh, I did mine last year, and it does make it a little easier to single hand.I attatched cheek blocks, one on each side of the mast, about a foot or so from the bottom,I guess the kind of hardware you use for the rest of the rig would determine exactly where.I mounted bullseye cam cleats on top of the cabin,between the handrails and companionway slider.The halyards just clear the top of the slider when it is open. I just through bolted the hardware with washers underneath. If you were to run the halyards outboard farther , they maynot run true with the shivs at the masthead
Josh, I did mine last year, and it does make it a little easier to single hand.I attatched cheek blocks, one on each side of the mast, about a foot or so from the bottom,I guess the kind of hardware you use for the rest of the rig would determine exactly where.I mounted bullseye cam cleats on top of the cabin,between the handrails and companionway slider.The halyards just clear the top of the slider when it is open. I just through bolted the hardware with washers underneath. If you were to run the halyards outboard farther , they maynot run true with the shivs at the masthead
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Bob McGee
What I did on my 22
Josh, This summer I rigged my halyards back to the cockpit on my O'Day 22. Just below the cleats on the mast, I mounted two cheek blocks on the mast, just slightly forward of abeam. Then, on the cabin top, to each side of the sliding hatch, I mounted two Lewmar rope clutches, set at an angle that catches the halyard shooting straight off the cheek block. I had to fiddle the precise location of both the cheek blocks and rope clutches so that the halyard won't interfere with the sliding hatch opening or closing. My cheek blocks have a curved base with four mounting screw holes (see page 928 of West marine catalogue). I marked the holes on the mast with a pencil, then prestarted the holes with a pick. I drilled slightly smaller than the SS screws I would be using, and then wasted a screw to use as a tap, then mounted the block...sort of amateurish, but aluminum is soft enough that it can be easily tapped. In mounting the rope clutches, I went all the way through the cabin top, used 3M 4200 as a sealant/bedding compound, and backed the bolts with those big sucker SS 1 1/2 inch washers, and used cap nuts to make it look a little better from the inside. Good luck. Bob McGee
Josh, This summer I rigged my halyards back to the cockpit on my O'Day 22. Just below the cleats on the mast, I mounted two cheek blocks on the mast, just slightly forward of abeam. Then, on the cabin top, to each side of the sliding hatch, I mounted two Lewmar rope clutches, set at an angle that catches the halyard shooting straight off the cheek block. I had to fiddle the precise location of both the cheek blocks and rope clutches so that the halyard won't interfere with the sliding hatch opening or closing. My cheek blocks have a curved base with four mounting screw holes (see page 928 of West marine catalogue). I marked the holes on the mast with a pencil, then prestarted the holes with a pick. I drilled slightly smaller than the SS screws I would be using, and then wasted a screw to use as a tap, then mounted the block...sort of amateurish, but aluminum is soft enough that it can be easily tapped. In mounting the rope clutches, I went all the way through the cabin top, used 3M 4200 as a sealant/bedding compound, and backed the bolts with those big sucker SS 1 1/2 inch washers, and used cap nuts to make it look a little better from the inside. Good luck. Bob McGee
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Ben Bishop
Good God!
You are not really considering cutting out your under cabin roof are you? No way is that a good idea. I would be very careful about putting more holes in your cabin top just to make the lines run aft. Every hole up top is a leak waiting to happen, no matter how carefully you bed it. Think 2X !
You are not really considering cutting out your under cabin roof are you? No way is that a good idea. I would be very careful about putting more holes in your cabin top just to make the lines run aft. Every hole up top is a leak waiting to happen, no matter how carefully you bed it. Think 2X !
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Josh
Well no...
...I wasn't actually concidering cutting it out, but that would be the 'proper' way to do things to read it from other articles. The manufacturer mounted the hardware on the underside of the topside fiberglass. Nothing was really through bolted. I'm not talking about cutting a huge hole mind you. I meant removing the cabin side of the deck, remove the stuff inside and bolting the backing plate directly to the underside of the deck fiberglass. The only reason this would be concidered is if there was excessive compression. This method seals better because it flexes less. Of course, holes cut through the cabin liner to get to the outer fiberglass is obviously hideous. This is why I asked if bolting the halyard hardware to the cabintop/deck was something that would be high loaded. Now, if I do as others have, and put cheek blocks on the mast instead, thats two less spots that I have to worry about. Joshua
...I wasn't actually concidering cutting it out, but that would be the 'proper' way to do things to read it from other articles. The manufacturer mounted the hardware on the underside of the topside fiberglass. Nothing was really through bolted. I'm not talking about cutting a huge hole mind you. I meant removing the cabin side of the deck, remove the stuff inside and bolting the backing plate directly to the underside of the deck fiberglass. The only reason this would be concidered is if there was excessive compression. This method seals better because it flexes less. Of course, holes cut through the cabin liner to get to the outer fiberglass is obviously hideous. This is why I asked if bolting the halyard hardware to the cabintop/deck was something that would be high loaded. Now, if I do as others have, and put cheek blocks on the mast instead, thats two less spots that I have to worry about. Joshua
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Josh
Bolting through mast?
Bolting the blocks to the mast is a good idea. What model blocks did you guys use? And I'm thinking, would it be wiser to drill the holes all the way through the mast and use a bolt and nut that passes all the way through? This would create a much stronger bond to the mast. I don't think I'll run into any problems running it outward and back, instead of along the top of the cabin. I want the controls to be consolidated, so I'm going to put double clutchs on each side. Each one will hold a jib sheet and a halyard. Thanks for the mast idea guys! Josh
Bolting the blocks to the mast is a good idea. What model blocks did you guys use? And I'm thinking, would it be wiser to drill the holes all the way through the mast and use a bolt and nut that passes all the way through? This would create a much stronger bond to the mast. I don't think I'll run into any problems running it outward and back, instead of along the top of the cabin. I want the controls to be consolidated, so I'm going to put double clutchs on each side. Each one will hold a jib sheet and a halyard. Thanks for the mast idea guys! Josh
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