removehtml]Hi all, Has anybody experience of fitting running backstays to a B & R rig on a Hunter 376 ?. The mast has in-mast reefing and is manufactured by Seldon, and whilst I could install a backstay it will not improve the performance and would more likely make matters worse. I need to get more tension on the forestay when going to windward and Seldon have suggested I fit running backstays at a point on the mast near to the junction with the forestay. They confirm the mast is strong enough to take the extra loading and have given me details of the mast connection fittings required and the diameter of the stays. In theory running backstays should help to reduce the forestay bend so giving better windward sailing and reduce the inevitable forestay vibration. Has anybody fitted them and has it impoved beating to windward ?. Thanks for any advice. Burleigh Haycock Error: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
Running Backstays
- Thread starter Burleigh
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Better check with Hunter as well as Seldon
I have a 376 bought new in 97 and I've never heard of this. I would double check with the rig folks at Hunter and not just rely on Seldon. It's a strong rig, but.... John
I have a 376 bought new in 97 and I've never heard of this. I would double check with the rig folks at Hunter and not just rely on Seldon. It's a strong rig, but.... John
John Thanks for the advice, I will contact Hunter and see what they say. I will say that the mast used with in-mast reefing is considerably heavier and larger in section to the standard mast so I can see why Seldon say the mast is capable of taking the loads imposed. Seldon also said that the B & R is a compromise with the forestay tension being it's greatest drawback. Thanks again. Burleigh
My Manual
My 376 manual (1996) says to wind up the shrouds until you cannot turn the turnbuckles any more without using an extension on a standard spanner (wrench). I did just this and the performance improved markedly. I now only get about 6" sag in the forestay which is normal even for boats with fixed or running backstays. I measured the tension in the rigging wires and it was still within limits (less than 20% of BS). Hasn't fallen down - yet! Of course the whole rig needs to be correctly tensioned but the only thing I needed to do was to increase the tension in the caps, intermediates and lowers, all of which were at deck level. i.e. the upper and lower diamonds were correctly set up already.
My 376 manual (1996) says to wind up the shrouds until you cannot turn the turnbuckles any more without using an extension on a standard spanner (wrench). I did just this and the performance improved markedly. I now only get about 6" sag in the forestay which is normal even for boats with fixed or running backstays. I measured the tension in the rigging wires and it was still within limits (less than 20% of BS). Hasn't fallen down - yet! Of course the whole rig needs to be correctly tensioned but the only thing I needed to do was to increase the tension in the caps, intermediates and lowers, all of which were at deck level. i.e. the upper and lower diamonds were correctly set up already.
Mast Head Rig
Fred I agree with you that for cruising a standard mast head rig is best. I have already considered re-rigging the forestay so that it goes to the mast head and adding a back stay. What I do not understand is why Hunter fit a fractional rig with a B&R system and in-mast reefing. For in-mast reefing the mast must be straight or as Hunter say with no more than 1" bend (Seldon say they would accept up to 50mm (2")). This in my opinion is not possible with a fractional rig, in-mast reefing and no backstay. When I purchased the yacht in 2003 the mast had at least 4" of bend and I insisted this was reduced to 1" as advised by Hunter, but to do this I am sure the tension in the caps was reduced. Donalex is correct, increasing the tension in the caps would reduce the bend in the forestay but at the same time increase the mast bend which is bad for in-mast reefing. My preference would be to have a mast head rig with conventional sails and lazy jacks but at the same time I do like the ease of in mast reefing but I would also like to go to windward more efficiently, especially in the higher wind range. That's the compromise !!! Burleigh Haycock
Fred I agree with you that for cruising a standard mast head rig is best. I have already considered re-rigging the forestay so that it goes to the mast head and adding a back stay. What I do not understand is why Hunter fit a fractional rig with a B&R system and in-mast reefing. For in-mast reefing the mast must be straight or as Hunter say with no more than 1" bend (Seldon say they would accept up to 50mm (2")). This in my opinion is not possible with a fractional rig, in-mast reefing and no backstay. When I purchased the yacht in 2003 the mast had at least 4" of bend and I insisted this was reduced to 1" as advised by Hunter, but to do this I am sure the tension in the caps was reduced. Donalex is correct, increasing the tension in the caps would reduce the bend in the forestay but at the same time increase the mast bend which is bad for in-mast reefing. My preference would be to have a mast head rig with conventional sails and lazy jacks but at the same time I do like the ease of in mast reefing but I would also like to go to windward more efficiently, especially in the higher wind range. That's the compromise !!! Burleigh Haycock
Burleigh
Increasing cap shroud tension as Donalex suggests will increase your forestay tension and bend the mast. Increasing the tension in the intermediates will pull that bend back out again. I would suggest tensioning the cap shrouds to their max (25% BS) and then tightening the inters to pull back most of the induced bend. This will give you the upwind performance increase that you are looking for without adding any more gear.
Increasing cap shroud tension as Donalex suggests will increase your forestay tension and bend the mast. Increasing the tension in the intermediates will pull that bend back out again. I would suggest tensioning the cap shrouds to their max (25% BS) and then tightening the inters to pull back most of the induced bend. This will give you the upwind performance increase that you are looking for without adding any more gear.
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