Run halyards to cockpit
- Thread starter Cuna Mara
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Hi, I'm not sure if my 23 is similar to the 25, but I led both main and jib aft by first installing a longer mounting aft pin at the base of the mast and putting a block on each end off this extended pin. Then a double cheek block about 2 feet starboard of the mast base, and finally a double stopper or rope clutch and the original mast winch on the starboard cabin top. You can see this in front of the dog in my avatar. I installed aluminum backing plates inside the cabin for everything. It sure is convenient having the lines led aft.
Good luck,
-Chris
Good luck,
-Chris
Hi Gordon, happy 4th! I ran down to the dock just now, and took some pics. They are in my album, but I've attached one here also. The H23 mast is mounted with two 3/8 inch stainless pins (not sure if the H25 is the same).
I cut some 3/8 stainless rod an inch or two longer so they stuck out far enough to attach the blocks on each side. I had to drill and cotter pin the rod, of course. If memory serves, I loosened the stays, and just tapped the new pins in. The rest is self explanatory from my album.
Also shown is bringing more lines aft: regular outhaul, reefing outhaul, and topping lift. The last pic is one of my cabin light with the cover off showing my LED lighting. Big battery saver if you have a late night reader aboard!
Give me a shout if you have more questions.
-Chris
I cut some 3/8 stainless rod an inch or two longer so they stuck out far enough to attach the blocks on each side. I had to drill and cotter pin the rod, of course. If memory serves, I loosened the stays, and just tapped the new pins in. The rest is self explanatory from my album.
Also shown is bringing more lines aft: regular outhaul, reefing outhaul, and topping lift. The last pic is one of my cabin light with the cover off showing my LED lighting. Big battery saver if you have a late night reader aboard!
Give me a shout if you have more questions.
-Chris
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Nice job, Chris. Note that some H23's don't have the same mast deck fitting as yours. Mine has no pin forward of the mast. It is a cast aluminum piece, and a matching fitting riveted to the mast, that only has a hinge pin on the aft side. Mine does have holes along each side of the deck fitting, so these could be used to shackle the blocks.
This has been a good read because I'm interested in running all my controls to the cockpit as well. This will be my first big modification after all the repairs are done. I've never had to put on a handle and use the winch for my halyards or the jib sheets. Am I doing something wrong?
Hi Sixgun, I have the H23, not the H25, and am not an expert, but I think the answer to your question is: it depends. If the winds are light to moderate, your sail is naturally flat, and you are a strong guy, then you may not need to winch the halyards. The same would apply to the jib sheet, especially if you are not pointing too high into the wind. Others may want to correct me here.
Leading any lines aft just makes life a little easier. I use the topping lift (led aft) quite a bit if the winds are very light when racing (note: racing is when two boats with males aboard are heading in the same direction). I can get a nice twist in the main, and keep those upper leech tell tales streaming.
-Chris
Leading any lines aft just makes life a little easier. I use the topping lift (led aft) quite a bit if the winds are very light when racing (note: racing is when two boats with males aboard are heading in the same direction). I can get a nice twist in the main, and keep those upper leech tell tales streaming.
-Chris
I am not sure which 25 it is depending on the year. You can always add gear to the deck to run lines aft to the cockpit. There are a few notes. On the newer boats, Hunter added aluminum backing plates in the deck. If you are not sure and plan to put hardware on the deck, always drill with a small drill bit always. Why? If you see metal coming out, then you have hit an area where the aluminum backing plates are. All you do is drill and tap at that point. Hunter 25 older versions did not have that.
If drilling thru the deck, do a pilot hole first making sure you are clearing everything screwed onto the ceiling inside of course. If the deck and inner liner has space between the two, you will need to fill that area so when tightening down, you will not indent the deck and interior ceiling. An easy way is to inject expansion foam first. Do make sure you caulk liberally.
Another is a stainless steel or aluminum tube inserted inside thru the ceiling butting against the underside of the deck, run a bolt thru the tube putting a washer at the end and tightening down. Make sure the tube is flush with the ceiling where the bolt protrudes thru. On the bottom of the bolt of after bolted into place and I forget the name of the end cap style nut that goes on to cover the end of the bolt, put it on as it is safer to do so.
I hope this helps.
crazy dave
If drilling thru the deck, do a pilot hole first making sure you are clearing everything screwed onto the ceiling inside of course. If the deck and inner liner has space between the two, you will need to fill that area so when tightening down, you will not indent the deck and interior ceiling. An easy way is to inject expansion foam first. Do make sure you caulk liberally.
Another is a stainless steel or aluminum tube inserted inside thru the ceiling butting against the underside of the deck, run a bolt thru the tube putting a washer at the end and tightening down. Make sure the tube is flush with the ceiling where the bolt protrudes thru. On the bottom of the bolt of after bolted into place and I forget the name of the end cap style nut that goes on to cover the end of the bolt, put it on as it is safer to do so.
I hope this helps.
crazy dave
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