Inspection of rudder on the Paceship shows the upper section of wood should be replaced before the next time out. What type of wood would be suggested? Thickness approx. 1 7/16" size before cutting angles would be approx 20" x 12" I was considering ash, or Mahogony. But, I thought it best to ask the general sailing experts first. I even considered some sort of man made material, but not sure what to look for.
rudder wood?
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Ash or Mahogany are both good choices.
Mahogany would be a little easier to work with in terms of shaping and cutting. You will not find any dimension lumber finished to 1 7/16" x 12" x 20" so you will have to laminate several pieces together (clamp, glue and screw using marine epoxy) to get close to the size you stated. You did not state which Paceship model you have (nor does your profile). I found this rudder diagram at the Paceship.org website http://www.paceship.org/parts-info/p23_rudder_dimensions.asp Good luck with this project.
Mahogany would be a little easier to work with in terms of shaping and cutting. You will not find any dimension lumber finished to 1 7/16" x 12" x 20" so you will have to laminate several pieces together (clamp, glue and screw using marine epoxy) to get close to the size you stated. You did not state which Paceship model you have (nor does your profile). I found this rudder diagram at the Paceship.org website http://www.paceship.org/parts-info/p23_rudder_dimensions.asp Good luck with this project.
If your wood is a bit thicker than you need,
it may be easier to chisel or use a router to make a slot that fits the rudder fittings than to plane the whole board. Gives a nice look, too. You may (probably the fittings allow plenty of clearance) also need to bevel the forward edges of the rudder so it won't hit the transom. Consider high quality plywood. MUST BE BS 1088! Bryunzeel, Okume, and Maranti are names to look for. "Marine Plywood" made in the US or Canada is full of holes and voids and made of inferior laminates. 2 layers of 3/4 will give you 1/16 over, or 1/32 per side. Pretty easy to take that much off just where the fittings land, or they may fit 1 1/2 in. with no trouble. The good plywood is very stable and durable. Easy to work with. Expect to pay around $100 for a sheet of 3/4" (12mm)
it may be easier to chisel or use a router to make a slot that fits the rudder fittings than to plane the whole board. Gives a nice look, too. You may (probably the fittings allow plenty of clearance) also need to bevel the forward edges of the rudder so it won't hit the transom. Consider high quality plywood. MUST BE BS 1088! Bryunzeel, Okume, and Maranti are names to look for. "Marine Plywood" made in the US or Canada is full of holes and voids and made of inferior laminates. 2 layers of 3/4 will give you 1/16 over, or 1/32 per side. Pretty easy to take that much off just where the fittings land, or they may fit 1 1/2 in. with no trouble. The good plywood is very stable and durable. Easy to work with. Expect to pay around $100 for a sheet of 3/4" (12mm)
Ross is correct (as usual)
So called 2" dimension lumber is actually 1 1/2" thick but getting a 12" wide piece will be a challenge. My personal preference would be to use 1" lumber (which is actually 3/4") say 1" x 8" and laminate 4 20" pieces together to get the stock you need to work with. Why? I believe that the laminated pieces will be as strong or stronger than a full piece of wood - think Butcher block. If you stagger (offset) the middle seams about an inch that would also help provide strength to the joint. Clamp it really tight until each seam dries. Jed Clampet
So called 2" dimension lumber is actually 1 1/2" thick but getting a 12" wide piece will be a challenge. My personal preference would be to use 1" lumber (which is actually 3/4") say 1" x 8" and laminate 4 20" pieces together to get the stock you need to work with. Why? I believe that the laminated pieces will be as strong or stronger than a full piece of wood - think Butcher block. If you stagger (offset) the middle seams about an inch that would also help provide strength to the joint. Clamp it really tight until each seam dries. Jed Clampet
Plywood won't warp and you don't have to glue it
except the two thicknesses together. Even without glue, the rudder fastenings plus a couple of screws top and bottom will hold it together.
except the two thicknesses together. Even without glue, the rudder fastenings plus a couple of screws top and bottom will hold it together.
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